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jcdockery

DA 1920 Wiring Diagram and Service Manual

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jcdockery

I recently acquired a rough, non-running DA 1920, and have been nursing it back to life as a yard tug.

There's been some wiring butchery, that I'm trying to restore. Every safety circuit has been bypassed. You can start the engine with the go stick on go, the PTO switch active, no one on the seat, etc. And the fuel gauge and hour meter don't work. I'm trying to put all that back together so I feel safe letting my 8 year old drive it around the yard. (he's an advanced user, for 8)

I have found a 1996-1997 electrical wiring information pdf, that _may_ be close enough.

I have downloaded the parts, operators, and attachments manual from Simplicity, as well as the Kohler M20 operators and service manual.

I'm also hunting the service and repair manual for the DA 1920, model 1691392. I've hit a wall with all my favorite search engines. Anyone have one they'd be willing to send along?

I have not yet called Simplicity Tech Pubs.

At this point, I've gotta pay someone for it, I'm more than willing to send a donation to the site operations or similar.

Thank you for your time.

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PhanDad

Your tractor's mfg#1691392, is listed in the 1993 Simplicity Electrical Info Manual as an Agco Allis product 1900 Series ,20HP. The manual contains Wiring Schematics, etc.

If you would like an electronic .pdf copy, PM or email your email addie and send it to you (file too large for Club mail).

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Erch

Hi, I recently purchased an agco allis 1920h and have used it a few times. Great tractor. A former student of mine is working on restoring it and needs some manuals, especially a wiring manual. I noticed that several people said they might have one. My student is a good car mechanic but doesn't work on mowers much so any hel would be appreciated. I myself can change oil and filters, plugs, etc, but dont do electrical or other type of work like that. Just not in my skill set.

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lkjhg1948

I have a rough, non-running DA 1920:

model

1691392

serial number 14321

As a first step, I have been trying to get it started.

There's been some wiring butchery.  The wire colors do not  match the Simplicity Sunstar 1997 Electrical Information Manual or the  Simplicity Sunstar 1990 Electrical Information Manual wiring diagrams that I have. The safety circuit on the tractor operator seat has been bypassed.   The M20 engine will not crank using the key switch, so I assume one or several of the safety circuits has been blocking the crank circuit.  I can jump the solenoid and it will crank but it will not start. The solenoid is good.  I have clean fuel delivered to the carburetor through an electric fuel pump but it would not start so I boiled out the carburetor. I have not tried to start the engine after installing the carburetor.  I assume that if it will crank there are no other circuits that will block ignition and if fuel is reaching the cylinder, it should start.  Is that correct?

 

I am not concerned about DA authenticity.  Aesthetics are not important to me.  For example, I will use a simplicity 60 inch [model 1691184] deck on this tractor.  My goal is a reliable, smooth-riding, mowing-machine.   Can anyone guide me toward this goal? What should I do next?       

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ShaunE

The fuel pump is mechanical so it will pump while the engine is cranking.  Do you have spark?  I'm guessing not.  Just because you can jump the solenoid doesn't mean it's good.  Safety circuits may be the cause as well as a bad key switch or solenoid.  With the key in the run position, crank the engine & verify if you have spark or not.  If you have spark, then I would be looking into the key switch, solenoid & safety circuits.  If you don't have spark, then you have additional problems such as ignition coils or engine wiring.

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lkjhg1948

1.  Fuel pump is not mechanical.  The electric fuel pump must have replaced the OEM, mechanical, fuel pump after the machine was manufactured. It runs when wired directly to the battery and fuel gets to the carburetor.  I do not know if the carburetor is working properly after I had it cleaned.

2.  I have spark.  I had spark before I boiled out the carburetor and have not tried to start the engine since installing the cleaned carburetor.  If I have spark at the spark plug does that mean that all the safety circuits  are operational?  If safety circuits were not operational, I would have no spark at the spark plug.  Is that correct?  I really do not understand what the safety circuits do to prevent engine run.

I have tested the solenoid:  

        1.  battery positive attached directly  to left side of solenoid input.

        2.  battery negative attached directly to right side of solenoid input

         3.  The engine cranked.

Is my solenoid test adequate?  Do you agree that the solenoid is ok?

I have a new key switch.  Manufactured by genuine parts. Part # 9258-0267.  Part description="3-position; 5-prong.  fits all lawn and garden tractors 1999-2004.  Do you think this is the correct replacement key switch?

 

Thanks for your help

 

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PhanDad

I have never worked on one of these type tractors.. But if I remember correctly, there is a "test panel" in the wiring of these tractors.  Someone posted how to troubleshoot the wiring based on reading from the test panel.  

If you search the site's posts, you might be able to find it.  I would think it should help find your electrical problems.  

 

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ShaunE

Taryl can explain better on how to test a solenoid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvW7VbsleZ0

If your key switch is the correct simplicity key switch then I would agree that it is good as well.  A lot of times people buy them from a store without checking the letters on the back to verify they are the same as the OEM.  Just because the tabs line up doesn't always mean they are the same. 

I'm glad Bill above brought up the "Test Panel" as I have never worked on one of these tractors either.

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lkjhg1948

RE: PhanDad  "test panel" in the wiring of these tractors. 

