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Repower Landlord 2110 with Predator 22hp

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My old Landlord 2110 is getting a repower.

Why? Mostly "just because". But also the 10hp engine is getting pretty long in the tooth. While it's not smoking it doesn't run smoothly even after tinkering with the carb - oh, and I switched to a Magnafire instead of coil/condenser years ago. It's still reliable enough but I'm yearning for something more!

Has anyone here tried to stuff a 22hp into an old FDT like this?

Based upon my measurements this is going to be a really tight fit. (purists close your eyes) There will be cutting, reshaping, welding and fabrication required.

I've already repowered by 3210v with a 10hp diesel. I figured why not try something a bit more absurd?!

For the last few years I tried to source a good 16hp vintage briggs without luck. They're tough to find. So instead I'm going with a modern engine that's more powerful, quieter, less polluting, and better on gas.

As I progress on this project I'll toss up photos for everyone to enjoy and nitpick about. My goal is to accomplish this repower with keeping as much of the original look of this classic as possible. I really like my rounded hood and hope there's no trimming required there.

Right now the engine is freshly unboxed in the garage while the tractor is hibernating in the shed until the snow melts enough to extract it.

Thoughts and comments welcome, though please be civil.


(future) Landlord 2022

Landlord 3210vD (diesel repowered)

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This is the Harbor Freight Honda look alike or an actual Honda engine?

The Harbor Freight one somebody did last fall in a 7100 series I believe.

I was considering it myself as it was recently on sale for 699.00

I'm just not sure I want to give up my Kohler for an Engine full of electrical crap!

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Jason, If my Onan doesn't perform as I think it should in my 620, it's going to get a predator transplant. Been following maxwood's transplant and other than stopping by to see it in person he's pretty much convinced me it's the way to go.

I have two predators on air compressors6.5 and 13hp I'm very pleased with both, would not hessitate to buy another

just my $.02

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Amazing. Astounding. I can't believe the fit is so close! There will be trimming, custom exhaust work, driveshaft adapter, and routing of throttle and choke cables. But I just can't believe how close things fit the first time.A few notes:

  • the shroud cut-out in the bottom of the tractor frame needs to be enlarged
  • the engine needs about a 3/4" block beneath it to align the driveshaft
  • the muffler will go through the front grill using custom extension tubes
These photos show the original engine on the left and new on the right:



More photos, notes, and videos coming in the days and weeks ahead.



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If you can get what the MFG. calls a front weight (which goes under the frame, that should get yot the height you need. I may have one spared in

the process of repowering my '68 2110, bu it would be from a ;66 Big 10.

the holes in the plates are a match to each other.

My repower was urged on by a few factors;

- The acquisition of a hydraulic lift kit, necessitating the removal of the shelves, and the tower w/ tunnel cover.

- The need to pull the 10HP to clean out the excessive amount of rodent nesting.

- The availability of a 14 HP from RayS.

- the need to clean down and repaint vast ares of rust.

My current 2110 repower was urged by going over a '69 parts machine, and found the 10 HP was toast! As luck would have it Chris DeLong came up with a 12HP out of an Allis FDT. This project is coming closer to closure, as is the need to plow snow and ice. Since the engine on my '88 4212G died.

Good luck as you press forward.

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An evening of cutting and trimming. In the end the engine seems to be fitting like a glove. There has been minimal cutting needed.Before and after photos (before on the left in each photo)



Next up will be the driveshaft adapter. I have measurements and a drawing for what I need. I'll build a wooden adapter from plywood first to assure it's properly designed, I have some reservations that will become apparent when I next post an update.



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Tonight was woodwork. In addition to a 1" engine adapter plate to mount the engine to the chassis I built a driveshaft adapter. Below are images of the prototype.





