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dentwizz

Sickle idea

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dentwizz

Has anyone had a thought or experience with making or finding roller based sickle bar hold downs? I saw a mention on another forum for a larger one but can't find it in reality. It seems like a good idea unless it would be cloggy and not too hard to fabricate. Thoughts?

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GardenTrACtorguy
quote:Originally posted by dentwizz

Has anyone had a thought or experience with making or finding roller based sickle bar hold downs? I saw a mention on another forum for a larger one but can't find it in reality. It seems like a good idea unless it would be cloggy and not too hard to fabricate. Thoughts?


id="quote">
id="quote">I thought about one for sickle bar on my B-112 once, but in the long run it would probably clog up with glass. Like you said, it shouldn't be hard fabricate.

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dentwizz

One other need-based situation I just had today was the main crank bearing that the belt drives on just disintegrated. I know the OEM design is for a needle bearing set but I have been less than impressed with the failure mode of those in the sickle application. They are good for drag and all but when a needle goes it goes relatively shortly and badly. I am considering going with a bushing set instead if I can get the ID/OD of the journal and shaft. Because of how it failed it will likely need a new shaft at the same time which I know the factory one is NLA.

What was the shaft OD? I can get shaft stock fairly easily if that is a known(also relates to finding the bushing size). I have a few hundred bucks of production work riding on getting it back online asap but limited cash on hand.

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GregB

Shaft OD .725

Bearing OD 1.002

Sizes from new shaft and bearing

Guess the shaft OD to bearing is running fit.

Bearing OD to casting is slight press fit.

Shaft length from lever to end ~3.805

Half Moon keyway for pulley ~.500 from center of radius to end of shaft.

At least on the part I have..............

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dentwizz

How much would you want for the shaft if I opt that way? My shaft is not worn down but it is marred from stray rollers. Now that I know the OD I know there is still races in the casting to punch out(non compliantlysm00 I'm hoping the bearing store might have something of a bearing inner race design compatible so I don't need a new shaft but we will see in the morning.

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GregB

If you are going the bushing route, try to get oil impregnated bushings. Some are actually grooved to carry lube/grease.

I would just hit the shaft with a stone or light file to take off the high spots, if there are any. Then polish up the shaft good with some fine emery or crocus cloth.

At least that will get you back into action cheaply.

Then remember to squirt some oil/lube on the bushings. Not sure if there is a grease zerk at that location.

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dentwizz

Ended up going to the bearing store with measurements and got the Koyo roller bearing to fit. both bearings $12. The shaft was worn egg shaped beyond limit so I found wieght machine stack rod at work which is solid and chromed smooth, cut it and welded the old end on. Hardest part was getting the old super flattened roller housing out. Ended up drilling a couple holes in from the outside of the journal to dent the metal inward. Used a large bolt and piece of shaft as an alignment aid to pull it all together.

Of course, lots and LOTS of loctite putting it all back together. I think the next battle will be the bgb soft driveshaft coupling. It still has the rubber interface and one hole is showing wear.

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dentwizz

Welding broke on repaired shaft so I started with a new shaft/throw combo. Never having been a fan of the single throw crankshaft, I made a new one with a 50%longer counter-throw to see if mass balancing would help. In a word YES. At low speed it is dead smooth and mid speed(or upper sickle speed) it is vastly improved.

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