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PaulK

3212h ignition coil

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PaulK

My '69 3212H Sovereign starts, runs nicely for about 3/4 of an hour cutting the grass, and then suddenly stops. Won't re-start until it cools off quite a bit. Researched here to see what might be the causes, so have cleaned carb & checked points. Problem persists, so it sounds like a possible ignition coil issue. Can I get at that without major surgery? It looks like (haven't tried yet) the shroud won't come of without disconnecting the drive train and essentially taking the engine out of the tractor. Engine is a Briggs 300421 127 01 69 06 11, best I can tell. Don't want to spend two hours finding out it is going to take me 20, so thought I'd better ask here first.

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gwiseman

You'll need to get easy access to the coil & that'll require removing the engine shroud. So take hood & grill frame off & take a look. From that vantage point you'll have much better idea if you can remove the shroud or if you need to pull the engine to have sufficient access (I would) it's fairly easy.

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PaulK

Taking off the hood and grill frame gives access to the Cover Assembly - PTO side - on this tractor. According to the parts diagram the ignition coil is on the other side of the engine under the blower housing. My question is whether the blower housing can be eased out of the way enough to access the ignition coil without having to remove the engine from the tractor. Taking the engine out adds delays and degrees of complexity to the fix that I am not eager to take on.

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PhanDad

I'm pretty sure your 3212H shares the same basic frame as my B-110. The engine is set down into a cut in the bottom of the frame (you can see it from underneath) and the gas tank/battery support is also very close to the engine. I also believe there are a couple of screws at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions that you can't reach without lifting the engine. I don't see anyway you could get the blower tin off to install a new coil without raising the engine and removing the front grill.

It also means the hood comes off, and the driveshaft is disconnected. Probably the gas line, choke, and throttle cables too depending on how much slack is available. IMO, it's not a difficult job, but it is time consuming.

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Simplicity7013H

You need to remove the booster fan also. There is really no way around taking the engine out to replace the coil. If you don't want to pull the motor just yet I would start with checking the condenser as was stated above. Also use some 600 grit Emory paper to clean the point contacts just to make sure there is no residue or corrosion on them.

Check out this video from ZippoVarga... He shows you how to easily take the motor out hassle free.

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Blazerjeepman3

Use a fine emory 600 paper as mentioned above on the points.Just slide the paper folded over between the points several times. This way both contacts get resurfaced evenly. No real sanding is necessary. I usually slide a piece of paper between the contacts after using emory paper to clean up any grit that may be left.

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