Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
392chryslerhemi

7117 engine swap

Recommended Posts

392chryslerhemi

I need some help from you experts. I recently purchased a simplicity 7117 and after much searching found a kt17 like it came with from the factory. It has a 14hp Briggs motor in it now. How big of a job would it be to swap these? On the surface it really doesn't look too intimidating. I am mechanically inclined but have never tackled a job like this. What are the steps I should follow? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Ryan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLT

If you have a product number of current tractor, i.e. 169XXXX, we can get you a like Briggs powered unit parts book and an original KT parts book that you can kind of use for reference. The exsisting harness was either replaced or modified to make the Briggs engine work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MikeES

You are taking out a B&S and putting in a KT17 right.

Ignition is different, Briggs is a magneto and the KT is a battery ignition, so either the ignition switch was changed or it has a relay installed. Hope it has a relay. Otherwise you will need to either change the ignition switch or install a relay.

Flywheel to drive shaft adaptor is different, maybe you got one with the KT.

Throttle and choke cables may not work with the KT. If they are the factory cables for the Briggs...the throttle will be too long and the choke too short.

Just some things to think about and plan for.

Did you get an exhaust with the KT?

Do you have the rubber or flex disk coupling on the current engine?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
392chryslerhemi

Thanks guys. The id number of the tractor is 1690571. The serial number of the engine is 1526627576...I don't think this engine was originally in a simplicity. Does the style of flywheel matter? I've done some searching and the adapter on mine doesn't look like what I find when I search for a 7117 flywheel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
392chryslerhemi

Thanks Mike. The ignition switch is the original one that came on the tractor. I did purchase new throttle and choke cables and I actually found a brand new muffler ( new old stock) as well as the muffler shield. Sorry, what do mean by rubber or flex disk coupling?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLT

The corresponding Briggs powered tractor carried a peoduct number of 1690474 and the Kohler spec number is PS24154A for the 1690571. I might have the muffler for it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PhanDad

Here's the marked up wiring diagrams from when I installed a Briggs into a 17GTH-L. I used the existing wiring harness and a new "magneto" ignition switch. I moved some wires in the ignition switch connector. Maybe whoever did your swap did a similar way and with a "external coil" ignition switch you can swap the wires back to original.

16GTHL_Wire7117_a.jpg

16GTHL_Wire7116b.jpg

I ran a separate new wire for the magneto "kill" function. Also added an electric PTO safety in the start wiring.

16GTHL_Wire7117_a.jpg.e7eb9df5ae9a5f4f29c9924bdeb3aaab.jpg

16GTHL_Wire7116b.jpg.fd96eb70747a56ba108760c1b13fc451.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PhanDad

The early mfg #1690571 7117 didn't come stock with the rubber coupler. Here's the parts diagram:

1690571_DriveShaft.JPG

The driveshaft is connected to the KT17 with a spacer.The driveshaft for a Briggs is longer. This is a rubber coupling used on the newer 7117's (including the later mfg#1690571) and 17GTH-L:

IMG_7170a.jpg

The effective thickness including the bosses is 1-3/4". And the parts diagram using the rubber coupling:

1690571_DriveShaft_RubberCoupler.JPG

An adapter is used between the engine and the rubber coupler. The driveshaft length for a 7117 (with KT17) using a rubber coupling is 17-3/8" outer flange face to outer flange face.

1690571_DriveShaft.JPG.b372adaa7806340f1f6442f0e8d0baa6.JPG

IMG_7170a.jpg.efbf8ad985086f8f4f8e1fb3572a2895.jpg

1690571_DriveShaft_RubberCoupler.JPG.6116d9e297a88f662210dc4920623b75.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
392chryslerhemi

Great info, thanks Bill. So there are 2 capscrews that bolt to the flywheel correct? The adapter plate that is on the tractor now with the Briggs motor has 3. So it looks like I need to find an adapter plate ..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLT
quote:Originally posted by 392chryslerhemi

Great info, thanks Bill. So there are 2 capscrews that bolt to the flywheel correct? The adapter plate that is on the tractor now with the Briggs motor has 3. So it looks like I need to find an adapter plate ..


id="quote">
id="quote">Kohler supplied their KT's with a cast adaptor bolted to the flywheel that transitioned out so you could bolt on the coupling adator shown in the parts sheet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
392chryslerhemi

I do need the wiring harness for the 7117 part number-1703555 and the compression coupling part number-1668637. Not having any luck finding these. Can anybody help? Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Brettw

Part #32 in the diagram above will bolt into any of the KT / magnum twin flywheels I have seen. I can look, but I am quite sure I have the proper driveshaft and couplers, and I may have the part #32 layin' around somewhere too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
maxwood

Hello, Here are photos of the 2 types of adapters The first is cast iron and is used with the rubber donut . The 2nd is aluminum and used with the flex disc and each uses a different drive shaft.

22 HP predator motor 002.JPG

22 HP predator motor 003.JPG

Thanks Ken inMi

57e062d3a897c_22HPpredatormotor002.JPG.0531ab21854fdc2f6d5e375b732a3f54.JPG

57e062d3b286d_22HPpredatormotor003.JPG.09deba88dcac35e55abe6adddd2c91c2.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
392chryslerhemi

Thanks for all the info guys. I have found an adapter plate. But I do need a wiring harness (solenoid to engine) and compression coupling. Can anyone help me out? Thanks, Ryan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PhanDad

Ryan,

Unless the harness that's in the tractor is totally shot, I've found it easier to just run a replacement wire where needed. That said, I do have most of the various size and gender wire connectors on hand.

Only harness I may have is one from a 7116 and that wouldn't have all the correct wires so if you don't find exactly the harness you need, you'll have to run a few wires anyway.

As you can see from the marked up Briggs wiring diagram, the other thing I do to make the wiring less complicated is I remove the "interlock module" and wire the tractors with just the safeties preventing the tractors from starting as was "standard" on the older RBT tractors. The newer way is safer so this isn't a recommendation; it's just what I do. It also helps minimize the needed wiring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • Larrybell57
  • Today's Birthdays

    1. Chris727
      Chris727
      (37 years old)
    2. jdwilson
      jdwilson
      (65 years old)
  • Recent Status Updates

    • Dean McFadden

      Dean McFadden

      Good morning peeps! I’m always searching for helpful information with my AC collection. Hope to find out new information and pass on my own experience in restoration. Here are some pics of my babies. I’m still looking for front rims for the 410 so yesterday I put the 310 wheels on took it for a drive. Working pretty good but still needs some carb work. Gotta get the 310 running next. Have a great day!😁
       

      · 1 reply
    • thedaddycat

      thedaddycat  »  SmilinSam

      It's in pretty sad shape, but yes I have a yellow plastic cap that I'm fairly certain is what you need. PM me your details and I'll get it out to you.
      · 0 replies
  • Adverts

×