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lampoulos

2210 Engine Issues; Please Help!

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lampoulos

Alright gentlemen, I've been attempting to resolve this issue on my own for a while now with no results so I'm turning it over to the professionals.

I have a 2210 with the original 10HP B&S that has always run like a top. In the later part of the summer it started idling itself down from full throttle at intermittent times. Back then it didn't bother me much because I could throttle it back up and it'd stay there without a problem. This fall the problem progressed to the point where it throttled itself down to the point that I couldn't catch it and died then would not restart. I noticed also that the carb was covered in gas (could of been from my restarting attempts). Not knowing what else to do I rebuilt the carb but never found a problem. Reinstalled and set it how I thought it should be. The throttle issue went away but it stated fowling out the plug and dying at random. Replaced the plug and that problem went away but it's back to throttling itself down at random. Some days it runs for a couple hours without a problem and some days I can't get it to throttle up and stay there. The only things that remain constant are that the engine is at operating temp when this happens and the problem doesn't go away until the tractor is allowed to sit for a couple days. When it say that it "doesn't throttle up", I mean that it idles perfectly but anytime you attempt to throttle it up it idles itself down to almost dying. If I can get it to idle up sometimes it'll dye down the same why only when it's under a load. But it'll idle all day long.

I do not consider myself a professional by any means so I could have compounded to issue by rebuilding the cab, but I seem to have come full circle with no changes. Any suggestions would be appreciated. It's not my only snow tractor, but I sure do prefer it over the others.

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fishnwiz

By any chance is the trotted cable slipping where it's pinned to the carb? L If the cable is held down against the engine or carb the point where it is held against the carb or engine there is s small clip or a screw and washer that pins the outer cable cover so the whole cable does not slide. Also check that inner cable is not broken by doing what Mike suggested in his following post.

Best of luck!

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MikeES

With fishnwiz suggestion, try operating the throttle plate directly. The throttle plate shaft is the one with the idle speed adjustment screw on it...operate that manually instead of the throttle knob.

If the throttle is trying to open but the engine is dying sounds like a fuel problem.

Gas tank venting, Fuel line partially plugged, high speed jet set too lean, float bowl/level too low.

Sticking throttle or governor/governor linkage. Working the throttle directly will help with that diagnosis.

And partially plugged muffler/exhaust, as it warms up the expanding gasses restrict the output and the engine cannot move anymore air than idle. Check for mouse nest in muffler.

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lampoulos

Thanks for the suggestions guys. The throttle cable is in good working order. Keep in mind that there are times when it runs just fine. To clarify; I have always been able to control the throttle from the seat or at the carb. My problem is that when I do attempt to throttle up the engine will start to climb in rpms and then starts to die out. In the other times it will go to full rpm but will drop to idle when under a load or on it's own. During this characteristic I can catch the engine by adjusting the cable down to the idle setting. If I don't and leave it adjusted at full throttle, the engine will die.

I've had the main jet out a couple of times but never find anything blocking it.

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lampoulos

"If the throttle is trying to open but the engine is dying sounds like a fuel problem.

Gas tank venting, Fuel line partially plugged, high speed jet set too lean, float bowl/level too low.

Sticking throttle or governor/governor linkage. Working the throttle directly will help with that diagnosis."

Will the engine idle normally with the issues that you mentioned above?

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fishnwiz

Check the base of the governor lever for debris or sludge...be sure gov. moves unimpeded. Low engine RPMs sound more throttle related then fuel starvation IMO. Is choke seperate on this motor or tied into the throttle?

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dentwizz

The float could be sinking/sticking or the needle could need a new seat seal. At full or mid throttle the fuel flow would be matched, but at low end it would catch up and overrun/flood randomly if it is not sealing properly.

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lampoulos
quote:Originally posted by dentwizz

The float could be sinking/sticking or the needle could need a new seat seal. At full or mid throttle the fuel flow would be matched, but at low end it would catch up and overrun/flood randomly if it is not sealing properly.


id="quote">
id="quote">That raises and interesting question. When I took the carb apart there was no rubber seal at the seat of the float needle. When I installed the one from the kit the float level was WAY off (could barly get the pin in the float hinge) so I assumed that there may be some kind of difference with my carb. When I put it back together without the rubber seat seal I checked to make sure I couldn't blow back through the fuel inlet with the weight of the float and it sealed properly. Do I actually need that rubber seal at the float needle seat? If I do, why is it so far off?I always say that when you have such an oddball problem it's usually the most basic of causes. It seems like we could be on the right track here.

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dentwizz

The literature usually states that the rubber should be on "either" the needle tip or the seat. It is interchangeable as long as it is not metal needle on metal seat. In a couple instances I've run rubber tip with rubber seat and had no problems. It varies though as to what clearance is permissable with the rubber/rubber combo.

In this scenario I would look into the stock setup which would be rubber on one part.

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lampoulos
quote:Originally posted by acken

Might not hurt to check your ignition (points, condenser). More than once I have found ignition symptoms can act very similar.


id="quote">
id="quote">That's something that I've been thinking about as well. Knowing that I've been fiddling around with the fuel system my fear is that the problem was in the ignition in the beginning but I compounded the problem by mis-diagnosing and going the wrong direction.I'm going to go through the fuel system this week to remove any doubt and move to the points afterward.

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dhoadley

PA190852.JPG

On a carb I was doing recently I failed to drop the little green ring in before seating the metal tipped needle. Didn't go well! Rubber tipped needle was longer. Either would have worked for me.

PA190852.JPG.c40bd26e9cb59e46f95c3b6738b81412.JPG

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fishnwiz

The little green ring goes in only one way. There is a circle on one side of the little green ring....that circle side faces down as you push it into place. You can use the backside of a drill bit to push the green ring all the way down into the needle valve seat opening. The ring MUST be pushed all the way down to the bottom of the opening or you will have an incorrect float level aND the carborist may overy I'll aND leak or drip.

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lampoulos

Well boys, I took the carb back apart today to investigate. I found that I had used the metal float needle with the metal seat. Though I think I got it fixed, I'm still cautiously optimistic. Plowed with it this afternoon and it didn't skip a beat.

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