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Coleman

AC Dual Wheel Adapters

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Learning

I second Peppy Dan choice. I just got a pair of wheel spacers and they are of great quality. They look original. No shortcuts on materials or workmanship. He is also a club member. How can you go wrong?sm00

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oldorange

I third peppydan. I met him at the Portland IN shows for a few years before becoming a forum member here. He does great work and if I wasn't a college kid on a tight budget he would have sold me a lot of stuff.

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GregB

Be careful running duals on a loader tractor. Seem to remember Simplicity recommending not running them because of additional strain on driveline.

But a lot of guys do run them, they look cool, but if you are actually working the tractor, things might go bang.

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Talntedmrgreen
quote:Originally posted by GregB

Be careful running duals on a loader tractor. Seem to remember Simplicity recommending not running them because of additional strain on driveline. But a lot of guys do run them, they look cool, but if you are actually working the tractor, things might go bang.


id="quote">
id="quote">I would agree...I use them for show only. For the B1 loader they were "recommended" or "required"...I cant recall which terminology Allis used in the manual, but that was for tractors running narrower 6-12 tires. The same went for the B-1 forklift.By the time the L10 loader came out, tractors were using 8.5s and the longer spacers were used to help them clear the subframe. Dual wheel recommendations no longer appeared in the literature.I think sickle use was the only lingering use for them, by the book.

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Coleman

Thanks guys for the help. I will defiantly order some of these. I can't begin to tell you what a help you all are. I have put the B1 loader on the front of my Simplicity 725 and will get some pictures up. I put the Allis Chalmers yellow tin on (hood and grill) on the Simplicity and when my son saw it we was less than enthused. He asked why I was 'wrecking it'. So I guess it will be a Simplicity 725 (red) and paint the AC loader to match. I tried for originality and then I was pointed in the direction of reality.

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Coleman

Now what would the difference be in the duals to using wheel weights? Is it the slip in the rear axel that has trouble with the dual tires? I am having trouble visioning the extra stress with the extra tires.

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Talntedmrgreen
quote:Originally posted by Coleman

I do have the skinny tires and want to put the duals on the rear to 'one up' my neighbor who has a, what I call, 'a fatty patty'. His is a John Deer 140 which is much fatter looking than my 725.


id="quote">
id="quote">You rock! Every man has the one-up spirit somewhere inside, and I like to get it out, in jest, just like this. Those JD's do have some wide hips...

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PeppyDan

I happened to stop in here today and want to thank all of you guys that give my products the thumbs up and great reviews. I have had a couple of big remodel projects this year so haven't had time (or energy) to promote the items I sell but have still been trying to help anyone who contacts me!

Dan

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Simplicity7013H
quote:Originally posted by PeppyDan

I happened to stop in here today and want to thank all of you guys that give my products the thumbs up and great reviews. I have had a couple of big remodel projects this year so haven't had time (or energy) to promote the items I sell but have still been trying to help anyone who contacts me!Dan


id="quote">
id="quote">I have one of your reproduction headlight bars and its fits perfect just like factory. dOd

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Bill725

All Simplicity/AC BGB tractors are designed with a break between the frame and the BGB. The loaders originally came with reinforcing plates which span between the frame and the BGB. Make sure you have them. I would hate to see the frame break right in front your crotch. Also, be aware the 725 transaxle originally came with bronze bushings instead of needle bearings, like in later models, at the axle tube and transaxle case. I machine bored the case out for roller bearings.

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Talntedmrgreen
quote:Originally posted by Bill725

The loaders originally came with reinforcing plates which span between the frame and the BGB. Make sure you have them.


id="quote">
id="quote">I have never seen such a thing from the factory and they do not appear in any of the loader manuals.

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Kent

Neither have I seen those reinforcements from the factory or dealers, nor in any documentation. But, I have seen people add them to tractors, and I highly recommend them. Almost every loader tractor I've seen that's been used extensively shows evidence of repairs to the rear area of the front frame, where the plate butts up to the BGB.

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Coleman

The parts b1 tractor has metal plates on it which look like reinforcement plates. I thought they were added later judging by the welds. However they look like they should belong. I guess I have to now switch the frames. Aaaarrrrrrggggggg!

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Bill725

You will want to check to see what type of bearings are in the front wheels. 700s and some early 725s came with bronze bushings and later 725s came with tapered roller bearings. If you have bronze bushings, check the condition and keep an eye on them. With a loader you will be loading them up more than normal and will wear because they are not a rolling element type bearing like a tapered roller bearing. My 725 has tapered roller bearings and I replaced the wheel caps with bearing buddies to keep grease in them.

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Bill725

You also may want to use the B1 steering gear that mounts to the frame. The 725 has (2) separate castings mounted to the frame whereas the B1 combined the (2) castings into (1) and is a more robust design.

I took the casting, drilled and tapped to mount a grease gun hose and ran it up towards the motor on the left hand side with a grease fitting on the end of the hose to lubricate it.

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Bill725

On a roll here. The 725 axle tube is shorter on the LH side than the B1. The longer axle tube provides support for the axle making it a more robust design. The 725 also has roll pins in the differential on the RH side which can shear after long life. I took my 725 transaxle and bored the bronze bushing axle tube holes out for roller bearings like the B1, counterbored the shifter shaft holes for oil seals like the B1, replace the short 725 axle tube with the longer B1 axle tube and replaced the 725 differential with the B1 differential. Making it a more robust transaxle.

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Coleman

Man this is good advice and from hands on guys. I cant begin to thank you all for this input. I am going to go check this out right now as it is a rainy day and I am stuck indoors. Great reason to go outside.

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Hudco

i am going replace the axle bearings and seals on my 101 so what all should i do while it is all apart i run duels sonmtimes when plowing or pulling the digger also run wheel wieghts and 100# of suit case weights up front my tires are 26x8 on all four rears

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