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Kenzen

Briggs 14HP 320421 Electronic Ignition Conversion?

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Kenzen

Is there a bolt on replacement ignition coil for the 320421 in my 3314V to convert to electronic ignition? It seems my points plunger is shot, so I'm hoping to simply eliminate the need for the points.

Thanks!

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PhanDad

I believe there is a magnetron conversion for your engine. But besides the new magneto coil, you have to get the flywheel repolarized. Some folks swear it's the way to go.

I put a Mega Fire on my 12HP Briggs powered Homelite T-12, an engine very similar to yours. See this post:

http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=122175

You can also do a search for Mega Fire and see lots of posts.

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Mike_H

Yes, you can get a magnetron armature, and eliminate points. You will need the flywheel repolarized though. The armature is about 45 buck, and repolarizing essentially free. You'll be able to almost eliminate "no spark" from your troubleshooting methods.

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Kenzen
quote:Originally posted by midnightpumpkin

This is what I have used with great sucess.http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEGA-FIRE-II-IGNITION-MODULE-440-465-KAWASAKI-21119-2161-LESCO-050409-NOVA-II-/281904533107?hash=item41a2d1ce73:g:ZF8AAOSwNSxVW7PHFor $11 you can't beat it.John U


id="quote">
id="quote">How does this work? What's the trigger?

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PhanDad
quote:How does this work? What's the trigger?id="quote">
id="quote">It works by the magic of modern electronics. The circuitry detects the flywheel magnets at the magneto coil (or approaching it, I'll leave that to the EE's) and it breaks the secondary circuit just like points do.

MegaFire_Directions.jpg

MegaFire_Directions.jpg.d5a1bb81a8d7f4546b06341e12eb9b90.jpg

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Kenzen

So I installed a Mega Fire II, and based on a spark tester, it's firing. However the engine is not starting. The carb is a fresh rebuild with fresh gas, and it's flooding as I crank. The vacuum seems ok as I crank it. Compression is 80#, yet I believe there is a compression relief mechanism. I sprayed starting fluid in, and still nothing.

With all that said, I'm questioning the timing or maybe an inadequate starting speed. Any thoughts?

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fishnwiz

Sounds like too much fuel at carb if flooding. Try stopping all fuel to carb and clearing the bowl of fuel....then try starter fluid to see if engine fires. You may have incorrect float level or wrong type needle causing unlimited fuel into the carb.

If carb is fooded at start of starting procedures it will NOT start.

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Kenzen

I did shut off the fuel to the carb (I have a valve installed) and give it a whirl - no go. I also pulled the plug and there was no evidence of flooding in the chamber - the plug tip appeared dry. IIRC, the needle valve is metal, with a rubber insert on the seat. I'd like to think these carbs are pretty reliable. I'll pull it apart again and check everything.

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MikeES

Pull the plug and pour some gas in the spark plug hole and try it. I have never had much faith in starting fluid on updraft carbs.

This will tell if it is a bad spark and maybe still fire if bad timing.

Does your tester showing good bright light or is it weak and hard to see. I have had a spark though somewhat weak that did not fire, once in the engine under compression.

Usually cured with a new plug or new points.

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Kenzen

Weak and hard to see, but I bought the tester for this job, and never used it elsewhere to compare. I'll put it on another working engine to see what it looks like on something that runs.

I'll try this today hopefully...

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Mike_H

Which type of tester do you have? The lighted ones are OK, but imho the gapped ones are better. The one briggs recommends is gapped. Even with the plug in the engine and under compression, I get a hot enough spark to hear the snap when it fires.

I've had my lighted tester lite up, but not have enough spark to run the engine.

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