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wiscogus

muffler removal

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wiscogus

Any tricks for removing the muffler off of my cast iron Briggs? I am trying to put a stack muffler on the B and cant get the old muffler out. I have been soaking it for a few days with WD40 Specialist, and using a pipe wrench with cheater bar. All it really does is deform the pipe.

I think I may have to bust out the torch here before too long. Any suggestions?

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steve-wis

I prefer pb blaster to wd 40 myself. I like to soak anything every day or so over a few days, and if possible tap on the part to help work the oil in. Then try to remove. If it doesn't move, try to tighten a bit first, sometimes this will break the hold on it. Finally, some heat if necessary. I have only had one failure with this method, that was a slide-on rear wheel that was keyed to the shaft and had not been moved in maybe 30 years. Nothing but cutting the rim off with a sawsall worked on that one.

Steve

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BLT

If the muffler is junk cut it off leaving about an 1/8" pipe exposed. Then take a hack saw blade and carefully make four cuts 90 degrees apart.

muffler%20III.JPG

Then with hammer and punch tap in between saw cuts and pipe will implode to where you can unscrew it.

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Talntedmrgreen

Cracking one loose when you don't care about the exhaust is pretty straightforward. Getting one out when you want to save the muffler can be an entirely different adventure.

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by Talntedmrgreen

Cracking one loose when you don't care about the exhaust is pretty straightforward. Getting one out when you want to save the muffler can be an entirely different adventure.


id="quote">
id="quote">On the cast irons, it takes a lot of heat to the point it almost looks scary,been there a few times.

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Mike_H

I used the cut it off close to the block, and then cut out sections method before. works good. Like Josh said, if you are trying to save the muffler, its a whole different ball game.

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1978Simplicity7016H

If you don't have anything to heat it with, just start it up and drive it around for a bit, if it runs. Then it should come off with a little effort if it isn't rusted too bad. This is one very nice use of a pipe wrench! If nothing works THEN you can pull out the hammer!:D But don't crack the block!

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MrSteele

Now, you have to put one back. Use PLENTY of anti-sieze on the threads. You will not have the original problem again. Smear some on, run the pipe/muffler in. Remove, reapply, back in. I usually do this until threads inside have a liberal coat, then reapply and install. Could do it with the brush, but screwing the pipe in gets the material in the bottom of the threads better inside the block.

And, if you have never used anti-sieze before, be aware that a little on your fingers, will go a long way onto everything else you touch!!!

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theniteowl

Rather than cutting off flush, cut off a small distance out from the block so you have something to work with without having to hammer directly up against the block. Cut notches as described above then pry, peel, chisel it loose.

As you get some material away from the threads it gets easier to pry it further away without putting pressure on the threads themselves.

If you are careful and work with material outside of the block you can bend it away without ever hitting any threads.

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