Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

7117 LACKING POWER?


luvmymdlm

Recommended Posts

I'm new to Simplicity's, but have had several garden tractors. This is my first 2 cylinder, hydrostatic type though. This has the 48" mower deck, and just really seems to struggle mowing the grass. I expected a 17hp, 2 cylinder to be able to mow going uphill at half speed at least. This really bogs down, and strains. Carb adjustment seems good, it has new plugs and wires, filters are good, blades are sharp, etc. I thought I'd be able to mow, and pull the roller at the same time! Am I expecting too much, or should I start digging deeper into this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I almost always run the motor at full speed then use the hydro level to control the speed, especially when cutting the lawn or snow blowing

Rick......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are running the engine at full speed, and it bogs you may need to do a governor adjustment. Reset the arm on the governor shaft.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also check your belt to see if it is twisted when you put it on. I did that on my 7016H and almost ruined the belt. Not inside out twisted but actually like grab the belt and turn one end twisted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I have had the engine running at full throttle, just seemed like it was really straining to get the job done, and the grass is not that heavy yet. Maybe, like I said, I was expecting too much. This is supposed to be a very powerful machine. I'm going to start digging a deeper into this. I will check the governor, also the notes about the deck and belt are possible. I didn't think too much about it, but there is a quick, nasty squeal when I engage the PTO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello, These mower decks spin in the opposite direction and discharge on the left .Is it possible that your blades are on upside down ? or the idler pulley on the mower deck is not pivoting allowing for belt slippage.They tend to rust and need lubrication I do not know how long you have had this tractor, but mine will cut 8 inch grass no problem. How is the tractor without the mower deck engaged?the picture shows the belt s under the deck covers.Thanks Ken in Mi

mower deck rebuild 2 b 004.JPG

57e062aaac9dc_mowerdeckrebuild2b004.JPG.4ea2001366a4c59bef16eeddbf67143a.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With a 19 hp motor, you shouldn't have any problems. I ran a 48" deck with a tired 16 horse single, and it cuts anything in its path.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe the spindle bearings are seized? Take the deck off and turn the top pulley. If it is fairly easy to turn, the deck shoudn't be the problem. Look at the belt presentation and see if anyrhing is rubbing.

Then again, ive never had a spindle seize, but maybe it would still be easy to turn slowly, just gains friction when turned faster.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:Originally posted by 1978Simplicity7016H

Maybe the spindle bearings are seized? Take the deck off and turn the top pulley. If it is fairly easy to turn, the deck shoudn't be the problem. Look at the belt presentation and see if anyrhing is rubbing. Then again, ive never had a spindle seize, but maybe it would still be easy to turn slowly, just gains friction when turned faster.


id="quote">
id="quote">If a spindle is seized, it won't turn at all. It would be very difficult to miss a seized spindle on the deck...you'd have a smoke cloud in no time. If the bearings go bad, they get loud, but will still turn.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well this is bad. Thought I'd do a vacuum test, and pulled the dipstick while it was running and blowing a lot of pressure out of the crankcase. Took the aircleaner off, and its full of oil. Gonna do a compression test, but this doesnt seem good

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:Originally posted by luvmymdlm

Well this is bad. Thought I'd do a vacuum test, and pulled the dipstick while it was running and blowing a lot of pressure out of the crankcase. Took the aircleaner off, and its full of oil. Gonna do a compression test, but this doesnt seem good


id="quote">
id="quote">That could be a bad breather.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would a bad breather make it have a lot of crankcase pressure? I can see it allowing oil into the air cleaner if it was fouled, and stuck open, but this blows forcefully out the oil fill hole while it's running.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:Originally posted by luvmymdlm

Would a bad breather make it have a lot of crankcase pressure? I can see it allowing oil into the air cleaner if it was fouled, and stuck open, but this blows forcefully out the oil fill hole while it's running.


id="quote">
id="quote">Yes it would. There is a reed or disc inside the breather that constantly opens and closes to keep a low crankcase pressure and allow the oil to drain to the pan. When it fails, it will cause the crankcase pressure to rise and lessen the oil to drain back.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is some spit back out the dipstick as crankcase alternates between vacuum and pressure as the pistons (both) move out and back together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Last night I was mowing with my reconditioned 7116 and I was thinking, maybe your problem is the cone clutch not completely engaging and it is "braking"? I know you can kill an idling engine by placing the pto lever halfway to where it brakes. Maybe take the deck drive belt off and engage the PTO and see if that pulls the engine down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the engine all checks out and spindle bearing are good, how's the drive belts? Worn out belts eat hp like you would not believe. Been there did that a few times!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, more bad news. Compression test on rh cylinder only shows about 50 lbs. Lh tests at 85 lbs cold, and about 120 warm. Look down in the lh spark plug hole shows lots of oil, and debris, so something bad has happened in there. Looks like at least the head is coming off while I try to find the source of the failure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like you caught it in the nick of time. Before the rod put a hole in the case. That is the side that usually goes. Is your's a KT19 Series 2 with the oil filter provision? Either way, depending on the condition of the rest of the tractor, I would probably be inclined to rebuild vs. re-power. I would also add the filter adaptor & filter if it's a Series 2 & not already equipped. Cleanliness is next to Godliness with these engines. Especially under the flywheel every couple of years. You would not believe how filthy & plugged the fins get if not cleaned & maintained regularly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well it's a KT17 series 2, yes. But no filter setup. The tractor is very nice. I bought it at christmas time for plowing, and because our winter was so mild, only ran it about twice. Just wish I'd caught this while it was sitting around, instead of when I needed it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmm, you say "before rod failure". I was planning on pulling heads, and cylinders, and hopefully just having to replace rings, maybe pistons. Do I need to be looking at the crank and rods as well? I see rebuild kits commonly come with connecting rods, but I was hoping not to have to go that deep.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...