Dozer vs. Grader blades

[Brent_Baumer 5]

Since I have been unable to locate a "cheap" belly grader blade in the area, I have been looking at fabricating a hitch for mounting the moldboard portion of my front mounted snowblade on the rear since it can be removed with only 2 pins, and have a few questions. First, while I think the 42" snowblade is great for pushing snow, it doesn't work well to for leveling a pile of dirt or gravel unless it is small and you can lower the blade in front of the pile and drive backwards. I have the most trouble from the blade digging down into the ground causing me to come to a stop. Am I doing something wrong or is this just the nature of a front blade? If I mount this blade on the rear and pull it instead of push it, will I get the same "digging" effect? I have never used a rear blade on any kind of tractor so I don't want to go much futher, let alone finish this project only to find out it doesn't work any better. Finally, is a belly grader really the only option leveling mole hills, gravel driveways etc? Thanks, Brent

[powermax_paul 1]

Brent, I think you'll find that while its easier to level with a rear blade than a front blade, you still have the dig-in problem. If you have a good continuous adjustment on your rear lift, like a hydraulic 3pt hitch, that makes it easier. Larger tractors (bigger than a powermax) have a "draft" adjustment that regulates the weight or downpressure of the rear hitch. That makes leveling much easier. You still have the problem where if the front of the tractor goes down hill, the rear blade goes up. For that reason, a mid mount blade is the nicest. If anyone out there has put draft on a Powermax 3PH, I'd like to see it though. It would be a nice addition. Paul

[Woodydel 0]

Brent, If you really watch a dozer operator closely as I have, you'll notice the constant adjustments they make as they grade off. Newer machine have automatic controls but for longer than that men have made these small continuous adjustments manually. The hand actuated lever should be regulated continuously without the use of detents. Not easy to do but it will produce a better job. Also slowdown while you are grading. Throttle back and stay in low gear....You'll see the same constant adjustments being made with a road grader.. Woody[A href='http://www.simpletractors.com/attachments/earthcavator.htm']http://www.simpletractors.com/attachments/earthcavator.htm[/a]

[JimDk 1]

Brent,I hope I can answer a couple of your questions.To keep a level grade,your cutting edge must be held solid at the same grade level as all four of your tires.It does not matter if you are pushing or pulling it.With a wheelbase as short as a lawn tractor this is a real challenge.If you have a hyd.lift you have a little better control.You will probably have the most success by patiently knocking off the high spots going foreward then backdragging in float position to finish.I long for my old H3 AC dozer every time I try to move dirt with my B112 or my utility tractor with the back blade. Jim

[Brent_Baumer 5]

Woody, I think finding one of those would be about as easy as finding a post hole auger attachment - not very. A friend of mine says he has a belly blade on a Case tractor with hydraulic lift. He claims it is unbelievable how well a belly blade works compared to a dozer blade for leveling dirt. I was hoping to get the front blade that is now on ebay, turn the hitch 180 degrees and cut the moldboard down enough to fit under the tractor but $40 was as much as I wanted to spend on something I may destroy in the process and am no longer high bidder. Maybe I'll try "sniping". Brent

[Putter 0]

I was just about to rib you about counting your chickens before they hatch. I was going to bid on the same item. But was waiting to see if I could arrange for transport to Calgary. Seems I may be able to pull it off. What's everyone's best guess for final price? Haven't spent much time on e-bay, but was interested in the sniping discussion also.[A href='http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1324197396']http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1324197396[/a]

[PatRarick 1]

I made a grader blade for my tractors, and it was easy and inexpensive. After viewing several pictures of an original Simplicity grader, I built a copy of the front hitch for the 42" snowplow, minus the lift arm. It cost about $8 for the new steel to make it. I purchased an 8" section of grader blade edge from my local Caterpillar dealer, and cut this into two four foot sections, so I made two graders. The blade was about $18. It was by trial and error that I reached the correct tilt for the blade. Follow the link to the drawing of the grader blade on the home page. The iron, #5, should be angled back at the bottom, by 1/2" from the top. I'm not real good at explaining "how to's" but if you e-mail me with your address, I can send you some drawings. Pat [A href='http://www.simpletractors.com/parts/grader_blade_line.htm']http://www.simpletractors.com/parts/grader_blade_line.htm[/a]

[Brent_Baumer 5]

Putter, the going rate for those blades around here is $100-$125, and usually not nearly as rusty as that one is. If I did not already have a 42" blade, I'd probably give $80-$100 for that one. For making it into a belly blade, $40 was all I was going to bid. I'll not be sniping either - unless I can get it for $42 (last I looked it was at $41). Pat, I agree the hitch would be easy to copy I just don't have a source for the blade (or at least an inexpensive one). BTW, do they work well? Brent

[Putter 0]

From the picture I have seen here it seems the magic of a belly blade would be that you can control it with your feet. That seems like a really easy way to make quick adjustments for left and right angles. Brent I was also looking around where I live and found the guy who drives a grader for the county, he is selling used grader blades cheap. Would this be another way to get your belly blade project started?

