ketchk 1 Posted January 25, 2016 this is my second year with this tractor. when i start it up it takes about 2 minutes for the tractor to move or the plow to lift no wineing nothing then it comes to life and works great. it is about 15 -20 degrees out . i checked the trans hydro fluid its fine any ideas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Talntedmrgreen 1,978 Posted January 25, 2016 An obstruction? My hydros have always moved immediately. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike_H 92 Posted January 25, 2016 Sounds like an air pocket to me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishnwiz 3,290 Posted January 25, 2016 Sounds to me like you need to jack it up and work air out of the system as Mike suggested. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Horvik 31 Posted January 25, 2016 ketchk; A plugged filter may do that...also perhaps the fluid needs to be changed, depending on your interval. Is it sunstrand ? And what type fluid? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Marty-MN 0 Posted January 25, 2016 on my 712 the filter and oil did not help it ended up being the charge pump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ketchk 1 Posted January 25, 2016 it is a sunstrand and using ATF type f last year was working fine i did nothing to trans and just started (needing to warm UP) i was thinking of spinning off just the filter and replace it I don’t know how to bleed the system Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishnwiz 3,290 Posted January 25, 2016 If you google bleeding air or purging from tractor hydro systems there are several articals and suggestions on clearing air from your system. Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BLT 718 Posted January 25, 2016 Sounds more like charging pump is slow to prime. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ketchk 1 Posted January 25, 2016 if the charging pump is slow to prime what dose that mean. i guess ill change the filter first any advice on what brands to buy or what to avoid if i just change the filter do i have to bleed the system i did find the way in one manual i have says take spark plugs out and crank engine till wheels move Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cityboy2977 0 Posted January 26, 2016 NAPA 1056 filter Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burntime 1 Posted January 26, 2016 filter or low fluid Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ketchk 1 Posted January 26, 2016 I have a Simplicity 7100 operators manual it says how to drain and change trans fluid. but dose not cover bleeding system i have googled and find ow to bleed craftsman systems and z turns but nothing as classic as a 7119H Help i just want to change the filter the book says leave the fluid alone unless burnt thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ketchk 1 Posted January 26, 2016 also my filter is the short one that screws right on the pump thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cityboy2977 0 Posted January 26, 2016 looking at the machine from the rear,left side, past the filter is the breather tube. there is a lil relief valve in the top that has to be pulled up to purge the air from system. i use a pair of hemostats to hold it up while filling. i lift the wheels off the ground and cycle the machine forward & reverse for a few minutes each way. then recheck fluid level. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ketchk 1 Posted January 26, 2016 hey citiboy2977 found the vent tube. the part you lift up must of rotted years ago. all i have is a pipe cap .guess i can just leave it off and bleed then screw it back on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites