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allicatguy

HB 112 starter/generator v-belt break

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allicatguy

Just started mowing 3/4 acre of TALL GRASS with the HB112 yesterday when the start/gen belt failed. (Naturally, it was the spare I'd put in place years ago with one end already looped around the drive shaft and tied off ready to go.) So here I am stuck in the Minnesota North Woods with no functional starter/generator.

Questions:

1. How long should I be able to run the tractor on a fully charged battery only?

2. Does anyone know a shortcut to installing the belt that doesn't require tearing off the top of the tractor to reach the drive shaft coupler?

You guys have been absolutely great with advice in the past...hope you can help again.

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B112_son

I did mine on my B112 last fall. I was able to remove the side panel and access the driveshaft coupler. It took some patience but I was able to move the driveshaft out of the way enough to squeeze the belt through.

If you need to move the driveshaft there is access hole under the frame at the yoke on the bgb. You can loosen the set screw and try to slide the drive shaft towards the rear of the tractor. They are usually pretty stubborn. Also don't forget to re tighten the set screw if you go this route.

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rokon2813

As long as your 112 still has the original points, it will run indefinitely. They only use battery power for starting and accessories (lights). Problem is getting it started ;)

All I ever pull to change that belt is the right side cover. It is a pain but can be done that way. Long needle nose pliers help to get the spacers back in place.

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powerking_one

+1 regarding Dan's (rokon2813) comment regarding the magneto ignition system. It will run till out of gas, then you might have to jump start it or rope pull it on the BGB pulley if it has that provision.

Tom (PK)

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CTD01

I dont believe the 112 has provisions for the pull start on the bgb. but i think the flywheel on the engine does. Never tried it before. Always wanted to make one that bolts onto the front crank pulley for this reason.

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RayS

It will do it with replacement points an a aftermarket nova ll. Had one 25 years ago that I jump started off the truck when the local auto parts store wanted $400 for a starter generator. Boy how things have changed since then.

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dentwizz

I would wrestle the new belt in, but it is a bothersome thing to get the spacers back in.

If you just want a temporary fix to get it back into working status, a product called link-belt can be threaded around and hooked together in minutes with the only adjustment being tension on the s/g bracket. I have done it in various places and it will work but not forever. Possibly a few months in that location under normal working duty, which is to say decent.

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allicatguy

Thanks. You guys never fail to respond with really helpful suggestions. Much appreciated.

I pulled the right and left side covers off tonight and immediately realized I have another problem. This HB112 is equipped with a hydraulic power lift...the old round tank type. With the extra pulleys to drive the pump there's scarce little room to squeeze the start/gen v-belt through even if the drive shaft could be loosened and shifted aside. So,unless there is some other magical fix, the hydraulic lift has to be removed as well. So I might as well pull the whole top off to fix this. I love this tractor, it's ruggedness, weight, power, etc. but, I sure don't like all the futzing around that it's going to take to replace a simple (but critical) v-belt. I understand why the engineers did it they way they did...but it sure would have been nice if they had put some forethought into how this belt is replaced once it fails in the field.

I intend to make this repair only one time as the years are catching up with me (66.) The parts book says the AC P/N for this belt is 157524...which I'm sure has been superseded by now. But given the advancement in belt technology since the 1960s I'm wondering if a better, longer lasting after market belt is available? Anybody know?

Also I'm going to install and tie off a spare belt like I did before.

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MikeES

I have started a B212 with a rope on the flywheel pulley. Put the rope in the notch and rotate the engine backwards by rotating the flywheel (you could use the front pulley if the tractor has one).

I just wrapped less than one turn, engine started on first pull. Did this with a friends pulling tractor...he thought the S/G was sucking horsepower.

BTW he said it did not make any difference. sm00

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dentwizz

With the hardware involved in a HB112 plus hydrolift, that would be a moose of a pull to get rolling without power. Hand starting my B-10 is easy enough, arguably easier than pulling my 10hp Briggs powered generator. The external pulley start on the front pto shaft would likely allow a bit more leverage/position if that was pursued. Certainly more convenient than the internal pulley.

