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timflury

New Suspension under the Tow-Bee

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timflury

Alright trailer experts, My Tow-Bee trailer is of the 1100# capacity variety. I am in the market for a complete suspension rebuild. It currently has four leaf springs under it and iirc, the mounting brackets are 29"? apart. I've been periodically checking Northern Tool and some trailering shops for hardware and I haven't found quite the right weight capacity springs. I see springs even though they are four leaf, the springs are different thicknesses, thus giving different weight capacities.I recently put a pair of 5.70x8 Hi Run tires on it, and the trailer has 1" axles. I already realize that I will be welding in some new gussets AND spring mounts, so I'm not too concerned about the length of the springs, I just want something similar to what's on there for weight capacity.So, if the axles are 1000# capacity? then do I find 1000" capacity springs???

20130714_174824.jpg

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timflury

Ok, so I'm guessing that they could rebuild/re-arch my originals????

I'll have to give them a holler during business hours, or even shoot them an email with photos and my project details.dOddOd

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isetta

Those springs don't look so bad in the pics. If the new springs are a little longer or shorter likely your shackles will just swing a little forward or back to match up with that length. I had good luck with Richfieldtrailer.com and they have a physical store here in Grand Rapids with all the parts. Also did similar research about spring / axle capacity here:

https://www.etrailer.com/question-42321.html

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timflury
quote:Originally posted by oldsarge

With the way that frame is rusted,I don't think I'd worry about the axle!!!OO


id="quote">
id="quote">Have no fear, that was a "before" photo.http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=127794&whichpage=2&SearchTerms=Tow-bee

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dentwizz

Reminds me of when I got my 5x8 tilter. It was a rust ghost behind the guy's truck. Until I painted it yellow people would rear end me in traffic(with lights on).

Its funny you mentioned being nose-heavy after the redo. I ended up the same way once my frame and tongue gussets were done, so I added a set of tail tower triangles that could receive a crossbar safety member. Usually I don't use it, but the triangles are enough to keep the tail down if pushed but only if pushed.

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Talntedmrgreen

I also use Ritchfield for just about everything...they are one of our fleet garage's primary shopping stops, so I get some sort of discount when I show my work badge. Lately all I've needed are LP refills, and they knock off 20%!

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timflury
quote:Originally posted by isetta

Anyway after all that work you are just now getting to rebuild the suspension, is that right?


id="quote">
id="quote">Yes. The strap on the RH spring is missing and the bushings are worn out.Also, the perches where the springs are attached are in need of some new gusset material and new mounting hardware.If anyone knows how quickly (sarcasm) I get around to things, I'm more than likely to start tearing things apart in the spring of ____ (Fill in the year)The trailer as it sits right now is safe to use for my application. Remember, the rated load for this is 1100#As far as the tilt mechanism goes, I am installed a PAIR of Western trip plow springs under the deck. While the trailer is attached to the truck, I back the tractor up until the trailer tilts, I set the parking brake on the tractor and I lower the tongue jack to hold the deck in the tilted position, then I back the rest of the way down off the tilted bed. I reverse the process when reloading.So, do I get the 700# springs? http://www.richfieldtrailer.com/products-page/20-spring/

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dentwizz

I haven't looked in a while but a time ago there was a place offering gas lift struts(like a tailgate or hood concept) made for dump trailer usage that seemed like a simple idea for the task. When in the level position it would be neutral or over-center and stay but when tilted anything off level it would push to full tilt.

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timflury

Given the fact that the trailer comes with the optional winch, I'm going to say that the deck of the trailer is nose heavy.

Truth is, it should be nose heavy with or without the added winch otherwise the trailer would sway.

I saw a clip from "Wheeler Dealers" on Velocity channel where their vehicle trailer actually had something along the lines of a bottle jack at the front of the bed to tilt it. Nice ideas, but I'm trying to keep the trailer as close to original as possible, yet safe to operate.

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dentwizz

The difference between nose heavy when empty or neutral/slightly tailheavy when empty is almost unnoticable in terms of sway. Where it becomes a big factor is the loaded balance.

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