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dhoadley

I won... barely

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dhoadley

I was messin' around with the Broadmoor (Leaking carb, rebuilt, leaks worse) when the end of the muffler fell/blew off. Well, I have another muffler right there; I'll just swap 'em. PB Blaster, pipe wrench with cheater bar, sledge hammer & chisel, repeat. It was touch and go for awhile,but as littlemarv says, "the mechanic always wins".

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BLT

Next time you run into this , cut off the pipe to where there is about a 1/8 -1/4" and then with a hacksaw blade , cut 4 hacksaw marks at 90 degrees, then tap in the pipe as it collapses and come right out. :D

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dhoadley
quote:Originally posted by 720nut

Looks like you've got a new project ?


id="quote">
id="quote">Yeah, I've done a search and I'll be trying the "Q-tip in the hand-drill & rogue" polish up in the hole where the float plug seats. The rebuild kit comes with so many extra pieces I was thinking of trying to stick a tiny O-ring up there. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanx, Dave

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dhoadley

Now, on to the leaking carb. When I rebuilt it, it leaked worse than ever. I took it apart, prepared to try the old rogue-on-a-Qtip-in-a-hand-drill trick. I found that the float plug... (exhibit A)

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sat too far down (or is it up?) the tube. (exhibit B)

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My bag of parts is at my other property, about a mile away. Would it have come with a longer plug? I remember seeing a tiny rubber o-ring. Does that go in the bottom (top) of the tube? Thank God for this site and you guys. Dave

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fishnwiz

Looks to me like the rubber float seal is not in the bottom of the needle hole. There should be a tan colored rubber ring that is inserted into the bottom of the needle valve hole. The rubber part has rings on one side of it and that side faced downward into the needle hole. Use the backside of the correct size drill bit to push the valve seat into the bottom of the hole and be sure it is sitting flush in the bottom with ring side down.

There are two types of needle valves with one like the one you have pictured that is all metal and the other needle has a rubber tip and does NOT use a rubber needle valve seat in the bottom of the needle hole. You need to pay attention when you remove the needle during a rebuild on what type needle you have.

When rebuilding the type carb that uses the all metal needle valve,you need to be sure to remove the old rubber valve seat from the bottom of the needle hole. This is done by either using a small drill bit pushed into the old seat with the bit between your thumb and forefinger and by pulling the rubber seat out of the hole or by using an air compressor and shooting air into the fuel inlet on the carb, forcing the seat out of the hole. I place a finger over the needle hole to prevent the rubber seat from flying out of the hole when using the air pressure method.

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dhoadley

I don't think I got the right o-ring or maybe even the right rebuild kit. This is all the seal kind of things left.

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Would anyone have a pic or part # of what I need? Would my local dealer have just the seal? Thanx, Dave

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MrSteele

The green :seal thing" is the seat for the needle you have shown earlier. If you look at both sides, you will notice that one has a small molded in groove. That side goes toward the float, as best I remember. Without it, the needle falls all the way into the seat, but will never seal. That is why you cannot stop the gas flow. The other two washers will fit on the mixture needle at the bottom of the carburetor. One should be metal, the other fiber or rubber. Fiber or rubber goes against the carburetor body

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powerking_one

To me, that looks like a Tecumseh needle and seat that was in it, or you are trying to install into a Briggs carb; it will never work. Did you order the correct B&S PN kit for this specific model engine?

Tom (PK)

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powerking_one

Glad that video helped you fix your push mower BLT. Since this is a vintage 7 or 8 HP Briggs medium Flo-Jet carb judging by the picture Dave posted earlier, along with the needle/seat pics he's trying to use, I'll stick with my previous post opinion.

Tom (PK)

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dhoadley

PK, I searched with my engine # in hand and ordered the rebuild kit indicated. Its B&S. Went by my local dealer (Giant Oak Power Equip No. Branford, CT) with carb, bags full of parts and engine # and they pointed to that tiny green o-ring and said "that's your valve seat". :I I'll reassemble and install this weekend. Thanx, Dave

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powerking_one

Dave,

I've looked at some picture of the parts in the rebuild kit PN 394698 and most show the 2 different types of float valves. The one for your carb is the earlier/larger diameter rubber tipped type. Looking at one of your previous pictures, clearly the needle is way too small and just flopping around in the brass seat. My bad for assuming B&S changed over to the aluminum float valve with the pressed in rubber seat on later carbs. I think "fishnwiz Mark" pointed this out in an earlier post. Mouse over the eBay pic below to see the different float valves. The 2nd listing below shows what a Tecumseh float valve and seat look like; hence referring back to my 1st post.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Kit-Briggs-Stratton-394698-299852-Replacement-2884-/200862752919?hash=item2ec45a6097:m:mOkhbzMGRC-xZ_rybtY6Waw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Float-Valve-Kit-With-Bowl-Gaskets-Replaces-Tecumseh-631021B-631021A-631021-/170855337737?hash=item27c7c58f09:g:Ir8AAOxyjP1R1EkW

Tom (PK)

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littlefan

there are two types of needle valves one all metal with a rubber oring seat and one with a rubber tip if seen side by side they are not the same diameter the all metal needle is smaller that is what you have what you need is the one with the rubber tip it is larger and will fit the hole better then the loose one in there now

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dhoadley

I appreciate all the input. It looked like what I was given didn't fit "right", but I'm still new to this and have much to learn (young grasshopper). I just ordered a couple (I have 2 Broadmoors that will eventually need 2 carbs) of B&S part #299096 float valves that look like what I need. Thanx again, Dave

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