jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 I am trying to correct this wiring butcher job I inherited on a 7112H.Any help or advice would be appreciated.Here are the pictures: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 First question, where can I buy the 5 connector ignition plug? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rokon2813 272 Posted March 11, 2016 Does that have a briggs or kohler ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 Here is the wiring diagram. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 They bypassed the circuit breaker #33 in diagram. How can I tell if the breaker is still good? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rokon2813 272 Posted March 11, 2016 I just recently stripped a 7114H with kohler. I can check and see if the harness is any good... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 They cut the blue wires to the safety switches. If I splice them back together, does it matter which blue one out of the harness I use to which. I image I remove the red connector on the blue wire loop from the solenoid to the neutral switch and then reconnect to the 2 wire cut from the harness? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 The 2 safety switches under the tractor seem to go nowhere. 1 has a piece of wire looped completing the circuit on the female plug. The other is a female plug with nothing connected. What is going on with this set up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 The light switch had a red wire running out to feed the lights. The other post on the switch had a black wire running from the hot side of the coil back the light switch. What is the proper set up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brettw 1,134 Posted March 11, 2016 I have to look, but I think I may have a complete harness from a 7117, which would work the same as the Kohler Harness. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 What other colored wire is supposed to go into the 5 prong plug? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CarlH 419 Posted March 11, 2016 Check continuity first. Apply 12 volts. If it trips, it's probably good. If it smokes, you were going to throw it out anyway.8D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 So it looks like I need to run a wire from the solenoid post back to the circuit beaker #33 then from the breaker back to a post on the ampmeter. The other wire going to the ampmeter comes from the harness. What color should the wire be from the harness to the ampmeter, and is that my missing wire? How does that set up function? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 quote:Originally posted by BrettwI have to look, but I think I may have a complete harness from a 7117, which would work the same as the Kohler Harness. id="quote">id="quote">Thanks Brett Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 quote:Originally posted by CarlHCheck continuity first. Apply 12 volts. If it trips, it's probably good. If it smokes, you were going to throw it out anyway.8D id="quote">id="quote">Carl how do I know if it trips, and is it resetable?The part description says it is rated for 20amps, is this to protect the ampmeter? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 What is part #36 block for, and what wire is supposed to go to it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 quote:Originally posted by rokon2813I just recently stripped a 7114H with kohler.I can check and see if the harness is any good... id="quote">id="quote">Thanks Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CarlH 419 Posted March 11, 2016 The breaker is thermal. When it cools off, it resets. You may hear it click when it trips. After tripping it will be open. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 Does this look right for this tractor?In general, for magneto engines -B goes to the BatteryS goes to the Starter/SolenoidR goes to the Regulator/RectifierA goes to the AccessoriesM goes to the Motor/MagnetoGND - the switch body needs to be electrically groundedThe M terminal will be open circuit when the engine is running, and shorted to ground when the key is in the "off" position. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 I removed and checked the breaker for continuity, looks good. I removed the ignition switch. The letters are SBRAI. I guess the I goes to the ignition coil/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BLT 718 Posted March 11, 2016 Tractor wire diagram is on page 3-25. http://www.thepowerportal.com/simplicitytechpubs/TP_500_973_01_SV_SMA_Sec3.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsarro 5 Posted March 11, 2016 quote:Originally posted by BLTTractor wire diagram is on page 3-25.http://www.thepowerportal.com/simplicitytechpubs/TP_500_973_01_SV_SMA_Sec3.pdf id="quote">id="quote">Thanks BobThat is just what I needed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill725 1,177 Posted March 12, 2016 The 5-wire mated connector may be Kohler P/N 48 155 01-S. This is a common connector and B&S also has a P/N for it but I do not have it. My local Simplicity dealer has a engine electrical retrofit kit which is like a big tackle box with compartments with both the male and female spade terminals and 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5 mated connectors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites