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720nut

620 charging

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720nut

Need help relocated regulator and rectifer and gauge needle pegs on gauge. Thought by relocating it might solve my problem or is one or other bad ?

charge 002.JPG

charge 003.JPG

Sorry flash on gauge makes it hard to see

57e05a674008d_charge002.JPG.0d0b5e54cbd8344529c27d0b6406b259.JPG

57e05a674b700_charge003.JPG.0f1b2f851cfe14aca086d17091b5b1d6.JPG

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powerking_one

So, what was your reasoning for relocating the regulator and rectifier in the first place? As I recall, on the CCKB, the Syncro modules were fairly accessible on the outside of the blower housing (unlike the Prestolite module under the flywheel on the CCKA).

Do both modules have good ground connections to the electrical system? My first thought is the regulator is not grounded and the stator/rectifier is dumping full current through the regulator. Most of these regulators are shunt type (in that excess power/current is dumped to ground to maintain the target battery full charge voltage.

I wouldn't be running it in this state very long unless you want a boilng over blown up battery to go along with the charging problem.

Tom (PK)

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720nut

Both were loose under motor and somewhere I've seen apost on relocating it to make more accessible. As for a good ground I'm unsure will run ground from mounting block to engine. This is why I'm asking I'm not an electricion,deffinately not one of my strong points.

Ok run ground to engine still same, rana ground from rectifier and still the same. Was hoping to get it to charge but guess Ill put on Johns alternator fix and be done with it.

Will I have to remove the complete charging system or can I just unplug regulator and rectifier ? Really don't want to pull engine.

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phillobbezoo

Hey Lloyd I just unhooked the regulator and rectifier on mine, but know since I'm in the proces of putting a new ignition module I pulled the stator off no reason to leave it on with the alternator

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midnightpumpkin

Here is a link to a troubleshooting guide for the onan charging system that was written by the late Al Edens.

http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/portal_External.asp?LinkID=150&LinkName=Troubleshooting%20Onan%20Charging%20Systems&CatID=30&CatTitle=Electrical&URL=

Lloyd, i would say your red wire from your stator is open or your regulator is bad. did the charging system work before you relocated the rectifier/regulator?

John U

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720nut

Thanks Phil, did yours peg the needle too? Whats the # on the alternator you used ? Been wanting to put loader on but don't want it in the way till I get it sorted out.

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720nut

John I really don't know if it worked or not, this is on my 620 which was a basket case when I bought it. Probably should have sorted all of this out before I painted but live and learn as they say.

I've got to admit best 10 bucks I've ever spent, learned so much from you guys since I became a member can't thank everyone enough

THANKS ALL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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phillobbezoo

Lloyd go on eBay and search mini alternator mine is a single wire 35 amp, the first 2 that come up are the same as what I used I think it measures 4 by 4,5 inches I think , Right now I'm in the process of switching mine over to run full time off the front of the pto pulley trying to find the right pulley

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720nut

Phil I have a hub with pulley to run hyd. pump am just going to build another hub and pulley for alternator. Something like Johns setup.

As for pulley size I'm beleiving that it should be a little larger than alternator. if you look at your car crank pulley is larger. This is just my thoughts on it.

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by Ronald Hribar

When putting on external alternatorand assuming 3600 engine rpmwhat should the rpm of the alternator be 3600?


id="quote">
id="quote">If you want max performance, the alternator has a max speed of about 8000 RPM. I looked at a Delco 5 and 7 SI curve and there bodies are about the same as the pictures shown in this thread.

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720nut

Yeah Bob I'm not good on electical but I will post pics as I do this. I'll start a new thread. I know several others have posted regarding this topic but I'll do so to. I purchased a 3.5in. pullry for crank ane I think alt. is 2.5in. don't know what that translate as far as RPM but we shall see. Were going north this weekend so first of week we'll see what we can do

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by 720nut

Yeah Bob I'm not good on electical but I will post pics as I do this. I'll start a new thread. I know several others have posted regarding this topic but I'll do so to. I purchased a 3.5in. pullry for crank ane I think alt. is 2.5in. don't know what that translate as far as RPM but we shall see. Were going north this weekend so first of week we'll see what we can do


id="quote">
id="quote">Lloyd always divide drive pulley diameter by driven pulley diameter. In your case 3.5 + 2.5 = 1.4 ratio step up or 3600 * 1.4 = 5040 generator RPM and that could get about 35A charge on 40A alt and about a 45A charge on a 50-60A alt. I am making these assumptions based on Delco 5 and 7 SI output curves that I have.

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BLT

Another thing I would recommend is tossing ammeter and installing voltmeter. An ammeter tells you where amps are going, wherein a voltmeter tells the condition of whole electrical system. If your VM shows between 13 and 14 volts when engine is running, that's all you have to worry about.

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BLT

The voltmeter takes current to function, milliamps. Given time it will tax the battery and that could be six months or more, I haven't a clue. What you do is remove the wires from the ammeter, connect them with a small nut and bolt, the tape them off with electrical tape. You can then tap off the ignition stud of the ignition switch for your (+) wire and then run a ground wire to connect the voltmeter. The draw is so minimal, it won't interfere with the ignition circuit.

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