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7117 LACKING POWER?


luvmymdlm

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On the right hand side as you are sitting on the tractor, is there a rectangular plate held on with two 1/4" screws, forward from the jug on the crank case? If so, you can remove this plate & add the filter adaptor to the engine. You will also have to cut or grind about 3/8" from the frame for clearance for the filter. I'm not sure if all Series 2 engines had this.

To answer your question on the potential for rod failure, I would definitely have the crank measured as well. I don't personally perform "Top End Only" rebuilds unless the crank is still in spec. I always have it measured as well as the cylinders. Some say it's overkill or unnecessary, but I do not want to do it twice.

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Pull the heads and see what you got. I have repaired a couple of KT/Magnums with just a ring job. Engines had lots of blow by, low compression, but the cylinders were good and still in spec., just needed honing and new rings. I checked the rod bearings by feel, no slop or wobble I left them alone.

All the KTs I have seen with holes in the block (and I can count over a dozen) is always from the left cylinder rod, creating a hole in the right side case right behind the dip stick.

The rods break:

Lack of lube at rod journal: Usually from low on oil, the KTs only hold 1.25 qts.

Overheating: Creates too much drag on the expanded piston and breaks the rod. From dirty cylinder fins.

Over revving: Problem with KT/Magnum is the plastic governor gets brittle (especially from overheating) and breaks and causes the engine to over rev and break the rod.

Why the left cylinder (No 2) much more than the right, I don't know, but maybe because the left cylinder is further away from the fan, and runs a little hotter???

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Well, good news? I pulled the head from the Rh side (the weak side), and the piston is ok, cylinder looks fine, but loaded with oil from the failed breather. Breather was the orange disc type, and is in pieces. I have to believe the low compression is caused by leakdown around the valve because of all the oil coking. Now to get parts and put it back together, and see how it works.

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Well, no good. I got the new breather kit installed last night, ans, while it seems to run a little better, it's still not good. So it looks like I'll be opening this up and at least putting rings in it. This is the series 2 engine, and has the adapter plate where I can add the oil filter. Looks like I should be able to get the barrels off the block in the tractor. Anybody out there been there and done that? I know car engines, but these are a new adventure for me.

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  • 2 months later...

Well, lost a lot of time because my wife had to have surgery. Just getting back to this now. I ordered a re-ring kit, and have gotten it torn down to the point I'm ready to get the barrels off. Hopefully in a few days, I'll be riding the tractor, instead of swearing at it.

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If you split the case, I recommend a new governor gear. About 35 bux, but worth the investment. They are known to fail at times, and when they do, everything pretty much grenades.

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Next step. I got the barrels removed, had minor scoring in rh cylinder, but the exhaust valve guide was very bad. Sent them to local machinist and he replaced the bad guide, honed the cylinders, and put them together with the new rings. Hotter than Hades here, so no rush to mow at the moment. Got the barrels and heads on yesterday, just gotta get lots more re-assembly done. Any start up, or break in suggestions?

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Well, starting to think I'm cursed. It's all assembled and back in the tractor, now I've got no spark. Called it a day, I'll figure it out tomorrow.

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Well, must've had a loose/poor connection someplace. Went back through the connectors on the coil, points, etc, cleaned up the posts on the battery, and it fired right up. Gotta get my throttle controls adjusted correctly, and I think it'll be back in business!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wow, am I glad to have this over with. Finally up and running with good power. Set the governor up wrong several times, and couldn't get it to both move, and mow at the same time. Didn't have the throttle set at full power when I did the setting.

My advice, if you have to work on these things, just pull it out and get it on the bench, and go from there. 4 bolts on the base, 4 bolts on the shaft, and everything is easier after that.

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Congrats on your success!

I don't have a 7117, but I do have a Sovereign 18, a 7790, and a 7116, and they certainly are a nice setup of a garden tractor! You will LOVE that hydraulic lift if you have a plow, snowblower, or tiller! :D

They are also nice for mowing, you won't find a mower other than another Simplicity that mows better!

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