6212.5 with new belts

[lampoulos]

Has anyone else had a problem getting full ground speed out of the variator on a 6200 series tractor after replacing the drive belts? I put factory replacements on but the variator won't swing all the way to allow full ground speed in any gear. The variator itself is in good shape and swings freely with no belts installed. The shive also moves side to side freely. Knowing that they're factory replacements what am I supposed to change them out for if the dimentions aren't right?

[steve-wis]

My Allis T816 has the variator like the 6216. I put new belts on it also. One, the one with the cog teeth, was an original equipment, the other I used an industrial green belt. It seems to work just fine. I would make sure that the sliding sheave parts are not worn much. If they are, they will slide easy without belts but will bind when the belt is between them. Also, lubricate them like the manual shows, even if they are sliding easy. finally, I would lube the swing pivot point for the sheave assembly. If your belts are correct this should work.

Good luck!

Steve

[lampoulos]

I will do that. Thanks Steve

[Bullstok]

On my parts 6216 tractor i have to pull back on the pedal with my foot because the spring is not good enough or else not adjusted right, to pull the variator pulley all the way back against the adjust lever by itself. I dont care much though cause its gonna lose some important parts anyway whenever i get around to it. I would think that if the belts were worn enough before, that the tension may need adjusted for the new belts.

[steve-wis]

I agree with Bullstok, you also should adjust the spring tension. I believe there is a nut you can screw down to put more tension on the spring. Sorry I forgot about that. If I remember right, it doesn't change very quickly as you adjust it and it takes quite a bit to make a difference. I would try pulling back on the pedal as you are moving first to see if this is a part of your problem.

Steve

[Bullstok]

I have read in my manual about two different adjustment procedures. The simple one is the tension on the spring that pulls on the pulley. There is another more complicated procedure to adjust the variator assembly that involves adjusting until the pulley hits the frame and backing off a couple turns. You have to have it in neutral during one part and not in another part of the procedure, or something along those lines. I have not done it myself and I dont know the reason it would need done or not. I assume that my problem is just the simple spring because i can pull back the pedal (adding more tension) and it works. If the more complicated adjustment involves changing the angle or moving the leverage points then maybe I assume wrong.

Edit- I must have read the pulley touching the frame part in a different manual because my manual does not have it that way.

[Bullstok]

So here is the version for my mower. It is mostly directly plagiarized, minus the useful diagrams, and not as useful additions of me trying to describe the pictures. Dont know if it is helpful this way or not but it gives a place to start. Again, I can not find anywhere that states what problem this procedure is supposed to fix.

1. Place tractor on level surface

2. Place the speed control lever in full speed position (up)

3. Raise the seat deck

4. Loosen the shoulder bolt so it is free to slide in the slot (the 3/4" bolt - 9/16" nut, adjacent to the speed control lever, where the pivot point is to the bar going down to the pulley)

5. Lower the seat deck and seat yourself in operating position

6. Place the transmission in neutral and release the parking brake

7. Start the engine. Press the pedal down and set the parking brake while the engine is running.

8. Stop the engine. Unlatch the pedal and allow the pedal to come up slowly.

9. Dismount from the tractor (dismount is good because it is the spot where I picture a gymnast dismounting the balance beam style of leaving the tractor)

10.measure the distance from the pedal shaft forward edge to the forward edge of the footrest (where the pedal clips when you set the parking brake). If it measures 5 1/2" go to step 11. If not tighten the nut (the nut underneath right next to the variator pulley, by the spring with the shaft going through it) toward the spring to increase the measurement or loosen the nut to decrease the measurement.

11. Place the speed control lever all the way down in low speed position. Then grasp only the upper handle and pull up firmly to lock the lever into position. (30 to 40 lbs force)

12. Raise seat deck. Place your finger on top of the bar (where the shoulder bolt from before is) and push the bar down until it stops.

13. Tighten the shoulder bolt while holding the control lever up firmly. If the lever moves down at all while re-tightening, loosen the bolt and go back to step 11.

14. Perform brake adjustment.

[steve-wis]

Jeremy,

This is the procedure for making sure that when your speed lever is all the way up, the pulleys are in their fastest position. I believe that as belts wear and become more narrow, it affects this. I know that when I put the new belts on mine, I did go thru this procedure but it was set where it should have been. I assumed that the previous owner had never adjusted this as the belts wore. I had replaced the belts soon after getting this tractor and getting it running. The adjustment really has nothing to do with the clutch, that is a separate adjustment. I would tighten that spring that pulls back the clutch pedal first, then if you want, go thru this procedure to make sure it is set right. It really is easier than it sounds in the description, only takes a few minutes. The starting and stopping of the tractor is to make sure the pulleys are in correct position for setting the linkage under the seat.

Hope this helps, it sounds confusing but really isn't bad.

Steve

[Bullstok]

Tore down about half of my parts tractor over the last few days. I found out that the majority of the issues on mine were in the pivot for the variator pulley. It is mounted to the top of the frame under the plastic where the instructions are printed. It is a shaft that rotates in two sockets formed by heavy straps. This was bound up pretty bad and in need of a major clean/lube. With all belts and springs gone it was still taking a good amount of effort to move the pulley.