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Installing a hitch and tiller on a B-212

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Hi, I recently dragged my dad's Allis B-212 out of his garage and over to my place to put it back in service. He bought it new in the early 70s, but it just came with a mower deck. We recently bought a tiller and hitch for it. I need some advice on getting the hitch installed.

16551164211_613594256e_o.jpg

The hitch and rod installed pretty easily. I just fed the rod under the seat through the middle (to the left of the shifter).

16365395360_e8da3fa706_o.jpg

Upfront the rod seems to attach okay. But I notice if I use the full swing of the lift arm the rod will bind. Otherwise I can't move the lift arm all the way forward and lock it. Any advice? Thanks

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B112_son

If I had to guess I'd say your lift rod is too short. From the connection point in your last pic to the back of tractor. Do you know what the rear lift and rod came off of? Your B212 has a longer wheel base than say a B110, B10 etc. with a strait 3 speed.

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B112_son

I also just noticed the pulley that appears to be close to the bottom of the hitch. Looks like something maybe the previous owner added. I've got the same tiller on my B112 which pretty much the same as your B212

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structures

Thanks. The rod seems to be a good length. Sorry I should have been more clear. See the pics below. When the lift is fully up and locked the rod appears to bind against the gear box. When it's down it's fine. Just curious if that's normal?

15936337413_541a4f8ab9_c.jpg

16370237399_b47f944e5c_c.jpg

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B112_son

Is your rod straight through? I want to say mine has some bends in it to go around the obstructions but it's been a while since I had it apart. I can try for pics tonight but I'm sure someone else will jump here with help

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gwiseman

If you've adjusted the turnbuckle and still cannot get correct movement you likely have the wrong lift rod.A B-212 requires a longer lift rod than say a B10 or B110 because of frame/side plate length. Check the length of the lift rod and we can verify. Also, in your last picture the fiber disc looks like its been stressed; you might want to replace it before it self destructs.

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structures
Originally posted by B112_son

Is your rod straight through? I want to say mine has some bends in it to go around the obstructions but it's been a while since I had it apart. I can try for pics tonight but I'm sure someone else will jump here with help

id="quote">I'm pretty sure the length is fine. I get plenty of movement up and down at the hitch, it's just that the rod comes down too far when the lift lever is fully forward. This evening I should be able to measure it and report back.Where would you buy parts like the fiber disk for this tractor?
quote:Originally posted by rokon2813

I would also get all the bolts back in that bgb or your going to have more problems.That bolt working out is likely what ate up the fiber disc.


id="quote">
id="quote">Thanks. I did find a mystery bolt in there as I was vacuuming out rats nests...

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rokon2813

I would just put a slight bow in that rod and use it if it is long enough.

i think if you had the shorter rod, it would either not hook up, or would have no travel.

As for disks, I thought they were still available new, but parts tree is showing them NLA. Might check with your local dealer if you want new ones.

Or one of the site sponsors. Brenda at Sandy Lake Implement would give you good service.

You can find them used on ebay.

There are several members here that offer used parts, myself included.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/11751-Allis-Chalmers-Simplicity-fiberglass-flex-disks-plate-/181665144469?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

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PhanDad

Here's some pics of lift rods I collected for the application. I needed them to figure out the messed up lift rod on a HB-112 I bought to salvage parts to convert my B-110 to a HB-110.

3012 Rear Lift Rod.jpg

3012 Rear Lift Rod Installed on 3212Ha.jpg

I also think the clevis end goes between the two rocker arm tabs with a pin that uses a cotter pin in each end of the pin. Not 100% certain on this and I don't have any pics of my install.

57e0612ce81e8_3012RearLiftRod.jpg.3995afe4ead70943411e3cd28d98f54b.jpg

57e0612d042a9_3012RearLiftRodInstalledon3212Ha.jpg.2784cf387de1b9f90690c9a0a528e2af.jpg

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structures

Guys, The rod is 37.75 inches long from hook to thread tip (not including clevis). I was thinking of either a joggle 12 inches in or maybe just an angle. If anybody has something similar they can show me. I'd appreciate it.

Also got that bolt back into the gear box.

16570992785_b09bd03830_c.jpg

16570652655_0bfce33674_c.jpg

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Kent
quote:Originally posted by PhanDad

I also think the clevis end goes between the two rocker arm tabs with a pin that uses a cotter pin in each end of the pin. Not 100% certain on this and I don't have any pics of my install.


id="quote">
id="quote">I agree. Moving the clevis between the arms, or to the outside arm should reduce the dragging on the BGB. On hydrolift tractors the lift cylinder attaches to the inside arm and the lift rod attaches to the outside arm, and one long pin goes through the whole shebang...

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Kent

They didn't come with a solid rod, but they will certainly work. I got tired of bending the solid 1/2" rods on my HB-216 tilling my rocky Mass garden and had John Scheele make me a hardened 9/16" rod.Here's a pic from my story about converting it to a Sundstand.

trial_fit.jpg

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structures

Guys appreciate your input. I ended up putting a slight bend in the shaft. It appears to not be binding on anything when fully forward and backwards now. In the 2nd picture I have the tiller jacked up to full height.

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I see what you are saying about moving the clevis over. For the heck of it I bought a hydro lift and the mounting bracket is more in line with the middle arm.

15960388893_0a92a9b89f_c.jpg

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Kent

Yep. In the pic I included above, you can see the mount on the BGB, and how it lines up with the inside lift arm on the rockshaft, even though the lift cylinder isn't shown. This tractor came from the factory with hydrolift, as far as I can tell. There's no signs of the rockshaft being sawn off, as might have happened with a dealer installed hydrolift kit. Looks like it never had provisions for manual lift...

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structures

Guys I have another question. The belt that drives the tiller. Mine is 5/8 X 96 which I believe the books call for on a B212. However it seems real sloppy. I also believe I read a b210 uses a 5/8 X 88 belt. Curious if any of you have any experience or know how your's works? If I rock the idler arm back at the bottom I can snug up the belt. Anybody ever heard of that?

16448049718_2db81e76db_c.jpg

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bowhunt4life

You should have a 5" pulley on your BGB to run the tiller. Then on the tiller itself the engagement idler pulley should be beneath the belt so when the pulley raises up it puts tension on the belt.

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