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CDeHeer

Dipstick in the crankcase

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CDeHeer

Mowing yesterday with my 3310V yesterday and realized I was getting a fine oil misting on the right side. New shoes, favorite tactical pants, everything.

Once the oil hit the hot S&G I saw the smoke.

Turns out the Dipstick had separated from the cap and took a dunk in the crankcase leaving an 1/8" hole in the cap to spew said oil.

I've tried all types of grabbers and magnetic retrieval devices but can not get dipstick out of CC.

Will be pulling motor today.

My question is... Can I just separate at the oil pan.

It appears easier to pull the motor off the pan than to pull the motor with pan.

Any input appreciated!

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PhanDad

Yes, you can separate between the block and pan; that's what you're going to have to do anyway.

But before I did that, if it's a Briggs with the oil drain out the side, I'd drain the oil and remove any piping so that you get direct access to the pan oil drain hole. I'd then raise the opposite side of the tractor to get the broken dipstick to slide to the drain hole end and try and fish it out.

IMO, that's worth a try before having to disconnect the driveshaft, etc, and clean up the block/pan gasket surfaces for a new gasket.

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by PhanDad

Yes, you can separate between the block and pan; that's what you're going to have to do anyway. But before I did that, if it's a Briggs with the oil drain out the side, I'd drain the oil and remove any piping so that you get direct access to the pan oil drain hole. I'd then raise the opposite side of the tractor to get the broken dipstick to slide to the drain hole end and try and fish it out. IMO, that's worth a try before having to disconnect the driveshaft, etc, and clean up the block/pan gasket surfaces for a new gasket.


id="quote">
id="quote">In addition, I would make 4 guide studs threaded on one or buy 4 hex hd screw w/o any grade marking on the head and cut the heads off, Screw them into the pan then put a thin film of grease around the pan rail and press the new gasket in place . Lower the engine on he pan as close to parallel as you can. Then replace one stud at a time with a pan bolt. This will insure pan gasket won't squirm around.

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CDeHeer

I have not yet pulled the motor.I have tried extensively to get dipstick out of CC.I have not removed filler tube as I don't see a way without destroying the tube itself.I really do not want to pull this motor again.Other concern is that the dipstick was affixed to a disc which also seems to be missing.

LL2.jpg

LL3.jpg

LL2.jpg.a72d0e3dddd9983c2a30a65b1f1b3960.jpg

LL3.jpg.52f2c7c24d42a6894c73df037f68fbdd.jpg

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spi

Just wondering; what would happen if you stuck a big magnet to bottom of the base? Seems it should just snag the parts as they roll around. Wouldn't the parts be heavy enough any way to just roll around the base and not get caught up in anything?

Anyway, I might go stick a magnet on mine just to attract any fileings that might be floating around.

I understand it would seem like a risk' but really how much of one?

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CDeHeer

Well thanks for all the input.I would have pulled the drain tube but it was replaced with a hex hydraulic fitting and cap before I acquired it and it is so close to frame it can't be turned (I'll get a picture).Anyway I separated it after jacking around with magnets for way to long. I was curious to see in there anyway.

Crank1.jpg

Crank 2.jpg

Everything was clean and no damage except a slight bend to the dipstick.

Bent1.jpg

So was the dipstick just pressed into the cap?Should I use a little JB when I put it back together?Of course I'll take BLT's advise on the studs to help alignment.Bugger almost broke my back pulling it.

Pulled1.jpg

I miss being young!

Crank1.jpg.135d2df4e8bb0f2d2de1a5b2451ba479.jpg

57e0629f69324_Crank2.jpg.5754145e0ca2a54164abd059960b4728.jpg

Bent1.jpg.e4ed05e8cf4f43fee9961ece0f12e17a.jpg

Pulled1.jpg.8d1d5f98c40c40a69527fbf8c03aec9e.jpg

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PhanDad

Glad to hear you got the dipstick removed without damage to the bottom end of the engine.

My Homelite T-12 has the same dipstick. I've had issues with getting the gasket to seal. I gave up and installed a rubber cap to seal the dipstick tube. When checking the oil I use the dipstick. Now I see a bonus with this method of never having the dipstick fall into the crankcase.

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Rigger9020

Way back when dad brought a new 3416, the dip stick fell into the block. Ended up punching a hole in the block. So not a new issue with the Briggs. After that we never ran with dip stick in block. Took pipe cap and wielded round stock to top for handle (t-handle) used that as cap.

Good luck Mike

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CDeHeer

Well, I hammered the dipstick into the filler with some JB Weld and it feels solid as heck. I ran it for a few Mins. However I'm going to the Farm and Home tomorrow before I mow to get a pipe cap.

Rigger9020 Sold Me.

I consider myself lucky now!

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Tacey

I'm glad I read this post. My dipstick on my 3410 is loose in the cap. Just waiting for it to really get loose and fall inside. I will buy a pipe cap and keep the stick separate out of harms way. Thanks for this thread as it never dawned on me what trouble may lie in store #128668;

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