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sfw1977

3314v choke leak

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sfw1977

Hi folks. I am a new member here.

I recently inherited a few older simplicity or allis tractors. One of them I have kept at this relatives house to continue taking care of the property.

In the fall, when i was first working on the tractor to make sure it would be set for spring, I got it started up, and moved it. checked over things etc. All seemed ok.

A couple weeks ago getting prepped for the spring mowing... It wouldn't start. And i quickly noticed fuel running out through a little hole in the bottom of choke...

I can't seem to find a diagram or anything that would help me figure out what may have broken, rotted or whatever...

The hole is from the factory. And I am not sure if something should be plugging it, or a screw or what...

If anyone could offer some suggestions, it would be greatly appreciated. Please ask any questions that would help. I just don't know what I should put down in order to aid...

Thanks for any help!!

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tadams

Did you put any fuel additive in last fall if not there is a good chance that the carb is in need of a cleaning . You might try draining the tank and putting treated fuel, sea foam, sta-bil or some other fuel preservitive in it and try starting. If it won't start leave it set till the next day and try again. I have had luck with the new fuel with additive soaking and it starting the next day.

Tom

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PhanDad

Pretty sure it's a Briggs single in your tractor. They are notorious for leaking past the float valve when not running and the gas leaks out the hole you're asking about.

Solution is a fuel line shut off valve. Almost all of us with single cylinder Briggs engines have installed one.

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dav

I am guessing that you found the tank was empty and filled it up. when the fuel in the float bowl runs out, or evaporates, the float hangs down, holding the needle valve open. it sometimes sticks open, even when new gas floods the bowl. this lets the fuel run into the carb body, which then leaks out that little hole.

try tapping on the side of the fuel bowl with a screw driver handle or try rocking the tractor back and forth violently to shake the float loose.

if those don't help, disassembly is the next step. read up on that before starting as the emulsion tube in the carb is easy to break and not visible from the outside. it must be removed before the carb body is separated.

good luck

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sfw1977

Well thanks all for the replies. I have it back together. Replaced the fuel lines, and have fresh gas in it. When I try to start it, it just keeps cranking without turning over. However, if I give it a little squirt of starting fluid in the air cleaner, it will fire up a couple seconds and then shuts right off. The fuel shut off valve is older and you can't tell which is on or off, so I have tried it in both positions just to be safe.

I have only put a little bit of fuel in the tank though, not even enough to get it off of E, however there is fuel in the filter and in the line...

Now I am back to where I was last fall. Choke isn't leaking now!!

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sfw1977

I tried adding more fuel, but it made no difference. I'll have to take the whole carb off and do a thorough cleaning I guess. I don't know what else could be the issue.

Is there a good place to purchase carb kits or gaskets? No local places seem to deal in simplicity at all.

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sfw1977

There is good fuel flow. If I take the fuel line off just before the carb, it will run a full stream through the 1/4" hose until it's empty if I let it.

Someone above mentioned this is a Briggs engine. I have cleaned it off and can't find a useful marking.

I do recall the previous owner saying it was either a 72 or 74.

I guess it would be. 3300 or 3310 series. The original decal on the hood says 3314v.

Would anyone know what the Briggs model number might be so I can seek parts that way? There is an older model in the garage as well. I believe it is 1969. Carb setup looks exactly the same. Not sure if any of that info helps... I will get some pictures of it next time I am over there.

Really appreciate everyone's help.

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1978Simplicity7016H

I have had the same problem with my 7016. It had sat for a little while and when I tried to start it, the carb began leaking. Took the carb apart and it turned out to be the float was punctured and wasn't floating.

Take the float and place it in a sink full of water or some equivalent: just submerge in a liquid.

Push it below the water and if bubbles arise out of it, you need a new float. You can also just shake the float and listen to see it there is gas inside of it. Again, if there is you need a new one.

If your float is good, maybe the inlet needle is wore?

Good Luck:)

Oh, and yes, mine is a Briggs.

Briggs: air filter facing upward (wing nut facing upward)id="red">

Kohler: air filter facing outward (wing nut facing outward)id="blue">

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1978Simplicity7016H

Manuals for the Cast Iron Briggs Engines

I have a 3314H-hydro, and it has a 32c.i. Briggs engine.

Newer Manual:

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/270373-domestic.pdf

Older Manual:

http://www.simpletractors.com/operation/b_%26_s_300401.htm

The 3314 was made in 1971-72? Correct me if I am wrong. Definitely early 70's.

Sorry, not much help with the actual numbers, but for the 3314: 32xxxx.

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fishnwiz

Carb kits are cheap and can be purchased on ebay or from any other small engine parts dealer either online or in person.

Carb rebuilds are simple and if you need directions a guy can go to Google and get any number of videos from YouTube that will show you how to rebuild a carb step by step.

Best of luck and welcome to the site!

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PhanDad

Here's a pic of a Briggs engine carb:

IMG_8993b.JPG

Circled in red is the high speed jet. Since it leaks, I would think you have fuel flow into the carb. But if you want to be sure, remove the entire high speed jet assembly (the large nut, not the needle). You should get a large flow from the hole if all is OK. If crud comes out, the carb needs cleaning and probably a replacement kit.If you're engine is made before 1981 you need Briggs carb overhaul kit #391071. The code for your engine is stamped into the tin, probably on the top like this:

IMG_7238b.jpg

IMG_7239a.jpg

The info should be similar. The "code" indicates when the engine was made, in this case 1992 (92), June (06), 16th(16), in plant 48. The model and type numbers are needed for getting the correct parts.

