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Debuts 917h mower problems


lovemy917h

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Was looking for some advice on addressing multiple issues with my 48" mower deck. Started mower this season after removing the snow thrower and putting deck back on. Sharpened blades, etc. and started cutting. Cut is erratic. Smooth in general but at yard transitions, turns etc. it acts as if it is not level. It leaves lines or gouges as I turn at transition in yard surface like mower is not staying level. Tried to level per procedure using handles on back of deck. No change, so I took deck off to tackle some basics. Roller bar bent in towards deck at one end so I straightened. Will change arbor drive belt when I put it back together. Blew out grass around belt (anybody know a way to keep this grass out - seems like I blow it out and it comes back quick.). Checked arbors, they seem to spin free but one has about 1/4" vertical play. Reading posts on this site it is not clear to me if I should worry about that play or not (took arbor apart looks like lower bearing is spinning in housing somewhat.). Wondering if I should rebuild arbor. Also see that lower bolts on rocker arm assembly move in slotted holes on each side of deck. Should these float free? Wondering if these loosened and so deck won't

move up and down with rollers or if they are designed so bolts move up and down in slots. Curious as to thoughts. Want to get the deck in good shape before I mess with tie rod adjustment (I have never messed with these but leveling procedure would tell me to to make sure I have right blade measurements).

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Sorry this is a early '90s Deutz Allis 917h, and from everything I have seen and read is identical to the Simplicity 7117 for that vintage.

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Are you letting the deck all the way down so there is slack in the lift cable? If not the deck will not float.

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Simplicity decks are designed to cut in the fully lowered position with slack in the cable as MikeES stated. The deck rides on the rear rollers.

The one major downside to the older left discharge deep decks is their lack of high cutting height. You're lucky to get a 3" cut with a properly setup deck with new full diameter rollers.

Most of run with the adjusters at the end of travel to have the roller bar lowered down as far as possible (against the bottom of the slot) far max cutting height. The adjusters are NOT for leveling, they are for height adjustment. Leveling and front/back height difference is set with clevises on the front of the deck bail.

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Ahh my bad. Sorry. I did not read that post right. Yeah I do NOT cut at full down with slack. Embarassed to say I didn't know I should be in full down position.

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Well since you made a deck post I hope you don't mind if I ask about replacing my roller bar as it's almost wore thru! I'm actually still getting 2.5" cut and have room to raise it!

Also any suggestions for sandy yards? Deck gets angry and fights with the yard sometimes!

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Yeah roller shaft is pretty salty. Cannot find one used. My local dealer can get one but it is pretty high $. Straightened best I could, cracked at cotter pin hole. If it bends again or breaks I will replace. Gonna replace some bad rollers, others measured ok vs new. Local dealer rebuilt arbor. Gonna put it all back together, replace belt that drives arbors and set deck height properly since I'm a little smarter now. Still nervous on what height I can get in full down position but we'll see how it shakes out. Want to verify that I have this right, rocker arm lower bolts should travel freely in slotted holes right? These bolts should not be tight against slots on deck?

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Every deck I've ever had the bolts were tight. I'm pretty sure most people loosen them, and the 2 at the top, make your adjustments, then tighten everything up again so it stays put.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rebuilt arbor, new roller bar (it broke due to crack at cotter pin hole). Put back together and replaced arbor drive belt. Ran height adjustment handles all the way clockwise until I was out of room in slots. Locked all bolts down per comment above. Cut with deck all the way down and slack and in cable. Cut looks good; a little lower than I'd like, but nice and smooth and that's all the height I'm gonna get. Problem solved...thank you gentlemen. I will spend the rest of the day shaking my head that it took me that long to understand the deck design. Embarrassing!

For what it's worth roller bar price seems pretty stable between those few vendors that have them. My local shop had an equivalent price. Yes, this would be easy to fab. Don't have a fab shop nearby, just bought, but if I had some more time I would have tried to find someone to make it. A couple prices out there on the Internet about 2/3 of price from Simplicity but neither panned out. Ordered from one but they called back and said price was wrong, their new price ended up being same as others.

Also when I put rollers on bar during reassembly they bound up and wouldn't roll (too tight side to side, pinched by deck mount bars). In procuring new bar and one new roller, I matched the parts diagram for my 1691221 deck, but ended up having to cut a little length off a couple rollers with my bandsaw to match up with cotter pin holes on bar. My deck has 9 rollers, 1, 6, and 2 from right to left as you sit on it. In case it helps anybody.

Thanks again.

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What was the actual price of the roller bar and what's the part numbers? Also what size deck was that cause I also have a 48" deck and a 42" deck now

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It was $125 w/o shipping from Jack's. In retrospect I should have just used my local dealer. 48" deck, model 1691221. There are multiple Simplicity mower deck cut sheets I have found that are similar (different mower deck # but same roller bar #). Try partstreecom if you have your deck number....My 48" deck roller bar p/n was 1668541 (Simplicity) 285829 (Stens). 1657894 is the Simplicity part number I show on my cut sheets for multiple 42" decks (again different mower deck # but same roller bar #).

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