B112_son 14 Posted August 10, 2016 I have a prestige with 23hp command I bought last spring. Ever since I have been chasing little issues. First off I have always thought it was lacking power. The engines now has just over 700 hours on it. I bought it with 630 hours. When I purchased it I did an oil change, new plugs, filters, etc. This spring the gasket between the breather and valve cover, which is on the right side of the engine if sitting on the tractor, went bad and oil was everywhere. Replaced the gasket, cleaned all of the oil out that was on the engine, and things seemed better. Thought about replacing the breather but after things seemed better didn't see the need. I have still been dripping oil ever since, even though I cleaned it all. A couple of weeks ago things seemed not right again so I went ahead and did an oil and filter change with new plugs. The plug on the right side was fouled. Things have been better for a few weeks, then tonight sounds like running on cylinder again. Stopped, pulled the plug on the right side and very wet with gas, so I am guessing not firing all the time. Sorry for the long post just wanted to give as much history as possible. My though, because of the leaking oil, is I have bad head gasket on that side. This causing the oil leak, and the lack of power, lack of combustion on that cylinder. So first off do you think I am on the right track? If I need to replace the head gasket I will go ahead and replace the breather just be sure it didn't lead to the problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruker 2 Posted August 10, 2016 Sure sounds like it could be a head gasket. They're not that hard to replace. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B112_son 14 Posted August 10, 2016 Do I need to pull the engine in order to do so or can I get to it without doing so? Also, am I going to cause any further damage running the engine as is? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RayS 79 Posted August 11, 2016 You won`t have to pull the motor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bruker 2 Posted August 11, 2016 It took me longer to get all the tin out of the way than to actually replace the gasket... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B112_son 14 Posted August 11, 2016 Thanks for the help guys. Sounds like I need to get some parts and a repair manual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RayS 79 Posted August 11, 2016 Replace the head bolts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B112_son 14 Posted August 11, 2016 Thanks Ray. Anything else I need to do while I'm in there? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhanDad 3,616 Posted August 11, 2016 You should be able to get a service manual for your engine here: http://www.kohlerengines.com/manuals/landing.htm Pretty sure that's where I got the Kohler Service Manual for my horizontal shaft CH18 engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lugnard 73 Posted August 12, 2016 Check the head to see if it is warped. They have a habit of this from what I have gathered. Mine was on a 20 hp command. Just check it with a good straight edge and feeler gauges. Or hold it up to light with a straight edge. Mine was out about .005 I flattened it on my cast iron table saw top with a full piece of sand paper and carefully sliding it back and forth with just the weight of the head doing the sanding while rotating it with every 3rd or 4th stroke. Got it to about .0015 and called it good. Now if you have a granite surface plate...much better!! Helps to put dye on the head so you can watch your progress. A black sharpie might work as well. As for pulling the motor as long as you can get the blower housing away from the flywheel enough to remove the intake manifold bolts your good. However its not a bad idea to replace the crankshaft seals. Mine were leaking and brittle but with 1400 hours. Harry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B112_son 14 Posted September 1, 2016 So I finally got time to work on this head gasket and while putting back together I broke a head bolt. This engine uses studs with nuts. I was using a torque wrench and following the torque specs 315 in/lb. before it clicked it snapped. So anyone got any good way of getting the stud out? Other than pb blaster and vise grip? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike_H 92 Posted September 1, 2016 Is there enough stud left to thread two nuts on? You can jam them together, and use the bottom one to try and turn the stud out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B112_son 14 Posted September 1, 2016 Tried the two nuts. Luckily after a lot pb blaster and patience with vise grips its out. Thanks for the reply Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B112_son 14 Posted September 3, 2016 Looking for a little more help. I got everything put back together but does any one have insight on the torque spec for the valves? I'm downloading manual as well Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B112_son 14 Posted September 5, 2016 So in my previous post valves would be the wrong term. I'm looking for a torque spec for the bolts that hold the rocker arm and push rods in place. I've gone through the manual but did not see anything. I put everything back together and just ran bolts down snug and its seems to be running fine but wanted make sure they didn't back themselves out. Thanks for any help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B112_son 14 Posted September 5, 2016 Never mind after a little closer reading I found it. 160 in/lbs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites