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littlemarv

Different color, same engine

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littlemarv

My father has a JD L130 with a Kohler Command 23 horse. I've been told the L series trannys won't go over 500 hours, especially if you blow snow. Well, he uses it to blow snow, and sure enough at 400 odd hours the tranny puked. So he replaced that to the tune of $800. Now the other day he was mowing and the plastic drain cap fell off the engine and all the oil fell out. I don't think he shut it down in time cause it makes horrible noises now. At any rate, I have to fix it cause we can't scrap it.

So now I get to learn about a Command. Anything I should look for , or know about, or do while I'm in there?

Are parts reasonable, is it worth rebuilding, or just swap it out?

Thanks in advance.

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B112_son

Not gonna be a lot of help on the engine but I had a L130 I sold this spring. I mowed my 1/2 acre flat lot with it. Actually not a bad mowing machine but it started slowing down around 350 hrs and I had the same concerns about the rear end.

There are actually usually a couple parts L130/120 by me. People parting out cause rear end or deck is shot. I would keep an eye out for something like that. Not many people are going to pay to fix the rear end when it goes out and whole parts machines by me can be had for $100-$200 with running Kohlers.

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SmilinSam

I just paid $500 for a cv23 out of a L130 to swap into my Prestige. Hope its good, will be running it tonight hopefully. Would have been nice to find a $200 donor tractor, but none out there at the moment.

The simplicity has the oil sentry low oil shut down on it so it got swapped into the Deere engine along with the oil cooler.

I noticed the cheap plastic twist drain cap on the deere engine. It got removed and the Simplicity hose assembly put on.

Don't know how Deeres reputation can hold up with the Deere box store tractors having reviews like these...

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/homeowners/deere.html?page=2

If you read all the pages in that link, I don't know that you or your dad will want to fix it.

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Talntedmrgreen

Boy, I don't know Ryan. I'd be trying to steer my old man another direction by this point...I know that can be a heavy rock to roll. Hopefully you can get her running cheap...otherwise, it sounds like that new tranny is in hot demand ;)

He needs somethin like this...

http://madison.craigslist.org/grd/5114725448.html

It's nearly end of season...can he use one of your old beasts to knock the grass and leaves down, while shopping for a pre-winter deal? I just got into a 430hr Prestige for $600...one of those 'riding mower' craigslist ads with no pics. Fastest ATM withdrawal I've ever made. :I

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littlemarv

Well, other than this, I don't really see anything wrong in there,

IMG_20150904_221730124_zpseqemiwak.jpg

I suppose the lack of oil made the rod get hot and expand, seizing onto the crank and snapping the rod. The crank looks horrible, but I think the aluminum transfer could be cleaned off with acid. The other rod is sloppy. I took the other rod cap off, the bolts loosened up strangely, it is galled as well. Who knows the extent of the damage. With both rods unhooked, I think the crank turns just a little too hard. Time to abort, I think.

I just can't see fixing this one when there are a few L130s around with junk trannys.

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Brettw

That's too bad, it looks pretty clean in there. A failed drain plug caused this? What a shame. I'm done here in the MIlwaukee area and can keep a lookout for you for a replacement Command if you wish. Or something in Orange......:D

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littlemarv

Well, after sleeping on it, and looking for replacement engines and parts tractors this morning, maybe a repair is in order! I think I will make up a parts list and see what it comes to at my kohler dealer. I'm thinking two rods, an oil pump, ring set, and gasket set, for starters.

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littlemarv

Well, I hauled the motor downstairs for three important reasons.

1. 30% less humidity.

2. 20 degrees cooler.

3. One flight of stairs and 50 steps closer to the beerfridgerator.

Tore it all down,

IMG_20150905_224343877_HDR_zpsk9p8acz3.jpg

The flywheel key is sheared. The end of the rod bolt is wedged in the block by the cam bore. But, unfortunately, the nail in the coffin is I see evidence of piston to valve contact. I set the head on those cups, and poured Marvel Mystery Oil in both the intake and exhaust ports. Sure enough, its seeping around the exhaust valve. Valves are bent. So, I was at $350 in parts with just my list from above. If we add a piston and head, we are going to be zooming past $500. Time to look at other options.....

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littlemarv

Well, I hauled the motor downstairs for three important reasons.

1. 30% less humidity.

2. 20 degrees cooler.

3. One flight of stairs and 50 steps closer to the beerfridgerator.

Tore it all down,

IMG_20150905_224343877_HDR_zpsk9p8acz3.jpg

The flywheel key is sheared. The end of the rod bolt is wedged in the block by the cam bore. But, unfortunately, the nail in the coffin is I see evidence of piston to valve contact. I set the head on those cups, and poured Marvel Mystery Oil in both the intake and exhaust ports. Sure enough, its seeping around the exhaust valve. Valves are bent. So, I was at $350 in parts with just my list from above. If we add a piston and head, we are going to be zooming past $500. Time to look at other options.....

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    • thedaddycat

      thedaddycat  »  SmilinSam

      It's in pretty sad shape, but yes I have a yellow plastic cap that I'm fairly certain is what you need. PM me your details and I'll get it out to you.
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