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First storm - Near total failure

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As late in the year as it is I still was not ready for the storm.

We got about 3 inches of fine sleet.

I have a 5212.5 with snow blower but she could not get traction. Have to get weights and chains put on. The engine does not seem to be running at a high enough RPM as it bogs down severely when I engage the snow blower. Have to find out the correct RPM and tune it.

The Allis 416H gave me all kinds of trouble with the drive belt slipping. I worked on it a lot last year to get it working but the slipping today was just too much and the chains kept slipping off the left wheel.

My Landlord 101 has a single belt snow blower I picked up with another tractor earlier this year. Every time I would lift the snow blower to move the tractor the left pulley on the snow blower frame would drop below the side of the blower housing and then get stuck underneath the housing causing it to stop turning and burning the belt. Never saw this happen on my other blowers, have to figure out why it's happening. Belt got too worn and jumped off the pulleys so I gave up and switched to a plow to finish. My lady was finishing up the plowing and one of the rear tires gave out and destroyed itself.

So many little things to work out. My best tractor is at the other house. With her everything would have been smooth.

Everybody else make out in this storm?

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Sounds like you had a heck of a day! I can only give a bit of advice, always use weights and chains, even in lite snow, and expecially on ice or sleet. A slipping drive belt is almost always either a worn belt or worn pulleys, unless there is a spring tension issue with the clutch assy. When running a single stage blower, wide open is the only engine speed to use. Then adjust ground speed to keep the blower full without overdoing it. Usually when the snow starts to shoot out alot in front of the blower you know you are going a bit too fast on the ground speed.

I guess the bright side is you have a lady who will get on the tractor and move snow, don't take her for granted!

Good luck with your issues.


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I have weights and chains for all the tractors but ran out of time getting them ready. That will all be taken care of this weekend though.

These hydro tractors always seem to be difficult with the drive belts. They are a pain to replace as well, especially on the 416H because the seat deck does not move.

I assume the issue with pulley wear is that they widen and the belts begin sitting too deeply in the grooves causing too much slack? I will have to look into it. I have two of the hydro pumps apart in the basement, will compare pulleys. Waiting for the machining on one pump to be done so I can put my HB112 back together. She is one of my best running tractors but the pintle shafts were leaking terribly.

The 101 is a pain to use the snow blower on without hydro lift. I have a unit for it but want to go through it and replace all the o-rings first. It is time consuming to install those as well when working out in a frozen drive way. One day I will again have a garage.

Now I have to go stare at my two snow blowers to determine why the pulley on one keeps getting stuck under the frame. I should have most of the kinks worked out by the next big storm. :)

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Stinger weight with a donut weight on makes using the manual lift on an FDT much easier. Two donuts on a stinger is almost too much weight for a 36" blower - they can lift it off the ground - but works well with the 42" blower. Experimenting with weight (position and tatal weight) on a stinger can make a world of difference...

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I have not run the 5212.5 enough to know if it is consuming oil. I got it last year and it seemed to run well but when I took it out for snow removal the transmission stopped going into reverse and I got stuck.

It sat until last fall when I swapped transmissions from a 4211. When I fired it up the carb overflowed fuel into the crank case and I had to clean it out and put in fresh oil and I rebuilt the carb.

Now she starts and runs but bogs down under load so it may just be a carb adjustment after the rebuild or there are greater issues that actually caused the oil to contaminate with fuel. Not sure how to get a good compression test on these engines with the compression release valves.

I will start with adjusting the carb and I have a tachometer to adjust engine RPM with, hopefully that will do it. I am not yet very good at carb adjustments.

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