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phillobbezoo

Powermax electronic ignition

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phillobbezoo

I have a powermax that has been a real pain in the •••. With that said I've bought a brand new rotor and ignition controller got them put on today and I have spark again. This is the 3rd time I've done this, after the first time tractor ran great for about a year then the problems started it would run then die and so on. After the second ignition controller it ran for about 10 min then started acting up and eventually lost spark altogether. I've replaced and ruled out a ton of stuff, except for why the ignition controllers quit working. The first 2 were used parts from eBay so is it possible they either wore out or were worn out when I got them? The only thing I can figure that could burn them up is to much voltage, which I'm going to check in the first 30 seconds of firing it up, so to my question, is there something else that could be wrecking the ignition controller or is it just dumb luck that I've been delt, or is it to much volatge, any thoughts? I realize not everyone will know what I'm talking about but the ones who do will know right away, and for any input thanks

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720nut

If you haven't checked voltage I'ld start there. I know you've probably checked everything but double check easy to have missed something. Mine are still in boxes sort of waiting outcome on yours. As Isetta said best to you and yours

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Rigger9020

Phil, would you mind explaining your electronic conversion. I have been looking into different methods for my tractor. Not sure what you mean by "rotor" ? I am leaning towards a pick up mounted off flywheel with automotive module.

Thanks Mike

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midnightpumpkin

Phil,

Are you sure you have a good condenser, it is the correct one, and it is wired in correctly?

A condenser issue would cause premature failure of the controller module.

Other than that, drop it off at my place and get it out of your life!

John U

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phillobbezoo

Hey John thanks, I do believe it is correct, for how much they are I should just put a new one on to make sure. I'll have to see info can find the part #. I have it wired to the positive side of the coil and its mounted to the coil bolt on the shroud, that's right I think. As far as dropping it off have to much into it now just picked up the hood and the rims from the paint shop I got them powder coated so I have way to much invested in it now, it's not going anywhere. Let me know if I got it wired backward and maybe the part number for the condenser thanks John .

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midnightpumpkin

I used a U1515 condenser from Auto Zone.

It sounds like you have it wired correctly.

One of mine has been running for 2 years without an issue. Keep in mind, this is the ignition that all Onan Performer engines use.

John U

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midnightpumpkin

I used a U1515 condenser from Auto Zone.

It sounds like you have it wired correctly.

One of mine has been running for 2 years without an issue. Keep in mind, this is the ignition that all Onan Performer engines use.

John U

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phillobbezoo

Thanks John, I was 99.9 sure it's wired or hooked up right, only other thing I think it could be is its getting to much voltage or I have bad luck and bought a controller that was bad I'll find out when I put the motor back in and fire it up I guess, hey maybe you could post the smoke stake artical on the conversion or the right up from micheals tractor on it for Mike for some reason it won't let me on my phone or it could be I don't know how

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midnightpumpkin
quote:Originally posted by Hudco

make sure you have cooper sparkplug wires the other ones have to much resistice


id="quote">
id="quote">I have never found this to be a problem with a battery ignition system.John U

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720nut

Phil I'm really hoping you get this figured out. I'm still waiting to do mine on the outcome of what you find causing problem. Mine both run so I don't need these types of problems.

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phillobbezoo

Yeah it's been a pain!! But I know it's the controller it had no spark put a new one on and spark is back just have to find out why. I think it's just bad luck or its getting to much voltage only thing it could be I'll keep you guys posted should have it running this weekend

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phillobbezoo

Okay so I got the motor put back in this afternoon, I did not start it but I cranked it over and the spark is there. I I've replaced everything including the condenser, with that being said the only thing in my mind could be its getting to much voltage and burning up the ignition controller. This tractor I installed a mini denso 30 amp 1 wire alternator a while back, I'm thinking about taking it in and having it tested to make sure the voltage regulator Isn't burned out what do you think John? Out side of the alternator could it be anything else? I'm just trying to make sure I checked everything I can before firing it up

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phillobbezoo

So after finishing a few other things up I fired it up tonight, I never had a doubt that it would run and it runs flawless. I had the alternator tested and it tested out good, so with it running at the coil I have a steady 14.88 volts, now for my question if anyone knows the answer is 14.88 volts at the coil going to the ignition controller to many volts. I am really hoping I have this thing fixed, the other 2 ignition controllers I bought off ebay and were used so I suppose it's possible they were both on there last leg and I'm hoping with all brand new parts the issue is behind me as long as I'm good on the voltage. Anyone have any thoughts?

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midnightpumpkin

Phil,

14.88 volts sounds awfully high. I would disconnect the alternator until you get it sorted out.

I would be looking for a range of 14.2 to 14.6 volts across the battery when the alternator is running.

Take the meter you are using and compare the voltage across the battery in your car, it should be in the 14.2 to 14.6 range at fast idle.

14.88 volts will boil your battery dry after a while.

John U

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midnightpumpkin

I went out and measured the battery voltage in our 2012 Toyota Highlander, it was 14.2 volts at fast idle.

When I installed the Toyota alternator in my 4040, it ran at 14.7 volts with no load and 14.5 volts with two sets of lights on.

John U

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phillobbezoo

I talked to the guy who tested the alternator for me and he said it's good has to be something else, he told me to ground the alternator right the battery so I did no difference, so I tested the voltage on my truck with no load at high idle and its 15 volts. I'm wondering if my meter is off, but when I tested me wife's car it was right at 14.5 volts with no load so I dunno. I checked the voltage of the tractor with lights on and rear clutch running and it dropped to 13.5 volts so I don't know what to do now

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phillobbezoo

So I talked to a mechanic that works on a lot of these Onan motors thinking he would have an answer for me. Well he basically told me those ignition modules are designed to work in a normal operating 12 volt system, and with that being said he told me anywhere up to 14.6 volts he would not worry about it but he could not tell me how much more voltage it would with stand before burning out the module. He did agree with you John that 14.88 volts seemed a little high so he said run it with the lights on seing how that keeps the volatge down around 14 volts until I figure something else out

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720nut

Phil I'll try and check the output on mine today and see what it reads. I've been reading all these post wondering if I really want mess with something that is running. When I get a chance I'll build a bracket to hold timing stable. Restore job and honeydo has kept me pretty busy.

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