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Echo Leaf Blower Poblem


cojomu

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I know this is probably not proper place to ask this question, however in reading what you fellows figure out on these older tractors, what better place to ask for help. So with that here goes...last fall my faithful 13 year old Echo PB-200 leaf blower started running rough. After warming up (running about 10 minutes at lower RPM)it would smooth out and respond to run at full throttle. Fast forward to the present. Will only run at idle, when you crack throttle it will die out. Here is what I have done so far. Checked and cleaned spark arrestor in muffler. Cleaned fuel filter in tank including the thin paper membrane under the absorbent filter at the end. Replaced spark plug. Have ran on two occasions a mixture of gas with seafoam in fuel. Checked vent and line that comes from fuel tank, and also replace fuel supply line. When you adjust the high speed screw, which has very limited travel, there is no change in RPM or throttle response. I have even disassembled the carb and looked for trash or anything that might cause a restriction. The only thing I haven't done to the carb is remove the needle and checked there. Only reason not doing this is screw that secures the arm and needle won't move. I tried to apply force and phillips head screw started to strip. Really didn't want to mess up so put all back together and thought it was time to seek some others suggestions. Thanks for taking the time on this non tractor related problem.

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I would start out by doing a Google search on your model Echo and look for a parts break down on the carb. I would then order all new rubber diapragms for inside of the carb. Also check that the small round screen inside the carb is clean.

If all else fails...Ebay has replacement carbs for around 20.00.

Best of luck...these lil engines can be fickle.

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If your carb diaphragm and fuel parts have a crinkle to them, it's time to replace them. My Napa store has supplied me with all the kits I need.

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Thanks for input. Will disassemble carb again and look closer for cracks and wrinkles in diaphragm. Also Will check at NAPA for kit. Have already went to EBay and think I have found a complete carb for about $35 including shipping. Will have to check numbers first, already closed up workshop for the night. Tomorrow is another day, and also agrees "these lil engines can be fickle"....I'll agree to that!

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Chances are you need to clean needle valve, they tend to get a build up and most times hard to find wire small enough to fit thru jet. last one I worked on for customer we just replaced carb

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A lot of problems are being caused by fuel with ethanol in it allowed to remain in the fuel systems of small engines. The mix attracts moisture, and causes rubber parts, as well as aluminum and potmetal to disintegrate. The Seafoam should have cleaned it out, but not always. I bought an ultrasonic cleaner just for 2 cycle carbs, and have had decent luck cleaning them more thoroughly since then. My best advice to anyone using 2-cycle tools is to use the highest test fuel you can get that is non-ethanol. You pay more for the fuel, but if you add in the cost of fuel lines, carbs, and associated fuel system parts, the gas gets a lot cheaper, fast.

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