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hurleyii

916h hydro tranny fixed

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hurleyii

Well I finally actually finished getting the 916h up and running. The idler pulley was ready to fly along with the belt. Took it for a drive and it's for sure burning oil so I will be pulling the k 341 and having it rebuilt ASAP!

I also intend on doing a full restore along with any upgrades I can do to make things a little better and longer lasting!

Any suggestions besides the poor mans power steering?

Motor mounts to help dampen the engine vibration!!

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ardisam

You really can't put motor mounts on these tractors to dampen the vibration, Do you have the fiberglass flex disc on the driveshaft(flywheel side of the motor) or do you have the rubber coupler the mounts to the flywheel. Hear is a another option, you can take out the balance gears out of the motor when you rebuild the motor. It helps with noise and vibration.

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hurleyii

This unit has fiberglass but I do have a rubber driveshaft system I could use instead! Why can't we put motor mounts on this engine? John Deer 300 series uses the same engine and they have a motor mount engine. If there's a will and a torch isn't anything possible?

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ardisam

That's good with the rubber coupler! Well, the John Deere Kohler's use a different oil pan vs the allis and simplicity. Are you looking to put motor mounts in between the motor and the frame? If you do, that will make the motor sit higher than the driveshaft.

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hurleyii

Yes I'm planning on making the mods needed to either convert to a deer style system or motor mounts to frame. My desire is to go to a deer style setup so as soon as I pull the motor I will make a template block of the oil pan.

I know the bushings directly to the motor would be the easiest way but I think if a company like Deer took the time to design that system they use it's clearly superior or else they wouldn't of done it!

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goatfarmer

I don't know why you couldn't stick a thin piece of rubber, like inner tube pieces, where the motor bolts to the frame. Might provide a little dampening.

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Kenh

Whatever is done you must retain driveshaft alignment. That may mean cutting up the frame to remove the plate where the motor bolts to. You do this to provide clearance for the motor to shake a bit. Without looking, I think that might remove the rear mount for the front axle.

The other option might be to make a new drive shaft with universal joints. In this case one end should be a slip yoke. Ideally these joints should run at about a 3 degree angle. The engine will need to be raised enough to get the required angle may cause interference with the hood. Running the shaft strait or less than 3 degrees will shorten the joint life considerably.

I don't mean to rain on your parade but just some things that need to be considered.

Ken

PS. If you could come up with a couple of CV joints, that may fix the 3 degree thing.

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hurleyii

Not at all Kenh as for raining on my parade. I have taken into consideration my options and I see them as this.

A. I pick up some shock type rubber bushings and bolt them down to the existing frame to a torq spec of what deer torq there bushings to.

This will give me the additional height measurement to know how much my engine was raised by the modification. I then cut out a section directly under the motor install a spacer and weld it into place to lower the engine mounting plate by the needed amount. Also I feel it will need additional braces! I'm guessing I'll go with the axle bace that was recently made by one of our members on this forum. Additional mods may be needed as well.

B. Go with the john deer base design and redesign it from that point forward . Front axle location and security will be a concern along with the fact the deer has virtually no under area for the engine and they actually have a solid 1/4" frame on both sides of the deer opposed to our 1/8 frame with a solid under motor area!

This project would be very detailed but it is my preferred method. This one may not be possible at all, but I do believe it could be done, I'm just nervous about the correct amount of support for the additional stress I'll create by removing an entire section of the frame.

C. Driveshaft with u joints, I feel this will be a major undertaking as well and I'm not sure how I feel about this one.

I will be studying my neighbors 300 once I get my engine out and he is also removing his I think as he's going to restore it as well!

Thank you for your input! I appreciate all suggestions and thoughts!

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dentwizz

One concern I get with rubber mounts on these engines, which is only slightly different is when the mounts age they can surprise when they fail. Hustler used rubber mounts on their Kubota diesel powered large mower that we had at one place I worked. When the mounts aged past a limit and someone didnt pick up on it, the engine was allowed to kick to a point it did significant damage to the engine bay and oil cooler. All by way of saying, if you use soft mounts try to make a captive design or watch very closely for rubber aging.

Personally, I have found little issue to the engine mounts being solid and vibration if the engine is running properly.

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Hotwire7434

Just a little FYI for some. I just finished a repower like maxwood of a 916H Allis C. and used a Predator 670cc 22hp. I know pics, pics are needed. Working on that. I was looking for the fluid for BGB and hydro transmission. Manual called for AC power fluid 821 or Simplicity 821. I even read somewhere Dextron, Type F transmission fluid. Didn't use these. But another site a guy skunkhome suggested using a Universal Tractor Fluid. I checked the bottle and it stated was the same specs as AC power fluid 821, or Arco Allis 821. Check their website out Tractor Supply.com if in your area. It is under Travellers Universal Tractor Fluid. smallest available is 2 gal. for $17.99 in Kansas. I know I did not need that much. But changed both new hydro filter from wix and fluid and filled the BGB. Still had almost a gal.left. Thought you all might be interested. Hoping not treading over already covered areas.

Tom

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hurleyii

No, I haven't even changed the fluid yet, the hydro had a frozen neutral switch which I had to take a propane torch to and beat on the sides of it when it was hot to get it to release! Actually you brought up a good point I was doing the min just to get it running and moving before I do a full restore!

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