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GardenTrACtorguy

Sickle Bar

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GardenTrACtorguy

I have a sickle bar on my B-112 and I was wondering why I keep shearing a bolt. Shouldn't the spring trip go before I I shear the bolt?

Simplicity Sickle bar type #1 with no cable lift.

Thank you for any suggestions!

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GardenTrACtorguy

I know the bolt I am shearing. When it shears I know it is the bolt because the bar swings back and keeps running instead of detentioning the belt.

I want to know why the bolt shears instead of tripping the spring trip.

(Would I need a heaver bolt?)

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PhanDad

GardenTrACtorguy,

BLT's trying to help you. YOU know the bolt that is shearing, but we don't. I know nothing about sickle bars but I bet it has more than one bolt.

If you look at the IPL and identify the specific bolt that's breaking, then folks can help.

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GardenTrACtorguy
Originally posted by fishnwiz

WELCOME TO THE SITE JASON!! Good to have another "Next generation" of tractor collectors in the club!Thank you! This site is where I got a lot of info when I got my first tractor.

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rokon2813

I would start by taking the spring off for the trip and see if it actually pivots and is not froze up, then I would have to wonder if the spring is too strong.

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GardenTrACtorguy

Ok I'll have to take a look at that.(The spring looks original with orange paint still on it)

I really want to try to get this fixed because I have already sheared two bolts just mowing(not hitting anything)

If it wouldn't be that would I need a stronger bolt?

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PhanDad

The IPL is the illustrated parts list. It's in the back of the manual BLT suggested you download. To download the manual, use the 4th sticky post down from the top of the "Talking Tractors" forum. On the Simplicity Mfg page, choose the "Simplicity Tractor" link and enter the mfg number BLT listed. Even though it's only 6 digits, it will work.Here are pages 9 and 13 from the manual, I would think the bolt you're having an issue with would be on one of those pages:

Sickle_Pg9.JPG

Sickle_Pg13.JPG

Sickle_Pg9.JPG.b734d9ecba4be90a48e93517346df480.JPG

Sickle_Pg13.JPG.00249e606b943080eb790fdccb3ba5c4.JPG

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GardenTrACtorguy

The bolt looks like it is by the arm (Left side of arm) that is attached to the sickle section and also drives the sections.

On the pictures the bolt goes in the hole where numbers 40 and 39 are.(Sickle Group NO 210)(Top pic)

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Brettw

#'s 39 & 40 are a lock washer and nut. #38 is the bolt you are refering to, if that is the hole you are speaking of. Now, if I knew more about the sickle I could help you with part #38, said bolt, that continues to fail. Goo luck young man, and welcome to the club! I am quite certain you will find all the help you need, right here.

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GardenTrACtorguy

Thank you for all of the help BLT and all of the others! This site is a great thing to have if you want to learn about these amazing machines.

Today I put in a shorter bolt (one I put in too long) and found another bolt that was loose by that bolt. All of this has stiffened up the bar. I have yet to try it after tighting everything.

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Talntedmrgreen

38 isn't a pivot point of any kind, so I'm wondering if it was simply failing due to vibration, or being impacted if it was too long and protruding.

WELCOME! :J

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Simplicity7013H

Welcome to the club! I don't know much about sickle bars so I can't really help you but just wanted to say welcome to the club:J It is neat to see someone my age that's also into garden tractors. dOd

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GardenTrACtorguy
quote:Originally posted by tadams

What speed are you running the engine. You might be running the sickle too fast.


id="quote">
id="quote">I usually run it about 1/4 throttle in 2 gear.

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MrSteele

Looks like bolt #41, also goes through a spring, #37, on the opposite side of the bracket. If that is missing, there could be a problem, as well. Before you go to a stronger bolt, please find what is causing the shearing if your bolt. A stronger bolt, while being less prone to shearing, may cause another problem somewhere else, that cannot be easily repaired. Shear bolts are there for a reason, to protect the rest of the system. I also know little of these sickle mowers, and welcome to the group. Someone here may know what your problem is

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CarlH

Some of those bolts are plow bolts. A plow bolt is flat headed with a tapered/square shank. Not using the proper sized plow bolt can also be a problem. Also make sure the proper washer stack is used so there is access to tighten ALL the bolts.

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GardenTrACtorguy

I tightened plow bolt NO 37 38. The thing is, is that there is no bolt at that hole by 41 and 40 on the parts diagram. There are washers shown on the diagram as 37.

The first bolt I sheared had some orange paint on it like it was supposed to be there.

I ran the bar today and seemed like tightening the bolts stiffened up the bar.

I still do not know why the bolt would be shearing. Maybe there's something missing that would give the bar more strength?

Is there a way I could post pictures?

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CarlH

#37 is the washer stack. IIRC, #38 was the plow bolt that was a bear to install and it was several YEARS of regularly tightening it before I realized that I was using a too small DIAMETER plow bolt. When I got the correct one installed, I haven't had to retighten it. Before I got the correct one installed, I had to regularly retighten it since there was small but noticeable rotational movement of the sickle bar after use. I suspect that if it weren't retightened it would have sheared since it would allow some movement of the sickle bar relative to bracket # 44.

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dentwizz

Hadnt thought of a plow bolt for that. A couple gopher hole hits made me replace them this year but I replaced them with grade 8 fine thread with loctite. Hasn't come loose since. Might look into the plow bolts when I teardown to rebuild the driver though.

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