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jsarro

Need help rewiring 7112H Mfg. 1690473

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jsarro

They cut the blue wires to the safety switches.

If I splice them back together, does it matter which blue one out of the harness I use to which.

I image I remove the red connector on the blue wire loop from the solenoid to the neutral switch and then reconnect to the 2 wire cut from the harness?

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jsarro

The 2 safety switches under the tractor seem to go nowhere.

1 has a piece of wire looped completing the circuit on the female plug.

The other is a female plug with nothing connected.

What is going on with this set up?

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jsarro

The light switch had a red wire running out to feed the lights.

The other post on the switch had a black wire running from the hot side of the coil back the light switch.

What is the proper set up?

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CarlH

Check continuity first. Apply 12 volts. If it trips, it's probably good. If it smokes, you were going to throw it out anyway.8D

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jsarro

So it looks like I need to run a wire from the solenoid post back to the circuit beaker #33 then from the breaker back to a post on the ampmeter.

The other wire going to the ampmeter comes from the harness.

What color should the wire be from the harness to the ampmeter, and is that my missing wire?

How does that set up function?

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jsarro
quote:Originally posted by Brettw

I have to look, but I think I may have a complete harness from a 7117, which would work the same as the Kohler Harness.


id="quote">
id="quote">Thanks Brett

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jsarro
quote:Originally posted by CarlH

Check continuity first. Apply 12 volts. If it trips, it's probably good. If it smokes, you were going to throw it out anyway.8D


id="quote">
id="quote">Carl how do I know if it trips, and is it resetable?The part description says it is rated for 20amps, is this to protect the ampmeter?

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jsarro
quote:Originally posted by rokon2813

I just recently stripped a 7114H with kohler.I can check and see if the harness is any good...


id="quote">
id="quote">Thanks Dan

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CarlH

The breaker is thermal. When it cools off, it resets. You may hear it click when it trips. After tripping it will be open.

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jsarro

Does this look right for this tractor?In general, for magneto engines -B goes to the BatteryS goes to the Starter/SolenoidR goes to the Regulator/RectifierA goes to the AccessoriesM goes to the Motor/MagnetoGND - the switch body needs to be electrically groundedThe M terminal will be open circuit when the engine is running, and shorted to ground when the key is in the "off" position.

KohlerCV1115WireDiagram.jpg

KohlerCV1115WireDiagram.jpg.587fe56f569b26480b45dc62ddcc63a8.jpg

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jsarro

I removed and checked the breaker for continuity, looks good.

I removed the ignition switch.

The letters are SBRAI.

I guess the I goes to the ignition coil/

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jsarro
quote:Originally posted by BLT

Tractor wire diagram is on page 3-25.http://www.thepowerportal.com/simplicitytechpubs/TP_500_973_01_SV_SMA_Sec3.pdf


id="quote">
id="quote">Thanks BobThat is just what I needed. dOd

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Bill725

The 5-wire mated connector may be Kohler P/N 48 155 01-S. This is a common connector and B&S also has a P/N for it but I do not have it. My local Simplicity dealer has a engine electrical retrofit kit which is like a big tackle box with compartments with both the male and female spade terminals and 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5 mated connectors.

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