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where to find orginal looking seat covers


landlord2210

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I'm trying to locate a orginal style seat cover for my 3112h anyone know where I can get one I don't want a "smooth tie on" style if I don't have to. If anyone know of a reupholster shop in the Grand Rapids mi area that would also help. It'd be nice if someone made reproduction seat covers.

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Ken's Custom Canvas...I've used him for boat seat cushions in the past, and he's a nice guy, reasonable prices. I don't have his card handy at the moment though...I post his number in a bit. I've also had Van's Upholstery do some work for me. They are on Division and 76th. (616) 455-1091

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Thanks for the question and feedback guys! I have also wanted a recover and would be curious to hear if anything comes of this. If it helps with the cost, I would chip in to add to a small batch and supply a pan or two, to have recovered.

Van's does great work...also, Root's south of town, in Plainwell. My old man has had boat covers done by both. I did reach out to them last year, regarding a snowcab recover, and both were 'too busy' for the small job, so seats may need to fit into when they slow down. I'm guessing they are slammed with boat work right now.

As an aside, see if you guys can make either of these events. There's a handful of us who would like to see the MI contingent have a meet n greet.

http://simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=146741

http://simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=146707

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Thanks I Googled upholstery before a few weeks ago but I figured I check here first for some sources. It'll be a few weeks before I have a chance to take my seat pan off my sovereign. My other seats don't have the original pattern anymore. I was thinking if I find a place like vans that does good work and can replicate the pattern right we could have 10 or so done and list them on ebay and just keep having them built as needed. That'll probably help keep the cost down to. What would a good price to pay be? What would they be worth? $50? $100? Maybe a Lil more. I guess I'd Wana know what people would reasonably pay for a new seat. I wouldn't resell for profit just what ever their cost to replace do it plus maybe $10-$20 for handling for running around getting them redone and shipping them.

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quote:Originally posted by landlord2210

Those links didn't work josh. Just said there was a problem


id="quote">
id="quote">they worked for me . you need to log in ( top right corner ) then it should work
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Ok, So Ken's number is 616-531-6410. He's just a guy that worked on the side out of his basement. He might not be interested in doing upholstery anymore, so if you're looking for someone to produce these for you, you're better off with Van's If you just want one, He might do it for you. He's getting on in years, and his health isn't so good anymore.

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Don Kaczanowski, down near me has a side business out of his shop and does car upholstery, etc. Maybe better luck with a small outfit vs one of the big shops?

(616) 681-9891

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Also wanted to get paint matched and have bottled in rattle cans and quarts and such. Just to cut the confusion and make it easier for people to restore these tractors and to do it right instead of trying to play a guessing game on what paint comes somewhat close to matching. But to do that we need someone that has some good examples of original paint. I heard there was a place in Grand Rapids that can mix paint and fill rattle cans from what I hear from a local body shop.

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I actually redid a few of the original pans myself. As long as you have the foam portion it is easy to get outdoor vinyl(I opted for marine grade). The hardest part is peeling the edge open to get the old vinyl and wire out.

Once it's out, clean and paint the seat pan as there will likely be rust under it. Stick the foam back on it once dry with some spray adhesive or rubber cement. Then cut a much larger portion of the new material than needed as the margin will help. In my installations I used a thread of automotive electrical wire(14awg) with insulation still on it to form the perimeter tuck-in form. As you go, push the wire into the channel and crimp the edge over the works. Where it gets interesting is the deeper corners where you can either form a stitch or just pleat it(which is what I do). By pleating it doesn't allow for as much hole penetration through the material and keeps water out of the padding. Once satisfied, take a razor and skim the remnant off around the formed lip to leave a metal edge and the actual seat face.

So far both examples that I have done are going on 9 yrs without a pull out or rip. Pix can be had if wanted :)

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quote:Originally posted by dentwizz

... Pix can be had if wanted :)


id="quote">
id="quote">I was thinking as I read your post, "I wish he had pics."^
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Image0159.jpg

I couldn't find the in process pics but this is the after on my dad's 2210 after I got done with a surprise xmas "overhaulin" resto a couple years ago.

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