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Dunn15

Simplicity 7016 hydrostatic

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Dunn15

I believe the mower is a late model 7016. When you turn the key it doesn't do anything but if I jump the two posts on the solenoid that aren't going to the starter it will turn over but there is no spark.. I bought a new ignition and when you turn it still nothing happens? Does anyone have any ideas where to start or what the problem could be? We did check the points and three are opening but no spark there. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

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GrincheyOne
quote:Originally posted by Chris727

Did they get you the correct switch? For a briggs powered machine I believe it should be a 2178280.


id="quote">
id="quote">Chris,That has been superseded by 2178280SM sm01Wayne

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SmilinSam

You have 2 separate problems going on .

1st is the lack of spark. That has to do with the engine/plug/points-or electronic ignition, and/or keyswitch.

This could be dirty points, bad plug, bad coil, or bad kill position on the keyswitch. I'd bet on dirty points or bad coil.

2nd is the inability to crank the engine over. That has to do with the safety switches, fuse-or breaker, solenoid or keyswitch.

Safety switches are on the PTO lever(s), seat, and hydro lever- or if a gear drive at the back of the shift rod above the tranny. Frequently they rust up and stick either closed or open.

Fuse or breaker is usually down under the dash behind the battery.

This could be a short somewhere blowing the fuse or snapping the breaker.

Could be simply a bad solenoid. You can put 12v to the small post on the solenoid that the keyswitch start position is hooked to to see if it makes the solenoid work. If not, the solenoid is bad.

Keyswitch could be bad. Check to see if you have 12v out at the solenoid when you turn the key to start position, if you do, then its a problem with the safety switches. If you don't the re check again for 12v up at the switch start tab when the key is turned to start. If no power then its the switch, or power source to the switch.

Safety switch could be bad . you can use a meter to check continuity of each switch when engaged. If power wont go through it when engaged safety is bad.

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BLT

I am making an assumption you have a hydro driven unit and there is a wiring diagram enclosed in this operators manual to help you diagnose things. The only difference between hydro and manual transmission wiring is location of neutral switch.

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/heCyEN8atG5rE3CNj5kbp796Dq.pdf

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Dunn15

I also believe I did find a circuit breaker coming off the solenoid and the one side of looks to possibly be corroded pretty bad. Can I remove it and jump the two wires to test the circuit breaker or this won't work?

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spyder400k

ok it sounds like you have a safty switch problem on the crank issue,next would be the solinoid. the blue wire going to the soliniod should have power in the start cranking position. with the key cranking position check to see there is power to the soliniod . if no power your open on the safty switchs. and if it has no points its electronic ignition if its not cranking 250 rpm it wont have good spark. if it has points it should have spark with 50 rpm. the breaker u speek of is for the starter side of the circut.this is a bi metal circut breaker. it takes the heat if the starter gets stuck on. helps prevent a wireing burn up from a bad solinoid or starter. this should get it going.

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GrincheyOne

Elis, (welcome to the Club)

Based upon the diagram, that Bob refers to on page 31) there is no interlock module, and the solenoid shown has an integral ground. So the safety (nanny) switches are in series with the blue wire to the solenoid activation terminal. The circuit breaker (20A) is part of the charging system, and not the ignition system.

If connecting 12V (+) to the small solenoid terminal (light blue wire) does not cause the solenoid to activate, then the solenoid is bad. If it does activate but does not activate the starter, again the solenoid is bad. I have had a couple that were intermittent.

If the solenoid activates and the starter cranks, then it is the safety switches. When I was testing (cause I had 3 safety switches, I made 3 shunts that I could substitute for the switches).

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MikeES

Elis, we are all assuming that this is a Briggs and Stratton engine.

It is not a Kohler is it? As the ignition is different for a Kohler than what is describe above.

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Dunn15

Ok. I went hey had he solenoid checked they said it was fine no problem there so went back and checked the safety switch and taking the switch out and jumping a wire to the two plug ends. Still won't crabk or spark. I can get it to crank by jumping the solenoid posts but theres no spark that way either.

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Ronald Hribar

if you put a wire between battery cable side of solenoid to the small center post will the motor crank?

if it does,your solenoid is good

if it does not then solenoid is bad

when you cranked it over,did you have ignition switch on?

will be no spark if switch is off

last question how were you checking for spark?

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Dunn15

Yes with the ignition on I can jump across the two posts and it will turn over but will not turn over with the key. And I pulled the plug and turned the motor over with plug grounded but there is no spark.

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richiebanta1

I had the same problem with a sovereign 7016 I bought and after tracing everything down my amp guage was bad I replaced it been working fine since.this was after I had replaced the solenoid and starter and it didn't work

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