Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

  • Announcements

    • Kent

      Sign In or Password Problems?   10/09/2016

      If you can't Sign In, you need to reset your password.  Use the Forgot Your Password link at the bottom of the Sign In screen, and the site will send you an email to reset it. If you have an AOL email account, use the Contact Us link at the bottom of the screen -- AOL is intermittently blocking email from the site.
    • Kent

      Feedback Please!   10/28/2017

      See News and Announcements forum.
Sign in to follow this  
PatrickE

Broken lift cable

Recommended Posts

PatrickE

Well I put the tiller on the 3416H today to work up the garden and after the first pass my rear lift cable snapped, so I had to take off tiller and there it sits. I am having a hard time finding the part# for rear cable w/electric lift, the manual/lift cable appears to be the same on both ends and this one needs an eyelet on one end. Any info would be greatly appreciated...Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Burntime

Spend the extra money for I think its aircraft quality plastic coated. It will never rot away and is stronger. I pulled t posts out with mine. I think it was 26 bucks for parts and made it myself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CarlH

Over $50 from Simplicity. Be careful about making your own because it is difficult to crimp the fittings properly and the U-bolt clamps are probably not rated high enough for the Simplicity applications. Probably doesn't make a lot of difference for a moldboard plow but for the tillers (especially the HD tiller) it's right at the limit for wire cable crimp fittings properly done. The cable is only rated for 800 pounds, static. That does not consider that while only a portion of the tiller's weight is supported by the cable, impulse/shock loading and mechanical disadvantage need to be considered. gwiseman and I have been looking into this. I suggest you listen to Burntime, for now get the Simplicity cable, at least for tillers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
victorsnc

If you have access to a "Wire Rope & Cable" supplier - they can make you a far superior lift cable. Just make sure they have the "hydraulic swedging machine" to crimp the cable ends. I had one fabricated over 20 years ago and it has yet to break. The tiller puts lot of "shock load" on the lift cable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PatrickE

Thanks guys, I'd buy OEM, just haven't seen the correct one in parts diagrams yet for the electric lift, it has an eyelet on one end and is approx 41" long. I might have to make something for now because the tiller is still sitting by the garden, didn't want to drag it thru the yard...Lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PhanDad

From the description of your cable, it sounds like rear lift kit mfg#1690045 is installed on your tractor.From the "Parts Manual Model 7000 for Attachments and Accessories":

7000Series_RearLiftParts1.JPG

7000Series_RearLiftParts2.JPG

The cable shown has an eyelet; per Jack's it's still available for $89.Interesting that the cable shown in the 3416H parts manual doesn't have the eyelet:

3416_RearLift.JPG

And it's less than half the price at Jack's ($35)

7000Series_RearLiftParts1.JPG.182ac5df73e8a100b5d9c191ba0a12bb.JPG

7000Series_RearLiftParts2.JPG.ba30813ba8fc4eabeeaaecebb7f558b7.JPG

3416_RearLift.JPG.7f8b556e36c011d71fd2382e8cafc536.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
427435

I've been able to replace my cable using supplies at Farm Fleet. Places like that have cable, crush clamps, and U-bolt clamps (I use 3 when there's space). It's worked for me with a tiller on the back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GrincheyOne

i thought I rcognized sm00 the mode of construction of your lift cable. This same enginering was used on the lift cable for the "990370 weed cutter. Two two bent steel clevis. the cable is held by a single cable crimp at each end which prevents it from passing through the eyelet on the steel clevis. As shown here...

LIFT_CABLE.JPG

LIFT_CABLE.JPG.b90ce4726cbf3716237b70d4e5a2da07.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PatrickE

Yes the OEM was 89.00, it has front eyelet/rear clevis on it and crimped cable. The same one with an adjustable stud on the rear of the cable was 49, re-using my clevis. Brenda at Sandy Lake hooked me up with that one today. And yes Bill, the manual showed the wrong one, it has to have the eyelet up front, that's what was confusing me. Thanks for all the info and diagrams/part numbers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PhanDad

Patrick,I think you order the cable for the newer lift kit (#1690404); it's similar but the clevis is different I believe. It's threaded to accept the adjustable stud end as shown in the install instructions:

mfg1690404_RearLiftKit.JPG

Is your clevis threaded? And the note says this kit can't be used on a Vickers hydro, maybe something to do with the threaded clevis and clearance?

mfg1690404_RearLiftKit.JPG.a4d99ce9c2d18b8bb0cf667b979a28e8.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PatrickE

Finally got my new cable put on and did some tilling. Had to modify clevis hookup but nice having threaded end for adjusting length (and that cable was $40 cheaper).

tiller.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×