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GrincheyOne
quote:Originally posted by CTD01

I dont believe the 112 has provisions for the pull start on the bgb. but i think the flywheel on the engine does. Never tried it before. Always wanted to make one that bolts onto the front crank pulley for this reason.


id="quote">
id="quote">Until my son had the S/G rebuilt, i used a length of clothesline wrapped on the front PTO pulley, about 2-3 turns. there is enough drag on the line to spin the engine, with the newly rebuilt engine one pull is all it took to get purring!dOd

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Glassonion

I just had the gen belt shred on my 3112V with Hydro lift about 10 minutes ago and came here to inquire if I was going to have to disassemble half the tractor to replace this silly thing.

Evidently, the answer is yes :(

Perhaps I'll try the link belt trick for now until I have the spare time to pull the top, the hydro, and replace both.

Any other handy tricks or is that pretty much where I'm at?

Thanks@!

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powerking_one

I believe the replacement procedure is not as complicated as others have posted in this thread. 1. Remove 2 of the bolts coupling the fiberglass flex disc to the flywheel adapter or drive shaft. 2. Loosen the Allen head set screw(s) at the BGB yoke flange (there is a hole in the frame allowing access to these). 3. Gently tap/pry the drive shaft rearwards to give you the 3/8" of clearance to change the belt. No need to go other extremes (like removing the engine) as I recall doing this many years ago at a J.D./Simplicity dealership.

Tom (PK)

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allicatguy

Thank you all for the great input. Just had trigger thumb release surgery yesterday. Doc says I'm off pulling wrenches for a month or more. Drat. I really wanted to get this belt replaced ASAP. Will try to remember to post results when repair is finally complete.

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allicatguy

Well, made it back to the cabin to face the 'hay field' again. Still not fully able to use my left hand for strenuous wrench pulling...but the grass has gotta get cut right? So, before this trip back up I bought some 3L (3/8") ACCU-LINK segmented belt off E-bay from an outfit called USA Bearing and Belt. Stuff's sold by the foot and it's not cheap...but I was able to get 4 feet for just over $25 including postage. The belt is supposed to be assembled inside out then twisted back into shape before installing on the pulleys. I tried that, but try as I might, (darn left hand) I could not get the belt to twist back into shape in the confined space left by the flywheel pulley and hydro-lift pulley. So I assembled the belt right side out (went okay) and placed it over the flywheel and start/gen pulleys. Tensioned everything up and it worked fine. Put over 3 hours on it mowing and spraying and, so far, all looks good. If it holds up I'm just going to leave it in place and not worry about replacing it with a conventional rubber v-belt. Sure is a lot easier than trying to finagle a solid belt through a confined space...or spliting the tractor apart. Patience isn't my strong suit these days.

Thank you guys for reminding me about the notch in the flywheel pulley. Should have remembered it myself but I was so teed off at the time. I tried it...and dog gone...it works. And you're right that ol' 12 horse pulls over a lot easier than my 10hp generator or 10hp brush chipper. It's good to know I have an alternative next time.

By the way, watch out for the antibiotic called Cipro. One of the side effects can be damage to the tendons in your joints. I've had it in my left thumb (surgery), right little finger (cortisone injection) ...and now it's starting in my right thumb. My surgeon says he sees it all the time...but regular docs don't understand the risk of using it evidently.

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dentwizz

My grandpa had to have that med a couple years ago and it was rough. Takes determination to work through it, that's for sure.

The good quality link belt systems have come along from what they were a couple years ago. The latest name brand series is claiming to be used anywhere a conventional v-belt can fit horsepowerwise. Perhaps worth the spare inventory to stock a couple feet in a roll instead of a hand full of belts to get out of a bind in the field.

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johnmonkey

I was thinking of the "link-belt" style belt so that you wouldn't have to remove the fiber disc...I know that they use them on some engine lathes and milling machines. JH

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