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hurleyii

916h tested in the field! FAIL!!!! :(

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hurleyii

B)

Well the smiley says it all!

It had some smoking on start up after I got it running several weeks ago or month whatever it was! I decided that before I did a full restore I should try and give it a test run and see what other possible issues she has!

Started off a little noisy but after a couple min she settled and purred like a kitten engine wise!

BGB was growling only when clutch not engaged I assumed it was extreme rust build up between clutch and the engaging pulley. Still not sure what it was.

After some time I gave it full throttle and she still ran great and better then my old faithful 912h I thought. I went to the next section to be mowed and was a half pass into it when the breather filter started blowing blue smoke and she started having some real power issues. I turned it around and headed for garage but she died quickly.

Looks as though the engine is seized up I don't understand how or why it could suddenly lock up with no nocking and plenty of oil!

I've yet to mess with it as I feel at this point I need garage space for this next operation!

I'm going to start with removing drive shaft in case it's BGB related though!

Also I've figured out that the front pto is engaged and the disengaging break pad material is gone which is why I believe it appeared to be missing parts or incorrectly installed! * ( I studied the front Pto that my 3415s came with last week to come to this answer and understand the assembly!) Suggestions on how to fix this problem??

I do need part numbers for the BGB rebuild as well along with best place to get parts, as all of my tractors need a BGB build after understanding what to look for!

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dentwizz

Things to check for that fail mode are compression related. If the engine still turns it means the crank journal is probably alright. If you get compression action the piston/rings are probably alright or saveable. If there is no compression, it means pulling the head to find what kind of nastyness is inside. It could be as simple as a connecting rod or as interesting as a shattered piston at the ring grooves, or as minor as a valve that jammed. I have had all of the above and they are all fixable.

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spi

You didn't mention if it seemed real hot. If the cooling fins were blocked it could seize with out making noise. As the engine gets hotter it would just loose power until it stopped .

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hurleyii

It did not seem overly hot and there was no warning at all that it was having trouble. Well maybe a 10 second warning. It did the same thing the 7112 has done several times but it always makes it to the house and I shut it off and it's fine. That was my thought that it was overheating. It wasn't near as hot as the 7112 has been when it does that.

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720nut

I had a T16 Homelite several years ago that was mowing fine, all of sudden it locked. I tore it down and PO had put something in oil that caused it to get hot and sieze, had to drive piston out of block it siezed the bearings really made a mess. May not be your problem but just what I've run into over the years. just my $.02

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hurleyii
quote:Originally posted by alec

does it turn over with the engine unhooked from the driveline ?


id="quote">
id="quote">I have not done anything to it yet as I wish to get my garage clean and install the parts on the 3415s first and get it up and running! I'll keep you guys up dated as I go.

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hurleyii
quote:Originally posted by dentwizz

1/4 inch sounds more like a rod end wedging. The soft term was the one that 'kept doing it'.


id="quote">
id="quote">Ok I had a feeling but wasn't sure on that. That would be the 7112 and it's never died before I shut it off.

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GLPointon

I have seen engines seize from heat, usually from a mouse nest in the shrouds blocking air flow to the cooling fins. If the tractor sits for awhile the mice always find there way in there!

I did a "how to" post on BGB rebuilds if interested...and I get my BGB parts from Partstree.com or Jack's or....

Partstree has good exploded views and parts lists, then I may go to E-bay or "Rokon" Dan has lots of NOS & used stuff too, & I always check our classifieds...Good luck sm01

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dentwizz

One very vital test on running engines is to feel the cooling air at the outlet of the head fins. If you can feel a good flow at 2-3 ft away it is usually alright. Less than that warrants a check. The other way to look at it is check it when it is verified clean and note what it feels like.

I have had plenty of cases where even general use in mowing can lead to a build up without mice nesting. The good news is the top shroud cover is fairly easy to take off with a couple head bolts and some small ones to take the junk out of the primary clog area.

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hurleyii

First I'm going Homer Simpson!! DOUGHHHH!!!!

There was a mouse nest that blew out when it started running the first time! I figured it all came out from what I saw! I'm guessing that's a negative!

On a second note I'm going to guess that the 7112h is over heating due to all the heat shrouds being removed before I became it's new owner??! If it blows enough air past that a mouse nest can cause an overheat to the point of a seized up engine it's logical if they are missing it will cause an overheat issue as well!

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dentwizz

Yes to both counts. I used to see generators all the time when I lived in a hurricane zone where people would say "It was rattling so much that we just left the cover off..." and sure enough they would overheat and die. Air cooled engines need all cowlings to make consistent flow to all areas of fins. Without them the fan is just blowing into oblivion. One side effect of the L-head engine is it is prone to hot spots more than an overhead valve or water cooled design, therefore making the cowling panels that much more critical.

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