Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

  • Announcements

    • Kent

      Sign In or Password Problems?   10/09/2016

      If you can't Sign In, you need to reset your password.  Use the Forgot Your Password link at the bottom of the Sign In screen, and the site will send you an email to reset it. If you have an AOL email account, use the Contact Us link at the bottom of the screen -- AOL is intermittently blocking email from the site.
    • Kent

      Feedback Please!   10/28/2017

      See News and Announcements forum.
Sign in to follow this  
hurleyii

3415s points assembly ??

Recommended Posts

hurleyii

Owner said that the last time he drove it it started spitting and sputtering away I'm guessing the points assembly is why. Please see below what I found!

Ok I pulled spark plug and had a spark once and then it was gone. I just reassembled the points but they where full of oil. It appears as though what opens the points up for spark is driven by compression!???

Anyway I'm guessing that the brass piece isn't suppose to be flush with the block so the soft rubber button type cover can clamp onto it lightly. Is this correct cause it's completely flush with the block and the rubber piece just sits tight to the block . I'm cleaning up going to auto zone for starting fluid and I'm guessing it'll be running shortly! Battery is taking a charge to hopefully it'll hold one. If all goes well will have a complete and running fleet tonight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dentwizz

The plunger rides on a cam which can wear down the end of the plunger shaft. The oil observed is from clearances in the bushing which is replacable usually.

On each of my engines where the unit wore out, I just sent the flywheel into Briggs(which they do for price of postage) and have it repolarized to modern Magnetron specs with a new $25 coil. Next pull the plunger and bushing out and drive a bolt with sealant into the hole. Done and no more point woes :) A little time investment(about 2 hrs total in and out + transit) for a much more reliable outcome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hurleyii

I'm trying to stay original with the ignition system.

I just got it running after adjusting the points. Oil is gushing out of the plunger assembly,

I can take pics tomorrow but i really feel from what I'm looking at that brass piece should be sticking out and the rubber plunger should be slipped over the top of it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dentwizz

To an extent it should be sticking out a little, but the clearance is worn if it is gushing. The rubber piece is important as well, but it ages and rips after a while. If the bushing is not worn it will gush less(I've seen some that ran fine without it).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
spyder400k

part# 298125s is the plunger and 692880 is the bushing. if not removing the oil pan? use a pair of vice grips and remove it from the block its a slight press fit not too hard to do good luck. points are far better than the magnatron its starts with less rpm on points.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GrincheyOne

there is a dome shaped metal washer that slips overthe rubber cover. it is held on by a fork shaped spring, tht is held in place by the base of the points assembly.

That still does not solve the excessive leakage caused by bushing wear.

See zippovargas UTube video on replacing the plunger.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bill725

I do not agree with spyder400k comment in regards to "points are far better than the magnetron it starts with less rpm on points." I have changed (2) B&S engines, a 10 & 16 HP, starting RPM is not an issue and both start and run better with magnatron than with points, and no more maintenance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hurleyii

The bushing is completly flush with the block there is no way I can remove it from outside unless I put a screw in it and carefully pull it out with the screw. How much is suppose to be sticking out when I'm done?

What kind of maintainence does points have besides the occasional cleaning?

Ok I found the 2 parts what about that rubber piece. I'd like to replace it to as it's old and mushy! Do we have a part number for that? Also if pulling the engine if like to replace all the ignition stuff that's inside the engine cover.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hurleyii
quote:Originally posted by spyder400k

part#221873 retainer. just cause you take the paper does not mean you read it.


id="quote">
id="quote">What's this part number for? It came up with some medal retainer!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hurleyii

Well I ordered it all yesterday. That and the plunger piece is coming from my Allis/Simp dealer. He has a plunger laying around for 10.00 (woohoo) brass bushing is nla so I ordered that from eBay for 14. I have no idea what I'm paying for the rubber piece! (Sorry for any confusion in the last sentence!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MrSteele

Are there not parts catalogs online that show part numbers that anyone can look at? Try looking on www.Jackssmallengines.com, find any part number one might need

Just saying

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hurleyii

I've got all the parts and I'll edit this or share the other part number later.

I was wondering though if the brass bushing is suppose to have threads on one side? The new one does and I haven't pulled engine yet. Hoping to get to that this weekend and get it done!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
powerking_one

Harley,

I believe Briggs changed the design of the newer style of push-rod bushing by pre-threading it to make it easier to remove from the block "the next time". You use various combinations of washers/spacers with a nut to jack it out of the block. The old style required threading the bushing first with a die (hex style with a socket) to do this.

Tom (PK)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
powerking_one

Zippo's method is fine if your engine is apart and have new parts (replacing the bushing & push-rod). The jacking nut/spacer/washers method is how Briggs intended it to be done; without destroying anything and being able to re-use them.

Tom (PK)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hurleyii

Well I haven't Horton the garage cleaned yet so I haven't even tried. All I've been doing is mowing and picking up sticks in my days off . All it does is freaking rain. Last night I mowed the nieghbors yard trying to deal with the Wisconsin state bird ( Mosquito) that appears to have moved to Indiana.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hurleyii

OK guys I finally got back to this machine and have all the new parts installed. I just need to re adjust the points I don't remember how I did this.

Thanks for the help as old faithful is at my dads and the rest of the fleet needs lots of love and or batteries

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×