B112 rear end help please

[B112_son]

Looking for help and suggestions what to check look for on my B112 rear end. Everything was working fine while I was spreading a pile of dirt with front blade. I was pushing in first gear. After a couple hours in I went into the pile and the tractor just stopped. No matter what gear I went into it wouldn't move forward or reverse. I rocked the tractor back and forth and it moves.

The problem now is 2 things. Problem number one is the tractor barely wants to climb a hill where before it was fine. Problem number 2 is anytime I try to shift gears they now grind.

So I have a feeling problems 1 and 2 are related since both showed up at the same time. Also I fear I may have broken a key or something inside the rear end.

In trying to diagnose problem 2 I noticed this. When I press the brake/clutch pedal the belt stops, the pulley the brake band goes around stops, the big drive pulley coming from rear end does not until it loses its momentum. If I try to shift gears they grind unless I wait until the pulley stops turning. Is this pulley supposed to stop when the brake is engaged?

Is there something else I can check? Right now I would like to be able to change gears but I know it's also going to be near impossible to push snow in this shape. I do have a spare variable rear end I can switch to but I would like to know what's wrong with the current one and see if it's fixable without cracking it open.

Sorry for the long post. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

[B112_son]

Also the drive belt is only 2 years old with less than 50 hours on it. As well as the rear diff being rebuilt with all new gears.

I am also not hearing and popping or grinding noises while driving.

[BLT]

Here is Simplicity version of operators manual. Go to clutch adjustment portion which doesn't say much. Make sure all of the linkage is free. Push in clutch pedal and observe. Does belt ride on belt guard when disengaged? And when pedal is released can you turn transmission pulley?

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/heCFEN8arG7rE4CG.5kbp796Dq.pdf

[Bill725]

With input shaft of BGB turning and transmission in gear, does the axle tube turn? If so, the problem is external of the transmission. If not, then internal to transmission.

[dentwizz]

The axle tube can shear like a cinnamon roll can starting from the keyways in the RH hub. If you are lucky it would just be the shear pins inside the RH hub differential gear. They are a bother to replace but a lot easier than doing a split tube/transmission.(and cheaper). IF the tube spins but the wheels don't, that's the hub.

[B112_son]

Thanks for the replies I am going to start working on it this afternoon.

BLT when the clutch pedal is pressed the belt comes up and rides on the belt guard and the belt stops turning.

To check the axel tube and diff I guess I need to jack up rear end correct?

Also any ideas why I can't shift gears without them grinding? I mean they grind so bad you can't get it into gear. I have to turn the tractor off. Shift, and start it in gear.

[rokon2813]

There is no possibly way a 3 speed can grind gears unless something in the transmission is turning.

Either the input shaft is still spinning, or the tractor is rolling.

If the input shaft is still spinning after the belt stops, it is free wheeling if the tractor is not moving.

Either wait for it to stop spinning (should only take a second or two), or adjust your brakes. As long as the tractor is in gear, the brake will stop the input shaft.

[rokon2813]

I just reread your original post. What I said above still stands, but you already said the brake is stopping and the pulley is free wheeling.

You either stripped a gear or broke a key. If the brake drum is stopped, and the input pulley is still turning, WITH the tractor in gear, then they are no longer mechanically connected inside.

There are only 2 options possible on the outside, 1) the input pulley is spinning on it's shaft (not likely since the gears are grinding) or 2) the brake drum is loose from it's shaft, so the shaft is still spinning but the drum is not. (not likely either, since just friction should stop it from free wheeling)

[rokon2813]

My best guess is you stripped gear AG.That appears to be the only direct connection between the brake and the input and the wheels that would cause your problems.Any other gear on that shaft would only give you problems in 1 gear, and anything before that (sliding gear shaft) would give you problems in only 2 gears.Anything after that, and the brake would still stop the input shaft, and still give problems with power to the wheels.

[B112_son]

Thank you rokon for the detailed description. I will double check pulley on its shaft and the brake drum.

In attempt to clear up my description with the gears grinding basically I cannot shift at high rpm into any gear. Either from neutral or one gear to the next. I usually go 2nd to to reverse and vis versa. If I throttle down and wait long enough I can shift.

Quick clarify cation with the brake engaged the drive pulley should stop spinning correct?

[rokon2813]

quote:Originally posted by B112_son

Thank you rokon for the detailed description. I will double check pulley on its shaft and the brake drum. In attempt to clear up my description with the gears grinding basically I cannot shift at high rpm into any gear. Either from neutral or one gear to the next. I usually go 2nd to to reverse and vis versa. If I throttle down and wait long enough I can shift. Quick clarify cation with the brake engaged the drive pulley should stop spinning correct?id="red">

---

id="quote">

id="quote">Yes, as long as the transmission is in gear. In neutral it will not.

[B112_son]

Ok quick update. I started by checking and lubing the clutch linkage as well as the idler pulley on the drive belt. I also double checked the belt stops.

Something must have been sticking along the linkage because I have power to the wheels. As far as the grinding as I took more time to figure out where issues are I came up with this. When going from one gear to the next there are no issues with grinding. I checked all 4 gears. When going from neutral to any gear the gears grind unless at low rpm and waiting 15-20 seconds for the drive pulley to quit turning. Any ideas why this would be happening? Thanks again for any help

[rokon2813]

Is the belt stopping right away when you push in the clutch while in neutral? Are there belts stops on the rear pulley?

I've never seen a transmission "free wheel" that long. I would have to think the belt is still moving......

Is this tractor a straight 3 speed or a variable?

[B112_son]

Rokon. It is a variable. I double checked the adjustments for the variable and everything there seems to be fine. I've never checked how the long the pulley free wheeled before however I didn't have trouble changing gears. If I wait until the pulley quits spinning I can shift gears no problem.

also while pulley free wheels the input shaft is turning as well. Then they both stop together.

And yes the belt is stopped and stops right away.

[Mike_H]

Real quick...are you waiting for the tractor to stop moving before shifting gears? They are not like automobiles with manual transmissions. These tractors don't have synchro's in them, so shifting while underway is difficult to do without grinding. They are designed to be placed in gear, and then release the clutch. If you need to change your ground speed, you stop, then select another gear, then start again.

[rokon2813]

Then I have no idea why it would free wheel more now than before.

If the 4 belt guards are present and you have the variable adjusted correctly, there is nothing left to stop the free wheeling other than time....

There should be a guard in front of the front pulley, one behind the rear pulley, a long one on top, and the small one on the clutch idler pulley that kinda pinches or rubs the belt to stop it when you push in the pedal.

That's all there is. I have heard those units are fussy about belt wear. If the belt is any less than 1 inch wide it will cause problems, but usually only slippage.

[B112_son]

Mike_H thanks for input. Yes I am stopping before shifting gears.

Rokon I am at a loss right now. I have the four belt guards in tact you describe. And I don't know what happened that could be causing this change in the free wheel of the drive pulley. Thanks for your help. At least I have the issue narrowed down to the input shaft.

Anybody got any other ideas short of changing the rear end?

[rokon2813]

Check your belt width to be sure. If it is less than 1" wide, it might be part or all of the problem.

I know you said its not that old hours wise, but pushing dirt can be hard on belts.

[lobsta1]

When I first got my 3012 I had a lot of grinding. Tried all the adjustments & no change. Finally realized the tension lever for the mower belt when engaged was hitting the adjustment bolt on the brake/clutch preventing full braking. That was caused by the hanging bracket (Part A pto bracket 157285) had the pivot hole wallowed out. Got another bracket from Sandy Lake & everything has been fine since then.

Al

[MikeES]

If the variable is set up correctly with the belt brake on the idler pulley, the driven pulley should stop almost immediately. When set up correctly when the clutch is push in the belt loosens from the drive pulley only and the belt brake stops the belt and driven pulley.

The tractor will not climb hills: Probably belt slippage, along with the driven pulley not stopping...maybe you have a broken linkage in the variable lever system with the driven pulley not compressing the belt (sheaves open).

[B112_son]

Mike. So is the belt what is causing the friction to make the pulley stop? I was thinking about it today and that is about all that makes sense to me. I didn't get a chance to double check tonight but my thought was the belt is coming up out of the pulley far enough there is nothing to cause enough friction for the pulley to quit spinning. I don't know when I'll get a chance to work on it again but I'm thinking about taking the variable components off and giving it a good cleaning and start from scratch setting it back up.

[B112_son]

Quick update. I played around with the tractor tonight a bit with little time to actually work on it. What I did discover is belt is coming up out of the rear pulleys too far to make contact and stop them. I played with the variable lever and watched the pulleys and I don't think they are moving full range. Then I pulled the lever back hard and held it and voila belt stopped, but stayed in the pulleys enough to make them stop within a couple seconds. So I'm thinking this weekend I start by doing what I talked about above. Take the pulleys and linkages off clean well and reassemble, / adjust. At least now I know what is wrong what I need to come up with a way to fix.

Thanks for everyone's help and ideas. All the thoughts helped me narrow things down till I found the problem. Thanks again.

[B112_son]

Another quick update in case anyone is following. Found my problem and fix. As I stated above the pulleys weren't traveling far enough. When I took everything apart today I found I have a small leak in the bgb on this side. The heavy thick fluid got on the shaft the front pulleys slide on causing them to stick. Since they weren't going full travel it was causing both issues of shifting gears as well as climbing hills because of lack of enough to tension on the belt. Took it all apart and cleaned for now. No time to fix the bgb leak at this point I'll just have to keep an eye on it. Thanks again for the help.

[tadams]

Make sure the bgb stay full of oil

Tom