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luvmymdlm

7117 LACKING POWER?

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luvmymdlm

I'm new to Simplicity's, but have had several garden tractors. This is my first 2 cylinder, hydrostatic type though. This has the 48" mower deck, and just really seems to struggle mowing the grass. I expected a 17hp, 2 cylinder to be able to mow going uphill at half speed at least. This really bogs down, and strains. Carb adjustment seems good, it has new plugs and wires, filters are good, blades are sharp, etc. I thought I'd be able to mow, and pull the roller at the same time! Am I expecting too much, or should I start digging deeper into this?

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1978Simplicity7016H

Also check your belt to see if it is twisted when you put it on. I did that on my 7016H and almost ruined the belt. Not inside out twisted but actually like grab the belt and turn one end twisted.

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luvmymdlm

Ok, I have had the engine running at full throttle, just seemed like it was really straining to get the job done, and the grass is not that heavy yet. Maybe, like I said, I was expecting too much. This is supposed to be a very powerful machine. I'm going to start digging a deeper into this. I will check the governor, also the notes about the deck and belt are possible. I didn't think too much about it, but there is a quick, nasty squeal when I engage the PTO.

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maxwood

Hello, These mower decks spin in the opposite direction and discharge on the left .Is it possible that your blades are on upside down ? or the idler pulley on the mower deck is not pivoting allowing for belt slippage.They tend to rust and need lubrication I do not know how long you have had this tractor, but mine will cut 8 inch grass no problem. How is the tractor without the mower deck engaged?the picture shows the belt s under the deck covers.Thanks Ken in Mi

mower deck rebuild 2 b 004.JPG

57e062aaac9dc_mowerdeckrebuild2b004.JPG.4ea2001366a4c59bef16eeddbf67143a.JPG

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1978Simplicity7016H

Maybe the spindle bearings are seized? Take the deck off and turn the top pulley. If it is fairly easy to turn, the deck shoudn't be the problem. Look at the belt presentation and see if anyrhing is rubbing.

Then again, ive never had a spindle seize, but maybe it would still be easy to turn slowly, just gains friction when turned faster.

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Mike_H
quote:Originally posted by 1978Simplicity7016H

Maybe the spindle bearings are seized? Take the deck off and turn the top pulley. If it is fairly easy to turn, the deck shoudn't be the problem. Look at the belt presentation and see if anyrhing is rubbing. Then again, ive never had a spindle seize, but maybe it would still be easy to turn slowly, just gains friction when turned faster.


id="quote">
id="quote">If a spindle is seized, it won't turn at all. It would be very difficult to miss a seized spindle on the deck...you'd have a smoke cloud in no time. If the bearings go bad, they get loud, but will still turn.

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luvmymdlm

Well this is bad. Thought I'd do a vacuum test, and pulled the dipstick while it was running and blowing a lot of pressure out of the crankcase. Took the aircleaner off, and its full of oil. Gonna do a compression test, but this doesnt seem good

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by luvmymdlm

Well this is bad. Thought I'd do a vacuum test, and pulled the dipstick while it was running and blowing a lot of pressure out of the crankcase. Took the aircleaner off, and its full of oil. Gonna do a compression test, but this doesnt seem good


id="quote">
id="quote">That could be a bad breather.

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luvmymdlm

Would a bad breather make it have a lot of crankcase pressure? I can see it allowing oil into the air cleaner if it was fouled, and stuck open, but this blows forcefully out the oil fill hole while it's running.

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by luvmymdlm

Would a bad breather make it have a lot of crankcase pressure? I can see it allowing oil into the air cleaner if it was fouled, and stuck open, but this blows forcefully out the oil fill hole while it's running.


id="quote">
id="quote">Yes it would. There is a reed or disc inside the breather that constantly opens and closes to keep a low crankcase pressure and allow the oil to drain to the pan. When it fails, it will cause the crankcase pressure to rise and lessen the oil to drain back.

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1978Simplicity7016H

Last night I was mowing with my reconditioned 7116 and I was thinking, maybe your problem is the cone clutch not completely engaging and it is "braking"? I know you can kill an idling engine by placing the pto lever halfway to where it brakes. Maybe take the deck drive belt off and engage the PTO and see if that pulls the engine down.

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B-16_IC

If the engine all checks out and spindle bearing are good, how's the drive belts? Worn out belts eat hp like you would not believe. Been there did that a few times!

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luvmymdlm

Well, more bad news. Compression test on rh cylinder only shows about 50 lbs. Lh tests at 85 lbs cold, and about 120 warm. Look down in the lh spark plug hole shows lots of oil, and debris, so something bad has happened in there. Looks like at least the head is coming off while I try to find the source of the failure.

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ShaunE

Sounds like you caught it in the nick of time. Before the rod put a hole in the case. That is the side that usually goes. Is your's a KT19 Series 2 with the oil filter provision? Either way, depending on the condition of the rest of the tractor, I would probably be inclined to rebuild vs. re-power. I would also add the filter adaptor & filter if it's a Series 2 & not already equipped. Cleanliness is next to Godliness with these engines. Especially under the flywheel every couple of years. You would not believe how filthy & plugged the fins get if not cleaned & maintained regularly.

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luvmymdlm

Well it's a KT17 series 2, yes. But no filter setup. The tractor is very nice. I bought it at christmas time for plowing, and because our winter was so mild, only ran it about twice. Just wish I'd caught this while it was sitting around, instead of when I needed it.

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luvmymdlm

Hmmmm, you say "before rod failure". I was planning on pulling heads, and cylinders, and hopefully just having to replace rings, maybe pistons. Do I need to be looking at the crank and rods as well? I see rebuild kits commonly come with connecting rods, but I was hoping not to have to go that deep.

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