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cwm1276

Tiller rebuild?

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cwm1276

Just did some string tilling and took it (ID 1690039) off and noticed the tine shaft has quite a bit of wobble. I assume that means the bearings on each side are shot, part #2105309SM.

So how big of a job is that to do? It is a 40 year old tiller and the drive case has never been opened. Should I be replacing other parts as well while I am doing this?

Thanks in advance

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dav

not too many other parts to replace. the shaft has some wobble even with new bearings.

hardest part for me was removing extensions from main shaft. lots of PBS and heat-not propane heat but acetylene heat. took a week of casual messing with it.

after the extensions were off, it took about 2 hours to do the first one. I chased the threads on the T-bolt and put new zerks on it also.

been a few years since I did mine. got 3 sets of bearings from someone in the club and did all 3 of my tillers. not sure if there were seals in there or not. don't have a parts diagram. rather than trying to make a paper gasket, I just used RTV between the case halves.

shortly thereafter, I snagged a root while tilling and bent an extension. really wobbles now but still does the job

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oldorange

Put a rod down the shaft then use a three jaw puller. The shaft with the tines will then pull off the drive shaft easily. Just be sure to put the tines back on the correct way, otherwise it will shake your fillings loose.

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Talntedmrgreen

No need to open the case or use a puller. Soak, heat, beat and if that doesn't work, tack a bolt onto the end of extension and run a length of all thread through it. For mine, that didn't even work, so after a week, I finally gave in and made a relief cut.Bearings can be found at tractor supply for about $15/ea vs the big bucks Simplicity wants.

20150827_192552.jpg

20150827_225208.jpg

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cwm1276

I had a chance to acquire to a puller and I have tin off the right side and standing on the left side.

My biggest problem is I don't have all the tools you guys do. I am trying to see if I have enough to make it work.

I am tempted to pull the pin out of the left side and re-install the tins and mount on my tractor and see if I could till a little and cause the rust to break loose?

I did try my socket wrench on on the bearing bolts and I think it was just spinning when I was able turn it. So I might have to open the case replace the bearings.

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cwm1276

Well one side is off, between PB Blaster soaking, my little puller (with a piece of rebar in the tube) and a bunch beating with my hammer.

Now I have to get that collar off. The set screw looks so rusted or full of dirt I don't know if I can get it off. I could cut it off with the right tool, but I doubt anything to cut it. I think I will go shopping for some kind of cut off tool.

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cwm1276

Update,

Both sides have the tines off, Right side collar is off and the bearing is shot for sure now with me working all the balls out of it.

I swear my bearing bolts are in backwards, I have heads on the outside not like Josh's above with nuts on the outside. I can turn a couple of them easily now, it just seems to be spinning on the inside.

I am going for it now and started to take the case open, it is close, but I think I need a bigger puller as my bearings are holding the bottom of the case together. My bearings are rusted enough to drive shaft that they won't move. I hope with a longer reach on a puller I might be able to pull from the inside of the right bearing, that I worked the balls out of.

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cwm1276

After a bunch of cutting with my cutting wheel, I cut the bearing apart on the right side and got the case open.

tiller.JPG

My bolts in part 28 where reversed with nuts on the inside of #28. So if I would have gotten the bolts out of the bearings the nuts would have been loose in the case.The roller chain looks to be in good shape, just chunks of grease all over inside.I am now going to search on the site for new #30's and hopefully get them ordered as well as a new case gasket.

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cwm1276

For future reference here are part Numbers to interchange for the flange and bearing:

Peer: FHSF3X206-18G

AMI: KHTM205-18

Browning: VF3E-118

Dodge: LF-SXV-118

Fafnir: GVFD-1-1/8

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rich_kildow

You can get just about anything apart with a puller, heat, penetrating oil, and time. I broke more than my fair share of things before I figured out that patience is a key to some of these old parts.

Get your puller all placed and some tension applied, then start heating where appropriate followed by penetrating oil. I used to swear by PBlaster, but I'm coming around to WD-40 Rust Release Penetrant. Turn the bolt a bit more, heat, spray, repeat. When whatever force you were using to turn the bolt doesn't go any further, give a few gentle taps with a hammer. If that doesn't get you any further, walk away for 12 hours with the tension on. I don't know how many times I've come out the next morning to find the puller on the floor and whatever I was working on ready to come apart.

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colincox1

Hey Carl sorry to hear this is turning out to be a much more troublesome than it should be, but on a positive note, I am sure learning a lot from all the experience that is being shared. Thanks to you all

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cwm1276

Got it back together tonight, quieter than a it has been for a long time! Now should I take off the little arm that should go from the tightener to the missing belt cover? I could actually hear it bouncing tonight. I know I should dig up the cover and re-install it, it has only been off for 30+ years.

A couple tips for others doing this?

1. Clean the tines shafts well, the left side I did not clean as well and it made getting the new bearing and the tines back on much harder. Emery cloth was a good friend.

2. Old fashioned trouble light made getting the bearings on easier. I got a tip to heat the bearings by sitting on a light bulb until hot. That helped to expand the bearing enough to help slide the bearing on.

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