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7016 gets hot then wants to stall


csciara

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(16hp briggs) i talked to a guy at sandy lake imp who said there sould be no internal problems since it runs great for about 45min then stalls under load, if i play with the jet adjusment it gets me back to garage till it cools then runs great again for about 45min

but he did say it sounds like i have 10hp jet in the carb and not a 16hp jet. i did not know there were differences i have 5 simplicitys some 10hp some 16hp and when a carb acts up i sometimes switch carbs.

any know of a difference in jets and if so any part numbers, i see when you order a rebuild kit it say 10hp thru 16hp

i appreciate any help

thanks

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I have 10hp briggs that had a champion plug in it that was apparently the the wrong heat range. Suppose to be cross over to Champion CJ8. It was one of the Champion EZ start plugs,went back to CJ8 and it runs fine now. It would run ok for a while and then start missing especially under a load after about 30 minutes. I was never so supprised how much better it ran.If its not broke don't try running something else. I have run the same carb kits for a 10,12 and 14 for years and no problem

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Take of the shield [306] on opposite side of carb and check for packed debris, especially from mice. Without that air flow things really get hot. You might have to take off SG to get to it.;)

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i am running an autolite 255 plug in it ( is this ok? )

as far as the shield it is clean under it, are u saying to remove it or just check that it is clean

on another subject i been looking at that older unused 16hp cast on ebay for 750 think its worth it

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Agree with Bob

clean crap of from cooling fins

and make sure your oil level is correct and clean

if it stinks drain it

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I have never had a 7000/700 series that didn't do this, but the ones I have had were Kohler powered. In talking with a few guys, it seemed they just didn't have adequate airflow, but there are plenty of owners who never seem to experience this. I screwed with mine repeatedly, and the best solution was a chunk of 2x4 to prop the hood open a bit. Cooked me when operating it, but it cured the overheating. IMO, some of these just don't cool well, but absolutely check to make sure your cooling system is clean and properly installed first.

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I have a 7016 that used to do this. The problem was that there was an almost invisible crack in the head. It would use oil but not smoke or anything and stall after about 30-45 min. of use. I ended up finding a new head and rebuilding the motor. It was my first rebuild and ran great until the new connecting rod broke. I ended up repowering it with a Briggs Vanguard, that was expensive. Still running today.

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The B&S operating and maintenance manual calls for Champion CJ8 short plug or J8 long plug if you use champion. Autolite A7N short or long A71, or AC CS45 short or long GC46. This for 12HP model series 300401 to 300427 and 14 HP series 320401 to 320427,Also change out the condenser ,gap plugs at.030", Ignition point gap at .020". As others have said keep the cooling fins as clean as possible .It will overheat eventually if you don't.Overheating will cause the condenser to fail . Once condenser gets too hot it will cause misfire or just quit running.Hope this helps.

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i changed the plug to a short champion cj8, replaced oil (rotella 30w t) and ensured that the shrouds are clean, i went to replace the condenser and turns out i have no point or condenser, must be electronic ignition

i cut it seemed to cut better i was going easy in 2 hight then got bored and shifted to 3 high then 2 min later it sputtered and then stalled, it start right back up but ony with choke then i immediately shut the choke, it tacks out like it should, i let of the clutch and it stalls and this is in any gear

if it is electronic ignition could there be an issue there???

and as far as the the cracked block, i never lose any oil with this engine

i consider it old and tired, but from what i hear others it should still be strong

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I think I would disconnect the fuel line from the carb and see if you have good fuel flow especially if you have an inline filter. If the flow is slow replace it .If everything is ok at this point I would remove the carb and do a rebuild assuming this has not been done.A partial clogged filter can fill the carb bowel after it sits for while , but when you start running the engine it be starved for fuel.

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Float level within the carb can be an issue too. If the float is set too low it won't reserve enough to run properly. Too high and it will be prone to flooding.

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Tony; the first advice from Sandy Lake may be correct. If the main jet is too small it will cause it to run lean at high rpm's and over heat. This may make a weak condenser or coil break down...Dave

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Many good suggestions. Might also want to consider the Magnetron. Coils often fail in this heat related manner.

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