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Which tractor for a loader?


Up-north55709

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Thinking of making a loader for one of my tractors. Not sure which one. Should I go with the 7117 (powered by Kohler M20), 7018 (original) or 3112V (original).

I also have a B10, but not sure about keeping that.

Please weigh in pros and cons! Thanks guys!

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If you do a RBT

you will have to design everything

Where to place pump, controls

how to bridge the bgb

it can be done,I built one

and it is expensive

If you use a FD tractor

It has been designed for you

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Either way you'll need a sub frame that the loader will attach to so there's no pressure on the two piece tractor frame. Your weak spot on the tractor part are the 4 7/16" bolts that connect the tractor halves together. They have been known to loosen up and are seldom checked until it is too late among other things.

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There are several things to consider.

A loader will put a lot of weight on the front spindles so a tractor with a strong front end is best. Since you are building this yourself it is variable depending on the size of the bucket you make and the reach of the arms. The longer the arms reach the greater the force against the frame.

How you drive the pump for the loader matters. If you are going to drive it from the tractor engine then you want to ensure you have enough horse power to run the tractor as well as the hydraulic pump. It is a good idea to have a PTO you can disengage so you are not starting and running the tractor under the extra load when the FEL is not being used.

Steering as BLT mentioned can be a problem depending on the weight being supported, the type of front end on the tractor, length of the tractor and it's weight distribution, type of tires used on front of the tractor.

The wider the surface area of the front wheels the harder they will be to turn but the narrower they are they more they will sink into the surface you are riding over.

A lot of weight on the front spindles can make steering difficult regardless of the tires used. A tractor with power steering is much nicer to operate with as you will find yourself wanting to steer with one hand and operate the FEL controls with the other.

You can often improve your steering with thrust washers and bearings.

As oldsarge said above, a hydro transmission may be the best bet rather than something you have to manually shift as the added controls for the FEL already complicate things.

It is possible to convert the directional control from hand operated to foot operated depending on which tractor you have and your own skill and creativity. I converted my WheelHorse D-160 to foot control last year and it makes using the FEL a helluva lot easier.

Nobody had conversion kits for my type of transmission though so I had to come up with my own design and fabricate my own parts.

Even though the D-160 is a larger and very solid tractor the weight involved with the FEL is very hard on the front end.

As BLT mentioned you will need to make a sub-frame for attaching the FEL and your choice of tractors may rely a bit on the mounting prospects for the sub-frame and if it will interfere with anything.

When it comes down to it you could manage to build and mount an FEL for any of the tractors you mentioned, it just takes a bit of ingenuity. How well it works for you will be a question you will not know for certain until you have it built and in use. Keeping the above things in mind will make the chances of success a lot more likely.

Let us see your build during and after. It is always good to get input during the construction.

I hope someday to build myself a backhoe for one of my tractors but I have so many things to work on already.

Good Luck.

Trent

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I am going to build a loader for a 3212V in the next couple of years. I anticipate doing the steering work with thrust washers as has been described on here many times. I have located a factory sub frame that I will use. I will have at most a 42 inch wide bucket, and it will be used sparingly, mostly for snow removal. The 3212V was available with a loader from the factory so I am confident it will work ok. As far as the variable tranny, I don't think it is a problem for my use. I will be posting pics of the project as it gets going, but like I said, a year or two down the road.

Steve

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Never hurts to start thinking in advance.

I often find that in the time between planning and doing I happen to come across information, parts or other inspiration that alters the project in a beneficial way.

There were loaders available for the B10 and Early Landlord tractors as well so of course it can be done. Sometimes its worth doing just because. :)

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Funny how that happens niteowl, you get an idea, make plans and perhaps purchase something then all of a sudden you find parts pieces or maybe the whole thing you wanted, or a better way to accomplish.

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The idea of making a loader really has been in the back of my mind for a few years already. I started with looking to buy one, but they are so hard to find. Then I found plans were available to buy, but I guess I would rather try to copy an original one.

Seems as I get older, everything takes longer!:D:D

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Use a big frame tractor like the 7117. The heaver and stronger the tractor, the better.

Here are some pictures of a loader that I put on a large frame. Works well.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t178/427435/2014-01-27031_zpsc7529d39.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t178/427435/2014-01-27030_zpsaf678fc7.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t178/427435/2014-01-27034_zps806bbff6.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update! I really think putting it on the 7117 (powered by M20) is the way to go. Figure it should then be universal-ish to the 7018 if need be.

I lucked out and grabbed an FEL off a cub 1440 from a guy, came with pump, new hoses, excellent shape barely used and great price. So now it's just about mounting, and rigging pump etc.

Mark- did you do anything to reinforce bgb trouble? Subframe etc. More pics of Subframe and connection to tractor would be excellent!

Thanks a ton guys!

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