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Need troubleshooting help (updated, runs)


GWGAllisfan

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Today, I got a text from my father-in-law that the B-110 I had sent him to use was giving trouble. So we were going to take him my old simplicity 990314 landlord to use. This particular Landlord had been my mowing tractor several years ago, probably up to 2012, or so. It had always been good starting. Since I stopped using it regularly, it was on a trailer under a tarp, along with my 712, until both were unloaded recently. Anyway, I tried to get it started. I knew the battery was bad, and since it was converted to a battery coil ignition, I Started with jumping it off, to make sure I had spark. I was and am still pretty sure the carb would need cleaning, but I wanted to start with fire.

At first it did not have any fire at all. Traced the wire, made sur connections were good, now I can get spark when I short the coil. Ok that makes me think points. I cleaned the points and got maybe intermittent fire. Still can get a spark at plug by shorting points to coil lead. After much cleaning I can get some spark by opening and closing points by hand, and by rotating crank back and forth. At this point I put a little fuel down the spark plug hole, and it fired for a second, then would fire again. Looking at points, I can again get the plug to fire on the head by rotating the crank. It will do that, but won’t fire when turning over with the starter. Plug out and on the head.

When I have spark it’s strong spark. With my meter, I have around 12 volts at the coil and at the points box. There is continuity in the points when they close.

So what’s next? Condenser? Maybe new points, though the current ones seem to be working. Once I get consistent spark then I can move to fuel…Remember it’s battery ignition, not magneto.

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Have you tried removing the points and making sure that they are grounded. I had a similar problem and found someone had put some kind of sealer behind the points once I removed them and cleaned them I got spark.could be rust also.

Just a thought .

Gary

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Other than the fact this ran before, I wonder if the key is bad. I had a situation like this before, with the wrong key setup. It would spin the motor, but in the "start" position it was actually grounding the spark. So unless you caught it just right and went from spinning it and trying to start to the "run" position at just the right time, it wouldn't fire. It had spark in the run position, but not he start position. Drove me nuts! I had spark in the run position, but spin it all day long with the starter and no spark.

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Condenser. What did the points look like when you started cleaning? Were they burned evenly across the contacts, or more to one side? One side, says your condenser was bad and you were ready for problems in 2012, just stopped using before it happened

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Well, today I was able to get back to it. I was doubting the condenser, so I changed that. The spark wasn't much better, but guessing that it being stronger when shorted, than when with pointsome meant dirty points, I cleaned them again. All I had was a fingernail file, but that worked. Much improved spark. Then I noticed a valve stuck up, no compression, managed to get that down, now it ran for a little while on a carb full of brake cleaner. Drained old fuel, put in new, tapped on carb to unstuck float, and it ran for several minutes. Unsteady, but ran. I'm sure I need to rebuild the carb, since it pours fuel now. I had to stop for a while since the battery is dead from all the cranking.

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With all your cleaning and filing on the points, do they still make contact across the face of the contacts?

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Yes, point contact is good now. I think it's probably ready to start using, as soon as I get battery charged back up. It might need a carb rebuild, as it seems to pour gas out the carb bottom. I need to look up the number for the carb kit for a four bolt flo-jet and get one on the way. I hope to get back to it this week some time.

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