[PatRarick 1]

It works like a dream. The Caterpillar blade is almost four times heavier than the Simplicity moldboard, and the weight seems perfect. My home is bordered on three sides by a wooded stream. Dutch elm disease killed nearly all the elm trees, leaving Oak, Ash, and Boxelder. After clearing out the dead elms, I worked the ground with the moldboard plow, tilled it, then leveled it with the grader. It is smooth as a baby's bottom. I planted it, harrowed the seed in, and it will be ready to mow this summer. I couldn't believe that no hand work was required, other than to rake a ridge around each tree. Incidently, you should be able to pick up a blade at any constuction equipment dealer. Pat

[Tuffy 1]

I have a grader blade for sale and I can deliver. steve

[MPH 12]

Brent, a local county or state road camp should be a good place to scronge a used chunk of blade, with a smile remind 'em your a tax payer. the hitch off a front dozer blade is the same if you find one cheap and just cut off the lift arm. Just checked the angle Pat spoke of being half inch forward at the top on my newly painted one and seems real close..On a rear blade I think gauge wheels would help to level thinks nice but I haven't spent any time figuring out a system yet..MPH

[ka9bxg 3]

My Dad made one of those blades in the early sixtys we used it a lot.Got the blade from the County Hyway Dept.They use a lot of them in the winter and if you know the right people you get them for free or a six pack of beer.Up here a beer is considered trading stock.Bob

[StinKy 0]

I frame mounted a Jacobsen trip angle blade to get away from the front axle dictating where the blade goes as the tractor passes over less than even ground. It probably isnt perfect but seems to do a decent job at leveling and as a bonus keeps the wear and tear of pushing away from the front axle Dick

[Kent 436]

I'd love to have a rear blade that I could put down pressure on, both for pulling snow away from the house and barn, but also spreading dirt. All the ones I've seen use the sleeve hitch and you can only lift them.... Even better would be the capability to reverse it and use it for back-filling. Then, if it had adjustable pitch, you could both scrape (cut) and grade (spread) with it. If you've ever noticed a road grader, in addition to angling the blade, they could adjust the pitch on the blade also.... One of the the many reasons I put a "modern" rearend in my B-210 is that I won't give up my hydraulic downpressure... IMO, that one feature dramatically increases the usefulness of these little tractors. That is the first thing I've looked for on a tractor... my Big Ten, B-210 and "Big Ten in waiting" all have hydraulic lift. A 2000 model Sovereign might offer power steering and cruise control -- but not hydraulic downpressure.... BTW, one neat use of a belly blade I saw in some Simplicity or Allis documentation (can't remember which) was to use a belly blade while blowing snow. It scrapes down to clear pavement, cleans up anything you've missed or that dribbled out the side of the input chute, and puts in right up against the uncut snow so you can get it on the next pass. Of course, that requires the elusive right lift lever to have two implements mounted at once....

[Kent 436]

Brent, Woody gave you good advice. Go sloooow, and keep adjusting the blade. The goal is to shave the high spots into the low spots. If the blade just follows the contour of the ground, nothing will be accomplished. Garden tractors just don't have the weight or power to do grading with compacted material. Loosen the compacted material first with a scarifier or even a tiller. Another trick is to find a starting point of the proposed finished grade. Adjust and lock the blade at that height. Pile up material in front of the blade. Weight the blade or hitch so the blade doesn't ride up the material you're pushing. I use my 7010 6 speed. In low-low, the tractor goes slow enough that I can get off and walk in front shoveling more material in front of the blade as needed.

[Kent 436]

Woody, have you used your Brinly box scraper much? The paint looks fresh. How do you like it? I've been thinking of buying one...

[Woodydel 0]

Brent, Here is another way to go. Buy one of the Brinly box scrapers. Notice the bars out back. That is where the cement blocks lay with a bolt and clamp to hold in place. Notice the scarifiers to break up the hard dirt. They come out with one pin. The box collects up the extra dirt or whatever and deposits the contents in the low spots. The sides of the box come off easy too. Again, as Dutch reiterated go slow and work that lever without detents if possible. I got this one in an open box, brand new at Home Depot for $75.00. Painted it to match my usual tractor colors on the Cub Cadets. Here's another reason to get Brinly. They will replace ANYTHING that makes you unhappy on your word alone. I've done it (without cheating them either)..Woody http://image.photoloft.com/opx-bin/OpxFIDISA.dll?src=/PhotoLoft/Asset18/2002/01/23/8870/8870779_0_3248.fpx,0,0,1,1,512,384,FFFFFF

[Woodydel 0]

I use it and believe it or not repaint it before putting it away every time. Of course, I don't use it everyday. It is well built and will not bend. It is heavy enough not to use the blocks but with the blocks you can just let it float and use the lift to limit how far it will drop. Woody

[Woodydel 0]

As far as downforce the link to the Earthcavator shows it is attached to the lift with a bar which allows downforce to be placed on the attachment. If you put a slot at the top instead of a hole say about one inch long you will have built in float capability with the bar. Woody

[Brent_Baumer 5]

Thanks to all for the input. I hope to put all this advice to use soon. Brent

[MPH 12]

Herb, I wonder why new tractors shut-off when you get off the seat??When I first got the 112 going in low gear, lowest speed range I got off, drove a stake in front of it and got back on to watch it go by...MPH

[MPH 12]

Marty, I guess the seat switch is to prevent ol' timers from getting off, forgetting what they were doing, and wandering aimlessly away. Young guys may be scared to death by the "safety police". Wonder when we'll have to wear this to go to the beach with all that sand.

[arnoldir 0]

Hello All, I have the 42" spring trip blade for my 6216 and have used it to cut and grade many yards of dirt and also used it to do 9 yards of medium bluestone on my driveway. If the dlade is set straight across is is very hard to control the depth and to pull material off a large pile. If I angle the blade it works much better, especially trying to cut material out of a pile that's 3 feet high. I remove the depth skids for all but snow plowing, and run backwards with the blade set straight for the final "Float". I also hve one of the Brinley Box Scrapers adapted to my Model V Walker and it works fantastick. I'm tempted to fab up a mid mount for the 6216 but the Walker has done all I have asked it to.