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simplewrench

6216 adjustments?

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simplewrench

I have a 6216 that a guy bought at a consignment auction and couldn't get the variator adjusted correctly. So he sold it to me. I bought the correct Simplicity belts and adjusted the clutch according to the manual. I have the belt stops adjusted within 1/8" of the belt. and the belts still will not stop when the clutch is pushed in. I think that the idler pulley just in front of the transmission may be the wrong size. it does hit the variator pulley if vou have it adjusted too far back. It is a new pulley, there when I get the tractor. It measures 4 1/2". I can't find anywhere where it tells the size it should be. Just part number 1685147sm. Could someone check for me and see if this is the correct size? Otherwise I may just part this thing out, too much frustration for me. Thanks Tom

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steve-wis

Looked up the part number on Jacks small engines and it looks to be 4 1/2 inches. Does the variator center sheave slide freely? It works much like a snowmobile clutch. As you push down the variator lever it moves the assembly which makes one belt push down into the groove, moving the center and making the other belt rise up in the groove. It has to be free moving to work. Also, in the book there are instructions for adjustments and they all need to be right. The last thing would I can think of is a mistake on one of the belts. If none of this works, maybe a few pictures will shed some light on it.

Steve

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simplewrench

The variator is free as it should be. I started the engine pushed the clutch in shut the engine off and let the pedal out. then adjusted it so it was 5 1/4 inches from the foot rest to the pedal as instructed. I will try to get some pics when I get home. Thanks

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simplewrench

Oh I was going to mention. One set of instructions says to adjust the variator until it touches the under side of the tractor then back it off 2 turns. but the Variator pulley hits the idler pulley before it gets to the under side.

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Bullstok

The pulley touching the frame thing is from a old set of instructions i think. It doesnt work on any of the 3 6216's i have had lately. I use the measuring to the pedal method. I have had issues with the belt not stopping because of the motor pulley. The upper pulley (closest to the motor) has the bottom sheave loose and it has plastic spacers to let it spin freely when not under tension. If this sheave binds up it makes the belt want to pull when there is no tension on it.

Fwiw- my tensioner pulley measures 4" outside diameter (outside of the lip, to outside of the lip) and about 3 3/8" for the diameter of the surface of where the belt rides

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steve-wis

Jeremy is correct with the engine pulley info. I will have to go out and check my idler diameter, your pic does seem to look a bit bigger than what I remember mine to be. I wonder if they have changed something, at Jacks Small Engines site they show the pulley on a graph background that shows it to be 4 1/2 inches in diameter.

Also, I also use the measuring to the pedal method, didn't know there was another way to set it up. I do know that my idler comes close to the variator but does not hit it.

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simplewrench

I checked the engine pulley it was free. I took a pic of it from under, let me know if the stops are set up correctly.

6216 pulley.jpg

The pulleys are not the same size and the one closer to the trans is 4 1/2". Thanks again.

57e062abaf953_6216pulley.jpg.ecfd79d19c285a9824f4379aa4fdb6c8.jpg

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steve-wis

Might be a bit close, should be about 1/16 inch between belt and stop, which lets the belt come away from the pulley a bit, then it touches the stop which makes the pulley push the belt away from itself. Just to be sure we are on the same page, the lower half of the pulley does turn freely when there is no belt pressure on it, right?

Steve

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steve-wis

OK, I got out to the garage and got some pics, also did some checking. My idler pulley is 4 inch diameter, and so is the idler that is mounted on the angled bracket to guide the front belt. Why Jacks calls for 4 1/2 inches is a mystery to me. Here are the pics of mine that I took, some of the belt stops and some of the rest of the set-up. Don't know if you can see anything different, but take a look:

DSC01742.JPG

DSC01743.JPG

DSC01744.JPG

DSC01745.JPG

DSC01746.JPG

DSC01747.JPG

DSC01748.JPG

Don't know if this helps you at all. My belt stops are more like 1/8 inch from the belt and they work fine.Steve

DSC01742.JPG.f5a97661ce80ddc419c7ec1e2c8c7964.JPG

DSC01743.JPG.b2dcf8cd45875da0eb58ae30ee50c2b4.JPG

DSC01744.JPG.968fb94f9cebcfd05e9f55a27220dd98.JPG

DSC01745.JPG.98947a268b133e08f70a3c00e3f834c9.JPG

DSC01746.JPG.0747074f5682d6fdff7f17e7cf40afd0.JPG

DSC01747.JPG.ee8000d5a6374839d05d94980f89b6da.JPG

DSC01748.JPG.4847a0be948d5f7b04b83ce5c678e582.JPG

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simplewrench

Ok thanks again, It definitely looks like the biggest problem is the idler size. But I will readjust the stops too when I get the right sized pulley. I will let you know if that works, and yes the bottom half of the upper pulley turns freely with the belt off.

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steve-wis

Tom,

I do hope you get it all working, I think you will like the tractor. I sure do like my T816, it is my snowblowing and tilling tractor and it is great. If for some reason you don't get yours working or decide to part it out, please let me know, I might be interested in the whole tractor.

Good luck!

Steve

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simplewrench

Well that was the key. The size of the pulley would not allow enough slack to allow the belt to stop turning. I haven't taken it out and driven it but the belt stopped turning when the clutch petal was depressed.

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simplewrench

I am curious about the steering. Do those of you who have one even out the steering g or kept it so that it turns short one way and like a freighter the other?

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steve-wis

I am assuming you are turning tighter with left hand turns, which lets you get closer to stuff with the mower deck. My Allis does turn a bit tighter to the left, but not alot. If yours is alot different, you may want to adjust it some, mine has never been an issue for me.

Steve

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