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Winter engine rebuilds

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So I have 5 engines that need various levels of attention; 3 vertical shaft Broadmoor engines that I need into make 2 working engines and 2 horizontal shaft engines for my Little Wonder leafblower.


First order of business is pulling the heads to find out if the Broadmoors are aluminum or cast iron cylinders so I can order the appropriate rings. First up is a newer replacement engine that came with a parts tractor, #170701-2010.


Aluminum cylinder that looks fantastic. This looks very encouraging.Next up is the engine I used this summer cutting, #191700-0638 (when it would run). Used oil, fouled plugs, hard starting.


My solution to stabilizing the pulley. Snapped one screen bolt.


Pulley soaking in PB Blaster. It moves a little so its just a matter of time before I'll win. The cylinder is also aluminum, though I'll have to measure it up carefully. Looks like it may need to bored over to run again.





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A lot of people won't even bother trying to rebuild an aluminum cylinder. It is absolutely critical to get all of the honing grit cleaned out by cleaning in hot soapy water multiple times.

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I've rebuilt quite a few aluminums but they were just rering and hone. If it isn't that far out of spec a std ring set and hone is fine and cheaper than a new engine or machine shop.

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I'm looking to make 2 runners out of the 3. Only 1 looks all that bad. I'll measure them up this weekend with a friend's digital micrometer. I got the shroud off the one I was using this summer and look what I found.


I was wondering why acorn and peanut shells were falling out while I was working on it. It's surprising the darn thing ran at all!


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I just brought home a 64 Landlord that had no compression. I pulled off the head and found the shroud completely filled and packed tight with old carpet fibers and bird feathers. The cooling fins were half filled with it also.

Engine has a stuck valve and the cylinder looks pretty good so maybe I will get lucky and get to put her to work without a full tear down.

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I borrowed my friend's digital caliper and measured the 3 Broadmoor engines. 2.978, 2.983, 2.986. The B&S Check Chart has cylinder bore of 2.999 over 3.000. Is that the over/under for standard vs. oversized rings? These 3 seem to be safely under, but I could use conformation from those who are in the know. I know nothing. (though that's never stopped me before ;)) Thanx, Dave

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Not sure what you mean by a check chart. I used the B & S overhaul manual to check though it all. In this way, anything over the limits mean you bore it out .010 oversize or get another block. My one block 325431 was .006 over the outer limit, so I located another good used bock. IF on the other hand you should find the block within the specifications they list, a std. set of rings and a clean block is the way to go. I would highly recommend after honing you wash the block quite through with sudsy hot water . I washed mine 4 times, rinsed, blew dry.

Hope you find this helpful

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