Poor mans power steering

[tweinke]

Did the thrust bearing upgrade over the weekend. I didn't take any pictures because I figured that has already been done. Had to shorten the top of the right side of the axel. I used 1 1/2 wheel cylinder cups with a hole cut to fit the axel and slide on. They cover the thrust bearings beautifully. I am happy with the outcome, steers easier and with all new bushings the slop is gone from the steering.

[rich_kildow]

Glad to hear you like it. I did mine recently and wasn't overly impressed with the change in steering ease, but it may not have been that bad to begin with.

[tweinke]

Definitely not power steering but its easier. I was always curious how much of a change it would make. I'm thinking if a guy made a new tie rod with hiem joints or such it may help with steering effort.

[Talntedmrgreen]

Where I've noticed best improvement, is when using something out front...a blower, broom, loader etc. Simply cleaning out old grease can sometimes have more of an effect on a light front end as the PMPS upgrade can, but that front end can really bind regardless of lube with 150+lbs hanging off the front. I feel the PMPS upgrade eliminates that effect. I add this to most of my machines, merely to reduce front end wear.

[tweinke]

I fully agree with that. As I see it any improvement in ease of steering has to help prevent wear on all related components. I am very happy with the outcome I had

[Mike_H]

I'm going to second Josh's comment about 40 years of built up gunk increasing effort. I have a 7016 that was very hard to steer...I took it to the carwash, and hosed it down with engine form...let it set, then sprayed the goo off. Steering is so much easier now, its unbelievable. I think the dirt builds up in the pinion/steering gear interface, and causes the two components to bind (due to the taper).

[dentwizz]

Heim ends are a direct replacement for the drag link and worth every penny. The tierod between the wheels is a little more custom to make a heim assembly but it is also worth it. I keep meaning to add it to the thrust bearing mod, but have to find the time...

[bigcat19]

quote:Originally posted by tweinke

Did the thrust bearing upgrade over the weekend. I didn't take any pictures because I figured that has already been done. Had to shorten the top of the right side of the axel. I used 1 1/2 wheel cylinder cups with a hole cut to fit the axel and slide on. They cover the thrust bearings beautifully. I am happy with the outcome, steers easier and with all new bushings the slop is gone from the steering.

---

id="quote">

id="quote">How does it look with the 1 1/2" wheel cylinder cups? I did the PMPS too but haven't done anything with protecting the thrust bearings. The PMPS really helps when you have a snow blower hanging off the front end that's for sure and glad I took the time and little money to do it!

[tweinke]

To me it looks like they belong there. Being the end of the axel is 1 1/8 and the bearings are 1 1/4 the cups cover the bearings and only stick up maybe 1/4 inch. The only tough part is cutting the hole. I will try to get some pictures posted.

[PhanDad]

On my recent PMPS install, I used tweinke's wheel cylinder cup "dust seal" instead of a bicycle inner tube that I've used in the past. I think they look fine:

A pic of the inner tube "dust seal":

The inner tube "dust seal" does cut with time, but still provides some protection. The wheel cylinder cups, since they are made of thick rubber, should last forever. Tweinke, as you said, cutting the hole is a bear. What did you use to cut the hole? I used a 1 1/8" forstner bit. The hardest part is keeping the cap from turning without distorting it.

 

Edited May 31, 2019 by PhanDad
removed extra pics

[tweinke]

I did it the cave man way, lol. I used the heaviest exacto knife blade and a piece of tubing for a guide. Was a bear to cut a nice round hole. Never thought of trying a Forstner bit. I still have all my digits so all is good.

[B10Dave]

Bill and Todd; if you get yourself a piece of steel tubing the right diameter you can grind a sharp taper on the end. Place cup on a piece of wood. Center the pipe on the cup and whack it with a dead blow hammer. Instant proper size hole for cheap.....Dave

[tweinke]

That would be the hot ticket. Looked in my gasket punch set,did not go that big no tubing on hand the correct size so I improvised. No fingers lost but if there is a next time...........

[thom]

I set a socket with the correct o.d. , centered it in the cup and whacked the crap out of it with my big hammer.

[Tarheel]

 I have a 7117 with an 18 Magnum in it. Maybe not the best example for this as it has a tiller on the back and no deck to add weight under it. I was getting a bit put out over fighting the steering to turn at the end of the rows.. I have the parts for PMPS but was holding that for another 7117 that I do mow with.

 The dried grease remarks are spot on. Not much of a problem on the king pins, But a good bit bigger deal in the steering shaft/gears.

 I removed the steering wheel and dash cover and sprayed all moving parts with carb cleaner with the front wheels lifted off the ground. I worked the steering until I felt it loosen and then soaked it all down with 30 weight.
 That was 2 or 3 years ago and out of 12 or 13 Running board, BGB tractors, this is still the easiest to steer. Your mileage may vary,

[AC710]

On 9/30/2015 at 8:12 AM, Mike_H said:

I think the dirt builds up in the pinion/steering gear interface, and causes the two components to bind (due to the taper).

No one has mentioned the steering gear lower-bushing rehab, but here's one thing to easily check. Un bolt the drag link and then try turning the steering wheel. If it's tight, it is likely the bushing at the lower end of the steering shaft needs lube (at least). Some have suggested spraying lube so it runs down the shaft to the bushing, but I have found it necessary to take the mounting apart to clean off rust and corrosion, adjust and lube it. You have to pull the steering shaft to do this, but it does wonders!

If you want to do the whole enchilada steering project, here is a link.

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/65691-steering-box-rehab-recovered-peppydan-article/?tab=comments#comment-524770

 

 

[Bill725]

I have had issues with trying to keep the dirt out of the spindle thrust bearings on tractors I use in the garden. I stopped using them. But I like (2) thrust washer between the spindle and axle. Also, replaced the steel bushing at the bottom of the steering shaft with a needle bearing. Works great. There is a post somewhere here by @ShaunEof I think @PeppyDanpost.

[AC710]

45 minutes ago, Bill725 said:

There is a post somewhere here by @ShaunEof I think @PeppyDanpost.

The link I posted above is the peppydan post

[MikeES]

On 9/30/2015 at 5:02 AM, rich_kildow said:

Glad to hear you like it. I did mine recently and wasn't overly impressed with the change in steering ease, but it may not have been that bad to begin with.

I have 2 pretty much identical tractors a 917 and a 7119, both have M20 engines.  Years ago I installed the PMPS in the 917 and did not notice a change in the steering effort, I have compared the tractors with the snow thrower attached to each and I cannot feel any difference between them.   

I have since changed the front tires on the 7119 and THAT made a huge difference and steers much easier than the 917, plus it does not tear up the lawn and it steers great on snow and ice with the snow thrower attached.

[dhoadley]

18 hours ago, MikeES said:

...I have since changed the front tires on the 7119 and THAT made a huge difference and steers much easier than the 917...

What tires did you change to?

[MikeES]

Here are a couple of pictures, I have found this combo works great on grass and also on snow.  I can steer with the snowthrower on with down pressure.

Front are Hi-Run 2-ply 16x6.5-8,  Rear are Carlisle All Trail 4 ply 23x10.5-12

They are much more rounded than the Carlisle Turf Saver, more like the old Goodyears that use to come on these tractors. 

 

[CarlH]

Another thing that improves the steering is running higher pressure in front.  IIRC, the snowblower installation says 20 PSI.