 

This is fantastic information.  Thanks.  I will search the site for the "test panel" troubleshooting information.

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lkjhg1948

ShaunE:  Thanks for the solenoid suggestion.  I have seen the "test panel" on the tractor but did not know how to use it.  I hope I can find the troubleshooting guide and be able to use it to solve the wiring problems.

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lkjhg1948

Engine is running.  The electrical problem was the wiring harness was not properly seated into the middle safety switch [see pg30 of 39 Simplicity Electrical Information Manual-1993].  There was a fuel problem too.  Although the carburetor was boiled out the main jet passageway in the carburetor  was filled with sludge.   Transmission works forward and reverse.  Next issue is the front PTO clutch.  Clutch does not engage when the switch is engaged.   I get no continuity through the clutch.  The resistance through the clutch is 1 ohm on all multi-meter ohm ranges.  Does that mean no current flows through the clutch?  What ohm reading should I get when placing my meter between the two wires on the clutch?  I direct wired the clutch wires to a fully charged 12v battery.  I heard no 'click' that might indicating the clutch was working.    What should I do next to get the front PTO operating?

Edited by lkjhg1948
spelling errors corrected

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Alltractoredup
7 hours ago, lkjhg1948 said:

Engine is running.  The electrical problem was the wiring harness was not properly seated into the middle safety switch [see pg30 of 39 Simplicity Electrical Information Manual-1993].  There was a fuel problem too.  Although the carburetor was boiled out the main jet passageway in the carburetor  was filled with sludge.   Transmission works forward and reverse.  Next issue is the front PTO clutch.  Clutch does not engage when the switch is engaged.   I get no continuity through the clutch.  The resistance through the clutch is 1 ohm on all multi-meter ohm ranges.  Does that mean no current flows through the clutch?  What ohm reading should I get when placing my meter between the two wires on the clutch?  I direct wired the clutch wires to a fully charged 12v battery.  I heard no 'click' that might indicating the clutch was working.    What should I do next to get the front PTO operating?

I'm not sure I understand your clutch test with battery....if you put 12V to clutch connection you should hear a click. If no click the clutch is bad or wiring to clutch is damaged.  Not sure on ohms reading, but I thought I read it is supposed to be around 2-3 ohms???

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BruceH

Might also want to verify the air gap on the clutch isn't excessive. 

 

If the air gap is too large it will not engage.  I think .015 is in the ballpark for the air gap, but if someone knows the exact measurement please advise.

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lkjhg1948

Bruce H says:  If the air gap is too large it will not engage.  I think .015 is in the ballpark for the air gap, but if someone knows the exact measurement please advise.

 

You were correct. The correct 0.015"gap provides the 'click' on my clutch..   I do not have belts on the pulley but no pulley movement occurs when I  turn on the clutch at the PTO switch.  Do you have more suggestions?  

 

Today I read pages 5 and 6 of the M20 parts manual [see attached] and found that the incorrect valve-cover [see No. 9] is on the #1 cylinder side of the engine. There was no gasket between the lower cover and the crankcase.  The engines is leaking oil profusely around these number one cylinder valve-covers.  Will RTV silicone gasket-maker work well on these valve covers?  I can make valve-cover gaskets using Fel-Pro Karropak which is only about 1/32" thick but will a thin gasket be effective?  If I buy cork or rubberized cork, how thick should it be?  Do you think there was originally a grommet-type gasket in the valve-covers where the stud comes through the valve-covers?

 

When I removed the number one cylinder valve-covers I found that there was no  filter, breather [see No 6] and no seal, breather [see No 7] between the upper and lower valve-covers.  Do these parts reduce the amount of oil leaving the valve-cover through the breather hose [see No 1] and depositing on the air-filter-base?  How are these parts supposed to be installed inside the valve-covers?  

 

I managed to destroy the umbrella valve [see No 8] when removing the valve-cover.  I find that the umbrella valve is not available and one has to buy a $25 replacement 5203502S Breather Assembly.  This new breather assembly replaces the rubber umbrella valve 5246201.  Certainly somebody supplies rubber umbrella valves for about $0.25.  Do you have any umbrella valve supplier suggestions?

I wish to pass along my information about electronic fuel pumps.  Mine was a 40106 Cube Solid State fuel pump which is rated for 4-7psi and 32gph. The fuel pump supplier believed this pump is too much for a M20 and recommended a 2-4psi pump like a 40178 which is rated for 2-3.5psi and 15gph.  I think the fuel pump was overpowering  my carburetor inlet needle, placing a tremendous amount of gasoline in the cylinder which found it way into the crankcase I contacted the carburetor supplier and they recommended that I revert to the impact fuel pump.  I removed the electronic fuel pump, drained the gasoline-laden oil and reconnected the impact pump that was still on the tractor.  It seems to work well. 

 

I also found that the M20-owners-manual-recommended amount of oil needed during an M20 oil change was 56 ounces.  It only required 32 ounces to fill my M20 to the 'F' on the dip stick.   Maybe it is not the correct dip stick. 

Thanks again for all your help

https://www.gravelymanuals.com/pdf/Kohler_M20S_Spec49562_IPL.pdf

 

190923 CLUTCH.JPG

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