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Deck roller assemblie?


hurleyii

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Ok so somebody on hear recently bought one but I can not find their original post!

I'm curious what their thoughts where on the new one as to fixing the old one. I have a deck that came with my most recent purchase that's brand new basically but the roller bar is broke/welded but it's bent badly at the weld so I either have to buy a new one or rebuild it! What do you guys think? How hard is it to replace since it's welded to one of the bars? I was thinking of just trying to see how hard it was with my 42" parts deck as it's the same way. At the same time I just want to get my 48" deck running to cut my time mowing down along with I feel like it deserves a new assemblie! Lol

My other question is the online parts store is showing all small rollers now on the 48" deck and a rather large amount of them to!? Did they quit using the large ones and eliminate the whole in the roller bar for cotter pins so it doesn't break?

I know I'm over thinking this right guys! Sorry and thanks for all the help!!

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I'm working on one for a 42" deck right now. I used a cutoff wheel to cut the weld from the locating arm, and a BFH to fully remove the bar. A 6' piece of 5/8" steel is less than 20 bucks from McMaster-Carr. You'll need a way to cut it down to 40 inches, a way to drill the 5 or 6 holes for the cotter pins, and a way to weld it back to the locating bar. I remember the post you're talking about where someone replaced it, and I wanna say it was 120 bucks or so...I like my 20 dollar solution!

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I can post some pictures tonight...Going to try and get it drilled and welded. My fricken grass keeps growing, and making me take mow it with my push mower, and distracting me from "work on tractor" time.

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As Mike stated, they are pretty easy to replace; I used an angle grinder to remove the weld to free the bar. Note the weld is only on one side; this is important since you want an un-welded side to face a roller to allow it to turn easily. As to large length roller, Yates boat rollers seem to be the thing to use.Another thing to consider if swapping rollers bars is that there are at least 3 different brackets (arm) depending on the deck.Older decker, straight bracket:

Simp 42 Deck_0009.jpg

Newer decks have a curved bracket:

RollerSupport1a.jpg

And newest decks (non Sovereign type) straight with wide slot:

IMG_4462a.JPG

Above shown incorrectly used on a 7117 deck.

57e06180740e8_Simp42Deck_0009.jpg.f143edf0e869396f173fe49448d67eee.jpg

RollerSupport1a.jpg.8877efe28212c08cc4348967d91823c4.jpg

IMG_4462a.JPG.231a55c8d9a6f41d1b137ff863d93cc5.JPG

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Well what's the difference in what kind off rollers I go with! Is there a reason to go large over small?

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Some like the original wide roller look; other say the rubber rolls last longer.

I believe the Yates rollers come in long lengths and you cut them to size.

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I see the one link talks about blade speed on 42" vers 48" ,

I was actually wondering if I could do anything to actually raise the blade speed on my decks!

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Hello, on the 48in deck the rod sticks past the bracket 7 1/2 inches. Make sure you have the ROD properly positioned in the bracket! Don't ask how I know!

Ken in Mi

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On my 7117 48" deck the roller bar was bent badly and needed to be replaced; I went to a local tractor repair shop and found a roller bar assembly with somewhat similar brackets. The brackets were too long and in the wrong location so I striped off the rollers placed them to where the brackets would line up with mounting points. I then cut the brackets on the new bar about an inch from the bar, I then cut the original brackets off the old bar. When cutting the old brackets leave as long as possible, then attach them to the deck. Take the new bar with the 1 inch brackets attached and line up with brackets on deck lap them over each other and adjust until the correct height is achieved then tack weld together, do final measurements and then finish welding. It cost me 10$ and took half an hour. I have used it that way for a few years now and it works great. If you want some pictures to get a better idea of what I did I will post some.

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I believe the straight brackets are on 42" decks, and the curved are on 48's. Yates is where I have bought all of my rollers, and they work great. Good guy to deal with too. 5/8" rod from speedy metals. A welder is the only thing that may be hard to come by, the rest of the repairs are easy with simple tools.

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Just remember that if you are going to build your own the replacement bar needs to be cold rolled steel and not hot rolled. Hot rolled will bend too easy, but it will also drill easier. Hot rolled steel will be a little scaly and cold roll will be nice and smooth.

It been a couple of years since I rebuilt a roller, but I remember paying about $10 for a 48" cold rolled rod from Farm and Fleet.

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Well, I didn't get around to tractor time tonight. My wife found a very cool old sears wagon that I tinkered with instead. Its a XL400, and looks original save the bolt that holds the handle to the steering pivot. She got it from the thrift store for 30 bucks!

Anyway, I paid a little extra for a 6 foot piece of barstock...also got 1144 stress relieved steel. Little higher carbon content, little bit harder surface. My old roller bar, while not bent, is half worn through! it was just over 20 dollars. We'll see how it works out.

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