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New to me 7114 with head gasket #4 out-idea's?


rickpilgrim

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So my friend at the salvage yard calls and asks if I want a 7114. PO claims this is the 4 th time the head gasket has failed in 2 yrs. I could not pass on a clean garage kept 7114H with powerlift for $100.

I'm thinking ahead here as it won't be delivered until Monday but what would cause 4 dealer installed head gaskets on that Kohler K321? The dealership gave a clean bill of health every $328.00 gasket change, ideas anyone?

PS- Iphone 6 won't let me post pics but will find a way

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sounds as if the head is warped or deck and dealer has only replaced gasket and made a fast buck. If head and deck were square I can't see why it would require 4 gaskets, Ild replace head bolts too. I deffinatly would not us that dealership. Just my $.02

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hi i agree, the heads are know for this issue, have the head resurfaced or replace with a good straight flat one.

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7100 single cylinder 12's & 14's were Kohler, as were the twins. 16 was a Briggs, unlesss it was an Allis, then it was a Kohler. Only those that know the secret handshake know why.

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Ok so somebody that knows the secret handshake needs to chime in and explain!

Also you didn't mention the Duetz Allis???

I mention Duetz cause I really really want one!

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quote:Originally posted by Ronald Hribar

Shouldn't that be a Briggs motor?


id="quote">
id="quote">7114H G.T. HP14 Product 1690723 Engine K321S Spec 60402** :D
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After talking to a few Kohler guys who all suggested to have the head milled flat about .020 minimum to .040 max, run a copper head gasket .036 thick and wire brush clean then strait edge the block before assembly. Probably use head studs also.

Other suggestions to cause are low octane fuel causing detonation, incorrectly set points causing detonation and running hot due to low rpm lugging or obstructed cooling.

Thanks everyone for the tips, and yes it is a Kohler K321 in this 7114H, but it has electric powerlift instead of the bulletproof hydraulic system

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  • 1 month later...

Update- after the local machine shop said they can't machine those aluminum Briggs and Kohler" thin as spaghetti" heads I located a K321 on c-list and swapped engines.

Thanks everyone!

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I never heard of a machine shop not being able to machine a head from any small engine. They probably just did not want to do the job.

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You don't "machine" the head.You use a surfacing machine,It's like a BIG upside down belt sander with water and a flat plate.Takes about 30 seconds.just lay it on the plate,and pick it up.If the sanding is even'it's flat. BTW if a shop had the b---s to charge me $328 to change a head gasket on a Kohler single.they'd sure as h--l do the next 3 for free.

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quote:Originally posted by Ronald Hribar

What was 14 hp Briggs used in?


id="quote">
id="quote">From 1979 to 1981 they used Briggs and in 1982 they started using Kohlers until 1987 when the 14hp was dropped from the series.
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quote:Originally posted by oldsarge

You don't "machine" the head.You use a surfacing machine,It's like a BIG upside down belt sander with water and a flat plate.Takes about 30 seconds.just lay it on the plate,and pick it up.If the sanding is even'it's flat. BTW if a shop had the b---s to charge me $328 to change a head gasket on a Kohler single.they'd sure as h--l do the next 3 for free.


id="quote">
id="quote">I honestly think with all the engines stacked from the front door 35' to the shop with work tags on them the shop just took one look a what I wanted and blew me off.
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You can use a LARGE bastard file to do the work yourself. Use a steel ruler to check your progress. Work from all sides after you get the major warp filed out. If you happen to have a flat plate of some kind you can use some sandpaper to get started. It takes more time than a shop to do it yourself but I've done it several times with success. Also check to make sure the threads in the block are OK and not stripped. I had a Onan NHC in my skid steer that pulled the threads out of the block. Studs are an excellent option IMO.

Ken

PS, if you have a woodworking friend that has a large disk or belt sander that will speed the process.

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If you go with the flat plate method...

Use a sharpie or something to color the head all over. Then get yourself a piece of 1/4" glass. tape some 220 wet dry sandpaper to the glass. Slide the head back and forth over the sandpaper until the marker is gone. aluminum will sand pretty easily. Shouldn't take too much. The marker is a like a guide coat when your painting. It sands off the high spots first, and you can see where the problems are.

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quote:Originally posted by Mike_H

If you go with the flat plate method...Use a sharpie or something to color the head all over. Then get yourself a piece of 1/4" glass. tape some 220 wet dry sandpaper to the glass. Slide the head back and forth over the sandpaper until the marker is gone. aluminum will sand pretty easily. Shouldn't take too much. The marker is a like a guide coat when your painting. It sands off the high spots first, and you can see where the problems are.


id="quote">
id="quote">This is what I did when I did both gaskets on my CH18, although I used spray layout fluid. A sharpie will accomplish the same end results.
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My NOS Kohler K321 head arrived today(eBay) so when I get some time I'll put that engine back together with new rings and a fresh hone and spare long block for either of the 7114H's around here.

Thanks to all of you with your good advise

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make sure it isnot running lean or out of time (points gap and valve lash ) have a customers 321 here that he had burt a hole in two heads beforehe brought it to us

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