After further consideration I feel I can run the tractor with a 1" plywood driveshaft adapter. Some will call me crazy others will say it's unsafe. But stop for a moment and consider that flimsy little fiberglass disc that takes the engine torque. I'm comfortable with putting 1" of plywood to the test and reporting the results back to this group after some time.Stay tuned for more updates on this engine repower project. I'm hoping to make great progress over the weekend.





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Hello, I have done the predator engine into a 7117, I made an adapter from a 4 inch giant 1/2inch thick washer I bought from Mcmaster

preadtor adapter 2 008.JPG

preadtor adapter 2 002.JPG

On my first try , the driveshaft wobbled more than I liked , so I made a second one it is much better. accuracy was better the second time Someone on another forum bought an adapter from Small engine Warehouse that bolted to the engine and right to the driveshaft . When parts are rotating at 3000 rpms thereare a lot of forces at play ! Be safeYuo can search for my build thread Thanks Ken in Mi



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The weekend proved productive. The chassis adapter plate was cut and fit. It's 1" of plywood shaped to the footprint of the original Briggs 10hp to get the chassis holes to align. The new engine would only align to allow 3 mounting bolts. When I pulled the 10hp from the tractor it was only held with three bolts so I'm comfortable cutting this corner on the adapter plate. We'll see how it holds up over time.





Next I refined the driveshaft adapter. This too is made from the same 1" plywood. The original cast iron parts bolt right on along with the fiberglass flex plate. I have some doubt about the longevity of this and if things start getting "strange" I'll shut it down and get a metal one custom fabricated.







Next up was tackling the throttle and clutch cabling. I had to pull the dash from the tractor to access the back side of the existing cable controls. The original cables are solid and used to push and pull. The new cables are bicycle cable shifter cables and housing used to only pull. Springs on the engine controls pull them back, instead of needing a 'push' action from the controls.First I had to swap sides on the engine controls.


Thankfully the engine designers anticipated this and made the switch reasonably easy. I had to source nuts and bolts for the new placement of the cable clamps.


Out came the dash.


The original cables.


The new bicycle SRAM (a bicycle part brand) shifter cables and housings. I was able to reuse some parts from the Predator throttle controls.

















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Thankfully wiring was fairly simple, after an hour of planning. Mostly the power flows like this: battery - ammeter - ignition switch - starter switch - starter motorThe new wiring really tidied up the rear of the dashboard.



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And now to the custom exhaust. Turns out 1" electrical conduit and related couplings fit really well for this part. It took a few false starts using plumbing parts before I hit upon this one.I started by cutting the flanges from the muffler giving me an inch of straight pipe.


After cutting it became apparent the exhaust pipe was not fully round. Perhaps to better fit the bolts through the flange?



Even with the gap the fittings work really well.


After some alignment testing I marked and cut the front grill.



And here's a test fit of the muffler and the custom fittings. My plan is to allow the muffler to be removed without hassle so the grill can be removed.



Next up is some welding for the muffler pipes, rerouting the fuel line, finishing the wiring, installing the dash ... yada yada yada









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Today was the last day. All the little details were worked out - wiring, control cables, muffle adapter pipes, etc. Here are some photos to help demonstrate the trickier parts of the project.The plastic screen around the driveshaft adapter was trimmed.


Figuring out the grill and muffler was the hardest part. There were several holes cut through the original grill to allow the exhaust pipes and mounting bolts to pass through.Here is one hole for the exhaust pipe and the additional screw added to support the metal mesh.


Here are the two holes needed for once side of the engine - one for exhaust and one for mounting bolt.


The full grill with pipes and bolts coming through.


A view from the top showing where the bolts mount to the engine block before passing through the grill.


The bolts holding the muffler.


Additionally I added screws to the bottom of the muffler to pipe connection to help hold everything together. Likely these screws will fall out with time but figured I'd try it anyway.









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Looks amazing. Nice work! How does it perform with all the extra power? I put a k341 Kohler single cylinder 16 horse into one of my B110's and it'll pull wheelies if you're not careful with the clutch. But otherwise works amazingly.

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