Kenzen 1 Posted May 25, 2016 I believe my 3314V uses a lifting rod vice the cable my 917H has, to operate the rear lift. The tractor didn't come with one, and I'm a bit perplexed how this rod makes it directly to the rocker shaft. I also don't have the lift bracket that goes on the shaft in the rear of the tractor, but I do have a spare one for my 917H. Begin questions: I can't seem to figure out a part number or any specific identification characteristics for the lift rod: How do I identify the correct lift rod? (And if anyone has one for sale, I'm interested.) Will my spare lift bracket from my 917H work on my 3314V? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhanDad 3,616 Posted May 26, 2016 UCD (RIP) knows all. See his post in this thread:http://simpletractors.com/Club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=88034I've never seen a split lift rod.The links gregc listed no longer work. Maybe someone has copies. I don't.The solid rods snake through like this (3212H): And the rod: Don't remember who set me the pics, might have been FireFox Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenzen 1 Posted May 26, 2016 The link you provided reaffirms the difficulty in finding a part number for this lift. The routing of that lift rod seems to defy laws of physics (i.e. two objects in one space at the same time). I believe I've seen that two piece lift rod on ebay once, and I think I'm safe in assuming that if another one pops up its the "right one" for the 3314. Thanks all! Ken Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blazerjeepman3 3 Posted May 26, 2016 I have a 3314V with the factory lift rod and it is a 2 piece type with what I call the loop connection on each piece Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blazerjeepman3 3 Posted May 26, 2016 A solid lift rod would work if you want to apply down force to a rear attachment, I welded the loops together for one of my 3314 when I built a rear blade frame for a grader blade that was used on old Landlord and B10 from the 60's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bkassulke 25 Posted May 27, 2016 I have a two piece rear lift rod on my b212 variable. I am not a fan of it as I like down force to be able to be applied and since it had a hydro lift I can just put it in float if I need to. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenzen 1 Posted June 1, 2016 I think my way ahead is to simply bend/weld a custom rod. It seems to be 3/8" stock. I'll make it work with the 917H bracket I have. Thanks all! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Talntedmrgreen 1,978 Posted June 2, 2016 Your 917 bracket will work just fine, but the fdt lift brackets are extremely common and cheap if you don't want to hassle with flipping them back and forth between machines. If no need, no worries. The 2 piece rod and rear lift bracket are on ebay now...seems a little steep to me, but I don't see that rod very often. I wonder how it compares in length to a solid or split rod from a hydro/variable FDT. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Allis-Chalmers-Simplicity-Rear-Tube-Lift-Hitch-Rod-3310V-Tractor-/172188279947 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RayS 79 Posted June 2, 2016 I have a NOS split rod that I will never use. I will get a picture when I get home. The eBay one isn't bad. It would easily be double that if Simplicity still made them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Talntedmrgreen 1,978 Posted June 2, 2016 quote:Originally posted by RaySIt would easily be double that if Simplicity still made them. id="quote">id="quote">haha...yeah, that's the truth! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RayS 79 Posted June 2, 2016 If not more. That bushing on the lift arm is $35. The lift arms were over a $100. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenzen 1 Posted June 3, 2016 I have a full spare lift bracket for the 917H, with shaft and fittings. I bought it in a complete kit with the cable, and only needed the cable. Based on a comment made above, I'm inclined not to get the OEM split rod and rather make my own simply to be able to put a down pressure on my York rake. I may beef up the rod with something thicker (1/2" maybe) and weld the fittings at the ends to adapt to the rocker and the lift arm. I also have a 12vdc linear actuator lying around...I might get creative Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites