OrangeMetalGuy 37 Posted August 30, 2015 Tractor wasn't charging again, so I replaced the ammeter with a new voltmeter from AutoZone (yes, the ammeter wires are spliced together and the voltmeter is wired to the terminal strip that becomes hot when the ignition is switched on). Under $20 and fits perfectly.It's lighted too which will help with those nighttime snowplowing events.Should have done this a long time ago, and I think I'll do my other tractor as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dentwizz 6 Posted August 30, 2015 Classy. I've wanted to do that for a while but never seem to have the budget past overhauls. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alltractoredup 292 Posted September 1, 2015 Good idea, should have been done that way from the start Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BLT 718 Posted September 1, 2015 Welcome to the 21st century. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
720nut 4,225 Posted September 1, 2015 I plan to do same as soon as I get time and locate good gauge, probably use autometer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishnwiz 3,290 Posted September 1, 2015 Sweet mod! How come nobody here seems to have time to do these mods? I thought I was the only one with these issues. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BLT 718 Posted September 1, 2015 Done five tractor's so far with VM's, four Sov class and a 101 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
720nut 4,225 Posted September 1, 2015 Hey Bob you come to Michigan and do mine? Till grass stops growing little time to do anything, then if we're lucky snow. Business first Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
landlord2110 41 Posted September 1, 2015 Whats the autozone part #? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BLT 718 Posted September 1, 2015 quote:Originally posted by landlord2110Whats the autozone part #? id="quote">id="quote">I'm guessing this. http://www.autozone.com/gauges-and-gauge-accessories/amp-volt-gauge/equus-chrome-bezel-mechanical-voltmeter-gauge/255973_0_0/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dentwizz 6 Posted September 1, 2015 quote:Originally posted by fishnwizSweet mod!How come nobody here seems to have time to do these mods? I thought I was the only one with these issues. id="quote">id="quote">A couple years ago I put an hour meter on my B210. Still have to do that to the HB116, but it is stuffing engine overhauls in between revenue work and property maint(yes they both get to work for thier keep) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanD 9 Posted September 1, 2015 I think this one looks awesome....except for the price!!! http://www.autometer.com/2-voltmeter-8-19-volts-digital.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
720nut 4,225 Posted September 2, 2015 Neat but little to new for me. I don't want mine in the digital age, just me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
landlord2110 41 Posted September 11, 2015 Tried the new voltmeter from autozone, dont work for landlord2110 with key turned to start the generator cranking. Would this make a difference vs the push button starter button? Any other ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
landlord2110 41 Posted September 11, 2015 Forgot to add-when turn key to start, meter goes to 12v but not cranking. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dentwizz 6 Posted September 11, 2015 The volt meter would have a different characteristic which is that it does not want to be fed-through like the ammeter would. The ammeter was passing voltage through to the generation/starting system whereas the volt meter should be wired parallel to the ammeter. Or at least that's my understanding of it... The start-button system would not involve solenoid wiring and therefore be a little simpler, but the same idea applies. Wire it through with a wire joining the ammeter terminals(if deleted) and put one terminal of the volt meter to the joint and one to chassis/battery ground. That should work fine. And it should show 12v with no engine activity. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike_H 92 Posted September 11, 2015 I think changing to a voltmeter from an ammeter, you could just take the two wires that were connected to the ammeter, connect them to the same post on the voltmeter, then attach a wire from the other post on the voltmeter to ground or neg batt terminal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dentwizz 6 Posted September 11, 2015 Yes, that would work as a junction point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill725 1,176 Posted September 12, 2015 An ammeter measures current and is wired in line. A voltmeter measures power and is wired across the positive and negative. They are wired different from each other. What good is an ammeter anyway? I never looked at mine. The most common electrical issue is a dead battery and an ammeter can't predict when that will happen. I diagnose a dead battery using a hand held voltmeter. So, I replaced my ammeter with an oil temperature gauge, a very useful gauge and look ay it often. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Simplicity7013H 95 Posted September 12, 2015 I personally like ammeters better. But, after reading this VM's are starting to grow on me. I love how the gauge lights up. I have a NOS Stewart Warner ammeter that has a hole and a little light in the back but, its only numbers are 0 and 50. Good job fitting a VM in your tractordOd Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CarlH 419 Posted September 12, 2015 The voltmeter from a Sunstar is illuminated and fits a Sovereign perfectly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dentwizz 6 Posted September 12, 2015 If I had the choice I would have both volt and amps. The volts give the condition of the battery but the amps gives a real read of how the loads are working(like a shorted power lift or general overload). The place where it falls short is when the battery is fully charged it will read zero, the same as a generator that is dead. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BLT 718 Posted September 12, 2015 quote:Originally posted by dentwizzIf I had the choice I would have both volt and amps. The volts give the condition of the battery but the amps gives a real read of how the loads are working(like a shorted power lift or general overload). The place where it falls short is when the battery is fully charged it will read zero, the same as a generator that is dead. id="quote">id="quote">The voltmeter tells you the same thing. Without a load and with engine running at least 3/4 speed, make note of the voltage, then start turning load on the system. If the needle stays constant, the generator is doing its job. This is based on how the tractor was shipped and nothing has been added to the electrical system. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dentwizz 6 Posted September 12, 2015 True enough, but given the choice I would do both. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
landlord2110 41 Posted September 16, 2015 Just got the new key switch, got voltmeter hooked up &works great. Thanks to all for the help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites