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4041 stalling problem


Gcabinet1

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Yes it's me again.

My progress so far

Brakes unlocked, new seals and o rings

New carburetor

Oil and filter change engine and transmission.

New problem

she starts ok on full choke,with the throttle in the slowest

position but as soon as I take the choke off or start to push the throttle forward she stalls out. I have ordered

Points, condense and plugs.will put them in when they come.

I suspect the governor adjustment?

Your input has gotten me through so far

Thanks again for all the help!

Gary

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Sounds like you are an expert "parts changer" at this point VS troubleshooting the problem.

Tom(PK)

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I would go with carb settings, and it is set too lean. You might also have the points set too far apart, which would retard spark, but that should not make it stall when opening the throttle. Before you go to the trouble of changing the point and condenser, try simply cleaning the points with emery cloth, and adjusting the carburetor. Keep spare parts for when they are needed. The ignition parts are not necessary at this point

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Ok thanks so much guys

Do you think it could be a bad fuel filter?

I tried adjusting the carb !

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Gary, I would check for vacuum leaks, particularly where the intake and exhaust manifolds join together.

It's a learning experience, ignore comments such as "Sounds like you are an expert "parts changer" at this point VS troubleshooting the problem."

Those comments don't help anyone.

John U

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Gary, sounds like you have overcome everything thrown at you so far and you will get this too. If you are confident you have a good tune, good plugs gapped right, points clean and gapped, timing set per spec, etc then as John says check for vacuum leaks in the manifold, those would make a lean condition if in the intake side, also if your tank had any crud that may have gone to the carb you might not be able to adjust as others have suggested. I usually try running the screws all the way in gently to dislodge anything stuck there and then put back to initial tune. If your governor and or linkage was cobbled then you may have some more research and tuning trial and error to do there. Good luck, you will get there!

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Thanks Isetta

Will keep you posted.

I did mess with the linkage so maybe I screwed something up.i was trying to get the rpms up.

The idle speed screw was turned all the way in

But still was not making contact with the seat plate for the screw. So I shortened the rod with the two ball joints on the end and (like. Dummy bent the governor link)

Should have known better. I will take it apart and try an get it back to where it was.

Don't laugh to much!

Gary

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It's always that last little bit trying to get it just right and bam, bending something and it breaks, tightening and it strips, painting and it runs, ah crap so then we fix it and go on

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Looks like I found the culprit , I started it up to try and figure things out and noticed after it stalled gas was coming out of the carb, float not working on a new carburetor ? So I pulled the carb and pulled off the bowel. Lots of dirt and crap , not sure how it got through the filter? I pulled the gas tank again and have gotten most of the loose rust out but still doesn't look great in there. Have any of you used Por 15 tank sealer?

Thanks again

Gary

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Throw some PineSol and a bunch of smallish nuts and bolts in the tank, shake, swirl, rattle and dance with the mutha until it shines inside. I am leery of tank treatments but even if you do use one they will likely tell you to clean it out as much as you can before applying the treatment. I did this with a Lincoln welder gas tank and it cleaned up sweet.

Also hate to say it but you might also have crap in the mechanical fuel pump too.

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quote:Originally posted by isetta

Throw some PineSol and a bunch of smallish nuts and bolts in the tank, shake, swirl, rattle and dance with the mutha until it shines inside. Also hate to say it but you might also have crap in the mechanical fuel pump too.


id="quote">
id="quote">I agree with both points. Sheet metal screws work well to break the rust loose inside the tank.Definetely flush the fuel pump after you put the clean tank back on. I keep a small plastic lawn mower tank to use as a subsitute when I am working on a tractor with tank issues. That allows going forward to sort out other problems while you work on the tank.John U
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I have been using Red-Kote sealer on all tanks I work on. As stated above, the sealer manufacturer says to clean all loose rust and debris from the tank first. Bolts, sheet metal screws, sheetrock screws, sharp gravel, whatever you have available inside the tank, then shake, rattle and roll. Follow that with water and rinse til the water runs clear when pouring out of the tank. I use MEK as a final couple of rinses. MEK will remove all water, and dries quickly inside the tank. It is also the thinner for Red-Kote, so I always have some handy. Label instructions for most sealers are there to sell product. With whatever you use, go to the website and see what others have done. I do a 50/50 thinned first coat, followed by a 75/25 second coat in everything, and have never had a problem. If you have trash all the way to the fuel bowl, flush the entire system, or pull a Joe..new lines, new filter, and there is nothing to worry about. Good luck!

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