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Mike_H

7016H refurb with electric (no-> HYDROLIFT)!

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Mike_H

I've been really enjoying the last few weeks as I've been working on my tractors again, since I got my 7016H basket case running. This hobby is kinda hooking into me, as it incorporates a LOT of what I like to do, and its not ridiculously expensive.

What started out as simply re-building a cheap, broken tractor to use around the house is quickly becoming a labor of love. At least, my thoughts are heading down that path. I've got the engine rebuilt and painted, the wire harness is ALL new, Its getting a early model 7000 series hood (for the "look"), and I'm thinking about all the other "stuff." I'd REALLY like to get an electric lift for her while I have it torn down for paint.

My plans include fabbing a rear blade to pull behind while I snowblow, so that I can get right down to concrete. I do want independent lift control on both implements, and looking into RH lift levers, it appears that the big heavy snowblower would work off the manual lift on the RH side, and the electric lift would control rear and mid (off the rockshaft).

Anyone know of any methods to flip this around? I'd really like to use the electric lift to control the snowblower (and use a 6 axis joystick to lift, rotate spout, and control deflector sm06), and run the back blade off the manual lift. I may have to fab something, which is ok, but if someone has already done it, I'd like to learn from your experience.

Regardless, it should be a fun project. As much money as I've spent so far, it PALES in comparison to what I spend on the boat, or what my friends spend on their Jeeps!

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rokon2813

Okay, I had something typed all up and realized it wasn't what you want, so here we go again. LOL

RBTrockshafts.jpg

Going from left, the first arm is for the rear lift, second and third are for the electric lift to mount.If you cut the rock shaft between the first and second arms, and there is room in your tractor to mount 2 pillow block bearings, the 2 pieces of shaft would "butt" together, but not be connected.A standard left lift arm would operate the rear lift, and the electric would operate front and center.

RBTrockshafts.jpg.50019fabfce39f2c05c0aef4a0cc272c.jpg

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hurleyii

Would bearings even be needed? A shaft big enough to fit the Rock shaft into with brass bushings or just a grease fitting would actually work as well wouldn't it?

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rokon2813

The bearings would be more for support than anything else.

Could probably use a pipe with a grease fitting in it, but need some way to fasten it down so the whole unit doesnt try to "bend" when pressure is applied.

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Mike_H

I was kinda thinking along the same lines...Split the rockshaft, so that there is independent control. I totally agree that it would need support, but I'm not sure the sheemetal tunnel is where to get it from, so that is another frame member to be welded in.

Finally, the rockshaft would have to be split in such a way as it could be reconnected, so that a mower deck would hang properly...

BTW, what is the difference between the two rockshafts in the picture? Does one just have the electric actutuator bracket installed?

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Mike_H

So, I might have to change the title of this thread! I was cruising around ebay this morning, and found a control valve for 15 bucks! Then I read Rod's post about using a shuttle control lever for the lift lever, and found one of those for $17. Jumped on them both. I'm watching a cylinder for 50...probably jump on that soon too. Anyway, having a tough time coming up with a mounting bracket. Does anyone have one they want to sell me? Or at least get me measurements from? Doesn't look to hard to fabricate.

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Mike_H

Progress has been made on this project this weekend. I built a cylinder mount a while ago, but haven't gotten around to posting pictures of it. When I make sure everything works, I'll make a quick print, and post it somewhere on the site...Anyway, I have the control valve and lever mounted. I need to refabricate the lever though...I can't get the shaft to pop free...The lever "drive" feature needs to rotate 90 degrees to work correctly. I have some 5/8" rod left over from my deck roller rebuild, so I'll just make a new one.Pictures... I used a clutch pivot for the lever (Special thanks to Rokon2813 for his donation). I had to cut a little off it, to make it work with my lever

Levermount2.jpg

LeverMount1.jpg

Here is the Control lever, in place

levermount3.jpg

And finally, the control valve. I will have to come back, and slot the holes in the frame to provide precise adjustment, but for now these work. I was just happy I was able to get the holes located well enough to get the bolts IN using only a tape measure, compass, and hand drill to transfer the holes to the right spots!

ControlValve1.jpg

I might add a "skid plate" to the bottom of the tractor, just to protect the control valve...

Levermount2.jpg.1c8d287a36a351ad05733846caf9c784.jpg

LeverMount1.jpg.686b31283cbc54a2c7d2a6e351ca165d.jpg

levermount3.jpg.f9db3aab217a31abf04b0000ae5358c1.jpg

ControlValve1.jpg.1675a84d5b1e90e7eb5b919842d23a8a.jpg

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Mike_H

Almost done with this phase of the project. Gotta finish routing my hydraulic lines, and I still have to remove some material from my cylinder to fit the rockshaft. Boy, is it tight through the tunnel now! Should have checked the reach to my lever before welding the pivot post on...In this picture, the lift lever would be straight up and down. That makes for a REALLY long reach from the seat of the tractor.

oops.jpg

So Friday after work, I got the grinders out, and removed my weld, and rotated the post another 45°. The lever is at a much more manageable position now. I also made a "custom" key to actuate the control valve. My measurements were off just enough that a standard key wouldn't fit.

Modifiedkey.jpg

control.jpg

Here is the operations portion, all mocked up.

hooked up.jpg

oops.jpg.87a1ffdc1c52fca01781184dc6f5a3db.jpg

Modifiedkey.jpg.824619cb94e6fed0ffb9ba70da7e2945.jpg

control.jpg.617fce771283cafb0c835bb0bc9c8335.jpg

57e061faa8b2f_hookedup.jpg.ae1545a3f6ee702a087b210cc3a9eefa.jpg

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Mike_H

Man, my progress is slow. I read these posts of guys rebuilding tractors in two weeks...I've been working on adding this lift for 6 months! Finally have a break from class (I'm going to grad school part time) and the yard maintenance is slowly decreasing. I got everything in tonight. I bought a new rockshaft from a hydrolift tractor, because the manual lift rockshaft I had was tweaked. I sandblasted that, and gave it a quick coat of paint. Anyway, pictures...

before driveshaft.jpg

After the driveshaft is in, there isn't a whole lot of room in the tunnel. I can't imagine what it would look like with powersteering too!

with driveshaft.jpg

Some of you experts wanna chime in, and let me know if I have the cylinder and rockshaft in correctly? Also, How to my hydraulic lines look? In the right spots? I don't have anything tightened up yet, and I know the clearance of the steel hydro lines to the drive shaft is close.

57e062007bbf3_beforedriveshaft.jpg.971e0fb30e317da6fb8217ea9f3d265e.jpg

57e062008b2ff_withdriveshaft.jpg.4aa8693f756e52f0c9c7112f44e9004d.jpg

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Mike_H

I have everything installed, and I was de-bugging today. I'm not getting any movement in the cylinder. I know the air will have to be purged, and I'll have to add fluid, but is there any trick to bleeding the system? Do I need to crack a line or something to release the air lock? Thanks

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