IMG_8993b.JPG.044315e8052cbfa569aef57c09c7ca70.JPG

IMG_7238b.jpg.233e68f82a0c025ee089ecb6eac267b5.jpg

IMG_7239a.jpg.d7c358a7c1fd812e3457519ff602ddff.jpg

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sfw1977

Thanks for the responses again. This has been a great amount of help!

This engine is definitely Pre 1981. And I now see why i couldn't find the model number. The number would be right under where something else is mounted... hah.

But I have just looked over a bunch of these old engines, and it looks like they all basically use the same carburetor kits. I have found one and it is on order. I won't get over to check this thing until at least the weekend and I want to have the parts ready when I get there. So i am going to spend the ~$20 and hope it is the right kit.

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Chris727

One difference in the kits is the main nozzle is different. If you engine is original the numbers will likely be on the side of the blower cover instead of on top but could be on either the carb side of the engine (area circled in yellow) or the starter side of the engine:

carb.jpg

carb.jpg.349df6ed82f0a3a7510149cc92eb92b0.jpg

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sfw1977

Well I just took the carb all apart and cleaned it. It really wasn't dirty. The float is good.

I put it all back together, got it all set to try starting it. Turned the fuel shut off on, and attempted to start it. It try's to start up. Starts to fire, and then nothing. And fuel comes pouring out of the choke again.

Now, I cleaned it and put it all back together with the old parts, mostly because the gaskets were fine and I didn't see anything wrong with any of the parts.

My question now is, what could be sticking? Something must be getting stuck and allow the fuel to just keep running. The fuel will just run until my tank is empty unless I shut off the the fuel.

Is it the needle connected to the float?

Sorry for the noob mosh questions.

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sfw1977

Well, I got it! I took the carb apart again, and the little spring clip that connects the needle to the float was stuck... Squared this away and cleaned again just for the heck of it.

Lawn mowed for the first time this season!!!

Thanks again everyone for the help!

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sfw1977

Oh I knew I would like it! :D

My father in laws family have long been simplicity owners.

I just wish I had had the time to learn more from him. :(

It ran like a champ though. It needs some TLC, although he had gone through a bit of a restore on it about 10 years ago, repainted it and refurbished a bunch of it. Being in used and sitting the last couple of years shows its age a bit. Nothing that can't be fixed though. Now that I have it moving and mowing again, i'll be able to see and fix the things that need it. Hard to tell what isn't working up to snuff when it won't run. :P

Beats a store bought Tin Can any day IMO. :D

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docs

I just repaired 1 that had a crack in the float it was full of gas and to heavy  which was not letting the needle seat

causing it to get that steady stream of gas running out of the carb.

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sfw1977

Well, this is an old thread of mine, but I have more questions on this old 3314v.

It seems to run well, although this weekend I had one of the spindles that had some rust on it break.  I didn't realize the corrosion was as bad as it was.  I have a spare mower deck for it that I will either fully swap, or just borrow the parts from.  So I can get by this problem.

I have another problem however.  Two problems really.  This is a Hydrostatic model, and as far as I can tell, the tranny works fine.  I have had some issues with the throttle that I have noticed on and off over the past year.  First, the throttle will slowly back off as I am mowing.  I am unsure if it is vibration, or if maybe it is just that the mechanism that holds the throttle lever is worn out.  Is there a good way to test this?

Second, the yard I run this on has quit an uneven bunch of terrain.  Hills varying in steepness, and plenty of obsticals (trees, strubs, rocks, etc.).  Since the fall, I have noticed that on some of the steeper hills, it really starts to run low on power.  Almost struggling at times.  Especially if I have the leaf collector attached.  I guess it could be because it is running an awful lot, the mower deck, the blower in the back etc.  But even when mowing over the past few weeks, it gets weak.  I am guessing it may just be the engine is just getting old and tired.  Either that, or potentially the fuel pickup is having trouble.  Once I level off, or turn, it seems to pick right back up.  It is hard to say though, because it doesn't seem to be every time I hit these hills.

Also, just want to note, I ensure the throttle lever is all the way up when approaching these hills given the first problem I mentioned.

You all were so helpful last time, I thought I would bug you again and ask for advice!  Maintenance on this guy is something I have to take care of as there really aren't too many people around anymore who will work on these machines.

Thanks!

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MikeES

Throttle lever has a tension adjustment nut.  It is behind the gas tank, just tighten it to get the proper tension so it will stop the lever from moving on its own.

If you have a 48" deck with a bagger blower also running will tax an older/weak 14 hp.  But it could be that the governor is not functioning  properly to maintain engine rpms.

Is the governor opening the carb under this load?   If not it could also be a carb high speed adjustment and/or a governor adjustment.

As these older Briggs get old and loose compression, usually they become hard to start before you see a drop in performance.  

Edited by MikeES
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sfw1977
1 hour ago, MikeES said:

Throttle lever has a tension adjustment nut.  It is behind the gas tank, just tighten it to get the proper tension so it will stop the lever from moving on its own.

If you have a 48" deck with a bagger blower also running will tax an older/weak 14 hp.  But it could be that the governor is not functioning  properly to maintain engine rpms.

Is the governor opening the carb under this load?   If not it could also be a carb high speed adjustment and/or a governor adjustment.

As these older Briggs get old and loose compression, usually they become hard to start before you see a drop in performance.  

Thanks MikeES.

I will check the tension on the throttle next time I am over there.  I think the deck is slightly wider than 48", but would have to be there to tell.  It does not start hard, fires up pretty quick.  I will have a look at the governor and the the high speed adjustment to see if that might be it.  Considering the issues I had with the carb more than a year ago when I started this thread, I suspect that may be it.  

I very much appreciate your reply!  I will follow up with my findings.

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